The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk My 1929 Chevy Truck. I think?

Since it takes 24 hours to get post approved, I'm going to ask several questions in hopes that someone can give me some direction.
First, please understand I am an amateur at this, but I am great in the shop at making things, repairing thing.
I am confident that I can do this, but I need direction.

(1) I'm hoping that someone can verify that this is a 1929 Chevy Flat bed truck. I can't start looking for parts until I confirm the make and model. From what I have read on a site called the "filling station" and using google to look at pictures of different years of Chevy trucks, it appears to be a 1929 International model. There isn't much difference though between the 1929 International model and the 1928 national model and the 1930 Universal model. Since the paint has weathered off the tag on the firewall, I can't tell anything however, the are numbers all over the place and I was wanting to know if any of them would give me clues. There are numbers on the manifold, the block, the rear of the motor, rear end, etc. If they would help to identify it, I would be glad to post pictures on the same link along with the picture of the vehicle.

(2) Ofcourse with any old vehicle, removing bolts is an issue. Can someone make a suggestion for the best solvents to use. Blast, WD40, Naval jelly, Etc. Looks like most of the bolts on the vehicle are common bolts you can get at any hardware store. Do they need to be hardened bolts or does it matter?

(3) There is very little rust on the vehicle. You can wipe a white shirt on it and no rust even comes off. Someone told me that they actually used pure iron mined from the ground so it doesn't rust like the recycled steel of today.
I understand that I have to take it down to the metal before priming it, but should I sand blast it or sand it? There are just a few areas where there is small pitting. Do I need to get all the way down into the pitting?

(4) The wheels are split rim. I have two questions here.
Since the tire are trashed, I could only find one of them that I could determine the tire size. It's a Goodyear 6.50 X 20. Is that the correct size or can I use another size temporarily. don't want to buy new high dollar tires while I am restoring it. I just need some used tires so I can roll it in and out of my shop to work on it.
The second question is: I heard that these SPLIT wheels are called the widow makers because they explode and kill people.
Do I need to be concerned about this or is this an old wives tail.
Do they make solid wheels this size for the future?

(5) Is there a special primer that needs to be used for the frame and a special primer to be used for the body?

I guess that's enough for now. Hope I don't bug anyone too much.
Blessings,
Dave

On question (4) Yes replace the rims. It's VERY hard to find someone to work on thew.

question (2) use your decision making power. On the engine, drive train Yes on the body ect. No

question (3) Ask this on the paint forum.

question (4) Yes replace the rims. It's VERY hard to find someone to work on thew.

We have a fellow that I'm working on his Gallery story now for March. He also has a 1929. I'll clue him in to this thread and see if he can be of some help.

Peggy

I believe a 28 would have a four cylinder motor and a 29 up would have a six. If you can't get your answers here, the folks on the VCCA site can tell you about every detail including the numbers. I am not sure the rims on your truck are the ones that some consider dangerous. I think the more modern multi piece rims are the ones to worry about.

I wouldn't sandblast any sheet metal because it can be warped. I also have not heard about the frame needing special paint.

It sounds like you have a wonderful piece of history there, congratulations. I can't wait to see the photos!

If you want to blast it you might try the newer "Dustless Blasting" technique. Not suppose to warp the metal. Maybe one of our group has used it and can pass on some info. Looks like a real challenge but if you have the time it will provide tons of enjoyment.

Thanks you to everyone that has chimed in. Getting good info thus far.
If I replace the rims to solid rims, do they make them now or do I have to look for antique ones. And what size are they?

Since sand blasting warps the tin, does everyone usually hand sand with sandpaper?

Here is a photo on photobucket.


I added a link to your PB account in your signature line so the images (as you add more ) can follow you around the fourms. ~ Peggy M

Dinodave,
Great find. Restoring it to "as new" condition will be a great project.
Those wheels are typical for the period and are not the "split rim " type that people are anxious to get rid of.
On yours the rim dismounts from the center.
A good media blasting shop can get the majority of the rust off without doing any damage to the metal by using a less aggressive media. Then you can spray a good primer and wet sand it off, repeat until all the pits are filled and the surface is ready for paint. It's a lot of work but you feel really great each time you have a piece finished.
Note, never use spot putty.

I've successfully sandblasted sheetmetal on older vehicles. That included my 29 Ford Tudor. What warps the metal is having the pressure too high, and staying in one spot too long and heating up the metal, allowing the pressure and heat to warp it. You feather blast a small area and go elsewhere, come back to that area later. The curves on those old fenders, aprons, etc. are hard to warp, but if you are not careful you can. The frame, rims, etc. blast away. So, it can be done, take your time, and don't rush it.

Rick

I will update my comments to say that good blasting of sheet metal can be done by people that know what they are doing. I know one member here who had a guy sand blast his cab and warped the metal. that would be heart breaking.

Thank you Peggy.

Is it ok to use bondo in small areas. I used to work in a body shop in the early 70's. I still have my air file.

I actually have an air braid which is a very delicate sand blaster that I use to clean dinosaur bones with. There are several mediums that can be used for delicate stuff. Glass bead, silicate and even baking soda for soft work.

Hey Jim is there a special primer for the chassis? Or just regular primer.

The other fellow with the 29 is going to catch up with you soon. He's getting his shop in order now and wants to touch base when the sun goes down, I think. This will be fun to see what you two learn from each other.

I'm not sure how much different the '29 is from the '30, but I was doing some research for a Tech Tip, and got this data sheet from the GM Heritage Center that has a LOT of info for the 1930 Chevy truck.

Some of the pages are better scanned than others. But it's worth a look-see.

Peg

I did some reading through the spec sheets. It appears that the 1930 is the first year that they came out with brakes on all four wheels. This should be an indicater if it has only rear brakes. Can't wait to check it out to see. Thanks Peg

Dinodave,

Welcome to the Bolt

Before getting to far lets try to ID the year...as Truckerni said it's easy tell the '28 and back and the '29 and up cars and trucks just by looking at the engine. "28 and back are 4-cylinder, '29 and up are all 6-cylinders (until 1955).

You picture only shows the front half of your truck. Does it have Dual Rear Wheels? If so it's a 1930 or newer as they were a standard option starting mid-1930.

The name Capitol, National, International, Universal were all pet names given to the passenger cars. I've never seen it used when talking about trucks. Trucks were always refered to by their Series letters, LQ, LR, LS, NA, MA etc.

Another option for removing the rust is to have your parts dipped in a chemical bath that takes it back to bare metal. Check to see who does it in your local area, here it's called Chem-Strip.

The engine serial number should be located on a machined surface near the distributor and will be machined stamped into the block. The engine casting number will also help ID the year...what's that number?

There are no direct replacement tubeless tires or rims for your 20" tube type tires. Chevrolet first used tubeless tires on the trucks in 1956 and they are mounted on 22.5" rims. Sand blast your rims and paint them and install new tires, flaps and tubes, the rims you have are not the widow makers, but should be mounted by a tire professional if you don't know how to safely handle them.

Check out Coker Tires...

https://www.cokertire.com/firestone-650-20-truck-tread.html

Add some more pictures to the page Peggy set up for you and get all of the engine casting numbers and post them here...we can help!

Mike B

1928 Series LP was the first Chevrolet Truck to have 4-wheel brakes.

Mike B

Looks like everyone has you lined out at the moment. Enjoy your new addiction...i mean "Hobby"

Internationals had flathead engines, Chevy OHV.

Hey Mike,
I have added more pictures to my photobucket of all the numbers I could find in the vehicle.
The tag on the firewall has weathered off all paint, but there is a stamped number on the right bottom corner.
It is: LR 8982
There appears to be a number before the LR, but not sure.
Could be a 5. Check out my photos
There is a number stamped on the block.
It is: TI 91426
The truck doesn't have dual wheels on the back.
It is a six cylinder.

International was a Series name Chevrolet called their 1929 Series AC passenger cars, it has nothing to do with International Harvester.

From the mid 20's to mid-30's Chevrolet used names like Superior, Capitol, National, International, Universal, Independence, Confederate, Eagle and Mercury to discribe the different year/series of cars.

Mike B

Dinodave,

Your Chassis Serial Number 5LR 8982 breaks down as follows;

5 = St Louis Plant
LR = 1930, 1-1/2 ton, 131" wb, first half (LS = second half)
8982 = unit number out of Plant 5

Your engine casting number is for a 1930 engine with a date code of J 9 9;

J = Month (August)(I don't believe they used the letter I)
9 = day
9 = year 1929

Your LR Series truck only had single rear wheels, the second half Series LS were the first to have optional duals.

I learned something new while doing this research, Chevrolet DID use "Universal" as a discription of their trucks on some of their literature. I had always thought that was a car thing only...guess I was wrong

Hope this helps,

Mike B

Now I'm confused. Thats why I need to take this thing through scrutiny.
Heres info from The Filling station that conflicts.
This is for cars and trucks as well.
https://www.fillingstation.com/articles/carnumberplates.htm
My brother in law and Father in Law swear that it is a 1929.
Also, the car museum in syracuse, Kansas which is 15 miles from Holly, Co. has a 29 and says that this one is a 29.

I didn't want to divulge any info to influence anyones opinion so I could get correct info from you guys, (The Pro's)

This link and info says that the Model is an International or a Universal, the series is an AC or AD, it also says that the number 5 is Kansas City plant.
The tech paper that peggy linked me to says that the four wheels with brakes was changed in 1930, but not as an option.

Heres what you said above. Did you just have a typo?

Your engine casting number is for a (1930) engine with a date code of J 9 9;

J = Month (August)(I don't believe they used the letter I)
9 = day
9 = year (1929)

Is it a 29 or 30?

I don't mean to seem so dumb. But I'm not getting it.

There must be subtle differences between the two

Also, the dash in mine doesn't have as complete a dash as the dash and dash gages in the pictures of the 1930 tech sheet that Peggy sent me.

Uhggggg!!!

Early 1930 engine put in a late production 1929?

Dinodave,
This is the interesting part. The research to determine exactly what your antique is and what "original" really is.
Model changes were initiated by headquarters, but the individual factories didn't implement them on a given date. They had different amounts of inventory and always wanted to use up as many of the parts on hand as possible. So one or more models were designated to use the old parts longer. Maybe the old dash boards went to the 1-1/2 tons and the 1 tons got the new, same for doors, axles, etc.
The engine production line would have shut down for a while to retool for a change and may have started up producing months before the model year changed or not.
Lots of research , lots of time, but the answers will come.
Remember, back then they weren't anal on record keeping as they are today.
I have a "1941" Packard 120, the model change came in 1940-1/2.
Since the dealer still had it in stock when the 1941 models came out, he took a hand stamp and changed the ID plate from 40 to 41.

So I suspect that body parts are interchangeable between a 29 and a 30?
They look the same. I can't see any difference.
Mechanical parts probably would be a different story.
I can't see that I'm missing anything mechanical, so at ;east I have something to compare with part numbers.

Wasn't there a Johnny Cash song.
Maybe it's like a 28,29,30,31,32 built one piece at a time. Not a Cadillac though.

I don't have the 1930 Model Year Introduction Date, but believe it was late '29. Many States used the Calendar year as the year they put on the title regardless of what the manufacturer says, so a 1930 model sold in 1929 could be titled as a 1929. What's your title say?



The Filling Station is only giving part of the story. The AC & AD Models are passenger cars and 1/2 ton trucks. The 1-1/2 ton trucks in 1929 are Series "LQ" and in 1930 they are "LR" with two wheel brakes and "LS" with 4 wheel brakes.



4 wheel brakes was a mid year change and was not an option.



Nope it's not a typo, you have a 1930 model year engine that was cast in 1929. They did use "I" (eye) so the letter J = October.



Are the pictures of a Series LR or LS?

Mike B

It's an LR I guess. Thats what the plate says.
When he bought it, he said it was purchased as a 1929.
My brother in law has been going through paper work to try to find the original stuff.
I have the last lisence plate on it from 1947.
Registered in Hamilton county Kansas.
Would the DMV have records this old?

I'd be very surprised if your DMV has any info on a truck that was last registered almost 70 years ago.

We know the trucks a 1930 model year, what's the year on the title?

Mike B

My brother in law said the old title said 1929. But he has not been able to find the title since they cleaned out the farm house a couple of years ago.
We may have to file for a abandoned vehicle title or something like that.
Are there other ways to get a title.
I did an abandoned vehicle title years ago on a 62 chevy that was abandoned on curb in Dallas Texas. It took about 90 days and about $375.00 to get it.

Not that you need more to read or research, but I had to link to The Filling Station for something, and I saw this that may be of help.

Chevrolet Service News. The article says it is info sent to Chevy dealers for 1927 model years and on. There is a link where you can order them but perhaps the GM Heritage Center can help you with that. We have called them in the past (like 8-10 years ago) and they were very nice. Worth a try.

Peg

Another source to try: ATHS in Kansas City. One year at our Reunion, we visited their headquarters. They have a lot of information and in the past few years have been digitizing it. At the time of our visit, they told us if you were looking for specific information, just give them a call.

There are a few ATHS members on the site (including Mike B and us) so if they only release the information to a member, let us know. We'll see what we can do to help.

Last one. Here are 12 issues for 1929 for sale on eBay, $20 plus shipping. Maybe someone in here has seen these Service News and know if they are really worth it.

Peg

The Chevrolet Service News monthly publications are a great supplement to the shop manuals. They are 75% car and 25% truck, but back then the car engine was the truck engine also. Diffinitely worth getting!

Just ask for a "Lost Title" and for a small fee they will send you a copy. Then just go through the normal process to transfer it to you as a family member.

Mike B