I watched your video & looked at the picture. I would loosely assemble the whole section, then do a shim/tighten/loosen-as-needed job with the whole front end. You may need that gap as it is; you may need it to close; it may need to widen.
Doors and hood need to open & close properly, then address that gap. And you mentioned what was "allowable" in the video. That is up to you. Where are you at in this process? Final assembly? Or do you want this as a test fit?
Brad
(edit- list the make & model in your subject next time so more people will know that you're asking about a '52 3100)
As a rule fit & finish weren't important in that era. You should see some of the gaps on my '38.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
The first thing you need to do is align your hood properly. Do this while the fenders are down and out of the way. An important factor in this process is that the fenders are adjusted to fit the hood, not visa versa. Once your hood is aligned, you need to raise the rear of the fender to remove that gap. Looking at your pictures/video, you may need to make the holes larger so that the fender can come up far enough. I recommend completely removing the bolts attaching the inner fenders to the toeboard and parking brake bracket to aid in moving the fenders with less restriction. These can be easily replaced once you tighten up the fender-to-outer cowl bolts. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
