The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Help - I'm in WAY over my head - 1947.1 1-1/2 Ton

I purchased a Craigslist 1947 1-1/2 ton, thinking I was going to apply my extensive 1st year auto shop knowledge, and get it going. Mechanically it is good, but (the real problems) the cab, and fenders have more rust than good metal. On top of that it is an early 1947, so it still has the Art Deco grille. (A lot more expensive...). I have been looking at replacement cabs, because I don't know welding... but don't know whether to look at the 46 or 47.

My mom is ready to string me up because this "rust bucket" is taking up her driveway...

Batman, your over your head already?? You are supposed to get the truck in hundreds of pieces before that happens!
Can you post some pictures of the rust? I am no rust expert but let the pros here have a look at it before you throw in the towel (upload your pictures to Photobucket or similar and then link to them in your posts-see the bottom left of this page). What are your plans for the truck? If you are not doing a show quality resto, perhaps this is a great opportunity to learn some rust repair/metal work.
I've seen some deco grills on EBay that didn't look to bad price wise although, they weren't perfect either. Again, depends on what you are looking for in a finished product. Keep and eye there and even on Craigslist too. You might get lucky.
Can't do much about Mom and her driveway. Can you get the truck into the yard or back of the house?
Good luck and welcome to the Bolt!

I will try and post pictures tomorrow- I have a grille. I don't need show quality, but I do want a fun head-turner...
I think if I can get the cab off the farme I can get it into the garage. (Currently the cab is 2" higher than the header on the garage).

Photos:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t391zcnkdss2rsl/AAAqjRKaFtUHIzUWenTVexLba?dl=0

That isn't that bad. I've seen a lot worse. The biggest problem is the rot around the seem between the bottom and top halves of the cab. It's definitely going to require some welding and sheet metal work. If you don't have a friend who can do that, you would either have to find another cab or pay to have it fixed.

You do have a project. A good base for a fun and stylish truck. I would encourage shopping for a replacement cab from someones parts truck as you would probably come out better in the long run. You would be able to minimize the serious metal replacement needed on your cab and the associated costs. If you watched, and put out your feelers, I bet you could find a "DRY" replacement cab out in west Texas that will not have the serious amount of rust your current cab has. That is just my 2 cents. Minimize the cost of body work, and keep your project moving so you don't loose interest. :-)

I think I found a 1946 replacement cab on craigslist with ALOT less rust. Will there be an issue interfacing this with the 47 frame?

the 47 1st series was a "leftover" 46, so any "Deco series" cab [41-47.1] will work

Bill

Thanks Bill. I've tried looking everywhere for that, and assumes my cab would be the same as a 46, but I am already in an "assume" mess...

Ive never seen such a rusty art deco truck with such good paint. Were there mice living in it, or was it sitting outside for years without windows?

I would strongly suggest getting an entire parts truck, if you have space.

It came from the Florida panhandle. The Craigslist pictures did an amazing job of hiding the rust... the base of the fenders are completely eaten, and we can't get the passenger door off, because the hinges have rusted to the pins, and the screws are rusted to the point they strip. We hope to be attaching that door with a drill, grinder and hammer this weekend.
I think I will have the new cab in 2 weeks, and then we will cut the bulk of this one off to get to the rusted bold holding it on.
Between now and then I'm going to remove the fenders and running boards
Bloody knuckles, here we come!

PB Blaster or Khrol is your friend. Soak nuts and bolts for a couple of days before you try to remove them. Sometimes heat from a propane torch can be a great help. Tapping things with a hammer can sometimes loosen them up. Slow and steady wins the race.

If you are tearing it down to the frame, I would hit a torch to all of the fasteners/nuts before even attempting disassembly. Once brought up to a nice cherry red, I have never seen a fastener not yield. Remove the fuel tank first before introducing flames.

Have fun and take too many pictures. Tell you mom this is a learning experience.

I'm glad to see your diving in on a project. As others have said, one piece at a time...before you know it you'll have enough pieces completed to make it a driver...
and that drive will become addictive!

But, that is a good thing. There is no substitute for knowledge and experience gained by one's own hands. Keep us posted on your progress. There are plenty of folks who have been there before to calm your fears and guide your progress.

batman,

As for getting it in the garage have you thought about taking the wheels and tires off and setting the drums down on a set of wheel dollies like these?

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-1500-lb-capacity-vehicle-dollies-67338.html

I was there with Mom when I was your age...3 antique cars and a daily driver pickup truck...she was not happy, but she knew it wasn't going to be like that forever...hope your mom see's the good in it all!

Mike B

Thanks for all the ideas and encouragement. Mom is alright now that I'm working on it and it's not just sitting under a tarp.

Batman, I feel your pain, even here in CA we have rust, like when a truck spent 40 years in a vineyard with no windows under the sprinklers..I'm getting a new cab also!
Mike,
I got those very same dollies, I tried to move my COE without the cab on it but with hoist and bed, moved over 2 feet one wheel caught a pebble have the size of a green pea and the dolly bent.
The other version harbor freight has is just as bad, bent them with a 1965 Valiant...maybe I am unlucky