The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed S-Link Tailgate Chain Eliminator

Hello fellow Stovebolters.  I have something I’ve been working on for awhile, and in an effort to "create some buzz," I contacted John and Peggy Milliman and they agreed to let me use you guys and Stovebolt to give this a roadtest.

I call my idea the “S-Link Tailgate Chain Eliminator” and I'm inviting everyone to be part of a Focus Group to evaluate the product. 

First off, I know there are those purists among us who wouldn’t think for one second about deviating from the manufacturer’s original design. "Keep it stock!  Keep the chains!"

On the other hand,  some wouldn’t hesitate when it comes to modifying an old car or truck:  in the interest of cost, personal taste, parts availability etc.. 

(Not debating the “stock or not” argument. Just saying. )

I just want to introduce another option for those who would rather simply not use tailgate chains and to see if there might be a market for another approach. 

The vendors have numerous ways to eliminate the chains and if you’re interested you can go check out those options. Personally, I didn’t like what I found. I didn’t want to drill additional holes thru the face panels of the tailgate or bedsides.  I didn't want to do any bodywork to my freshly painted bed or tailgate.  I wanted to keep the panels as clean as possible, both closed and open.

So I came up with the “S-Link Tailgate Chain Eliminator” (SLTCE) as my answer to the age old chain dilemma.  Now I’m asking for your opinions, ideas, and feedback.

The original SLTCE, as seen in the link, is on my 1948 Chevy (please note that the bed and tailgate on my truck are actually from an ’87 Stepside; 1954 thru 1987 tailgates are the same).  I’ve made six more of these, all for GM Stepsides, and every time I build one I make improvements. Those other six are available for evaluation or possible sale.

Now, I’m absolutely certain that many of you, if you're inclined, will be able to clone this item from the pictures.  From watching the forums, I’ve found that many of you guys have tremendous fabricating skills and backgrounds and knowledge:  would any of you have an interest in helping me produce this item (if it comes to that)?  Do you own or work for a shop that would be interested in production of this SLTCE?  Preferably in the St. Louis area? Do you see any problems with the design?  Do you have any ideas for improvements?  Ford? Dodge?

If you can't or don't want to build one yourself, would you want to purchase one?  Let me know what you think it’s worth? From my limited production efforts, I can tell you that it takes about $30 in materials and 4-5 hours of labor to make each unit. If you really want one,  send me a PM and I'll put you on a list and contact you if this Item takes off. We’ll give Stovebolters a break. 

Do any of  you have any connections or work with the vendors?  I’ve pitched this product to some of the vendors and received some positive interest, but I need to determine if I should take the plunge and make a batch. How many? 

I’m hoping that from your feedback,  I’ll be able to determine what the market might be or if there even is a market.  Some of you guys have your own websites for marketing different items:  care to take on another? 

Guys, I’m not a businessman.  I don’t have a website (should I have one?). I’m a retired guy with a small workshop and an idea. So I welcome your thoughts and am asking for your help.  Please be a part of this Focus Group and put your thoughts or questions here.  I don't have any reservations about answering your questions in the open Forums, but, if you’d rather send me a PM, that’s great also.

I’d like to thank Stovebolt for letting me use the site, and hopefully this item catches on so I can return the favor.

Check out the Album:  S-Link Tailgate Chain Eliminator

I really look forward to hearing from you.

Regards, 
Dave
(Flatblu4748)
2-19-16

Stovebolt.com

Looks interesting, Dave. Would it work on a '47 tailgate and box? Thanks for sharing.

Nice bit of engineering. Are you selling these? Let me go look at my truck...

Rusty/Julian: thanks for the response. Rusty, is your 47 an Advanced Design truck? I believe there were 1st series and 2nd series body styles in 1947? I've made 6 of these so far for 54 thru 87 tailgates (50 7/8") and from this post I am looking for feedback as to the viability of making more, for other years. I have the dimensions (49 3/4") to make a batch for the 48 thru 53 tailgates. Rusty, I'm fairly certain the design could be made to work on most tailgates but it is dimension specific. How wide is your tailgate? If it's 49 3/4" my plans would work for your truck. Julian, is this for your 1952 3600? Again I'm looking for feedback....I haven't sold any yet but would like to, what do you think it's worth? If you haven't read my post above, please do, I like you guys to be a part/start of this Focus Group to evaluate my idea. (Or send me a PM).

Hi, Dave, Nice truck. That chain eliminator sure cleans up the back end. I hope you start selling them. I don't think I could make one or suggest how you could improve on it.

I strongly suggest setting up an LLC.
Prior to anything else.

Brad

Dave,

I have a 49 3100 and I must say I like your idea of removing the chains and going with something much cleaner.

How do you keep the bar which is inside the tailgate from vibrating out when your going down the road? I am interested to see how it would work on a 48-53 tailgate because the tailgate mounts inside the frame of the box and it appears your bars would get in the way of it closing.

Kudos to you for taking an idea and making it come alive. I like this idea, not having to drill/cut/grind on a perfectly good tailgate.

Good luck!

Adam

Hi Dave,

That's an impressive idea and as previously stated, definitely cleans up the tailgate.

How have the springs you are using held-up so far? I'm sure it's a balancing act, not too light, but not too heavy. Just wondering.....

I note that you've placed a cap on the end of the s-link that stows against the back of the box to prevent scuffing. Are there other scuff issues such as where the J hook rotates around the top edge of the tailgate?

I like the way the assembly stows in the tube on the tailgate. Is there any issue with moisture getting in there? Perhaps a seal of some kind would prevent this from occurring. Rust and corrosion would be a long-term concern.

I would also like to hear your thoughts on the 1947-1953 AD application. Thanks for putting this idea out here for some discussion. I'm sure other Stovebolters will chime in as time goes on.

Thanks again,

Adam: thanks for your comments! In response to your question about the assembly "vibrating out when your going down the road?" The cylinder can't move once its installed. The vehicle owner uses the Template to manufacture the keyhole in the tailgate endcap (both sides). Thru that Keyhole you install the cylinder aligning the locator such that it slides thru the small opening of the keyhole and then you rotate the whole cylinder so that the machine screw is inserted thru the singular hole "C" from the template to the now reindexed locator (both ends) Machine Screw and Locator. The whole unit is now effectively locked in place and can't move. Also, the J-hooks are stored inside the cylinder when the gate is closed due to the design of the endcap being recessed 1/2" on the 47-53 AD's. The notch on the J-Hook seats into the saddle at the bottom of the small opening of the keyhole.

Hey Andy, thanks for the questions. Those internal coil springs are holding up well (based on my personal experience) as they do not have to exert much force to eject the articulated member and J-Hook (only needs to pop out the whole assembly maybe 6-12"). I experimented with various springs before I came across the final version. Plus I've got the internals lubricated w white lithium grease to help in the ejection (which somewhat addresses the corrosion issue). Moisture intrusion, and dirt, are part of the game, but with the tailgate closed there is only maybe an 1/8" gap between the bedside and the tailgate for water to pass thru. I've designed the cylinder so that should water get in it isn't trapped and can drain thru the slot which is at the 6:00 position and is also the pocket for the stored J-Hook. Plus the whole thing is held in by the 2 machine screws so it's easy to service. I can readily adapt this to the 47-53 AD's and your input is helping me to decide if I should make a batch for that generation truck. I've made up a mock-up board where I can repeatedly and accurately reproduce the dimensions; and there's only a 1 1/8" difference between the the 54+ tailgates and the 47-53 AD tailgates. That little plastic cap on the S-Link was an after thought and probably over-kill/not necessary as I've found the block magnet keeps the S-Link from dancing around when the gate is closed (no scuffing). The 47-53 AD magnetic arrangement is even less obvious and more stable, considering the 90 degree version of the S-Link.

That is some very innovative thinking. Every time I think of something someone always critiques it in a way that is not what I want to hear. Now I'm doing it.
There are kits to install the more modern bar links to the tailgate or DIY from a donor. I think if I did anything, I would do that or the uber modern sheathed cable.
Your "S" hook and magnet idea would be great for the above.
I do say the no damage installation is a big plus.
When you lift the tailgate some in order to hook the final side or when you are closing it, and you lift too far, would the opposite link pair unlatch and fall?

If you send an email to Classic Trucks Mag or other mags, they may ask for an article. I did that and it got published. You fill out a few forms, submit it in the way and format they want and they pay you. I suggest a cool website and social media exposure also. Mine was an idea that anyone could do. They like reader ideas. Not sure if you approach it like a product it would be welcomed without purchasing ad space or something. Be careful there. I don't think I have never seen these mags showing an install on a product that the supplier was not an advertiser. Not sure about that.

Bartomos, I know what you're saying about the criticism, but that's the nature of my request: I want you guys to be a focus group for this post....I value the input either way, good OR bad. It sounds like you've considered the "the more modern bar links to the tailgate or DIY from a donor.... or the uber modern sheathed cable." I considered that, too, but once I realized I'd have to slice a big chunk out of the vertical edge of either side of the tailgate, cutting out the pinch weld and rewelding it back together to re-establish it's integrity, just so I could build a relief to hide those cables or bar links, and you'd still have to build in a way to keep the gate closed, well.....it seemed this S-Link idea was a much better, painless option, or at least different/unique. To address your question (good question!) about the opening/closing technique: no, the first side doesn't unlatch, as gravity causes that already latched side to pivot down as you address the second side you're securing. I always keep an eye on that first side that I latched, tho, and make a point to not lift the gate too far as I latch the second side. It has never been a problem, but I understand your point.
Good idea too about getting some truck magazine involved! Maybe I'll drop them a line....or maybe they cruise Stovebolt and they'll see this and they'll contact me ? Bartomos, what did you come up with and get published?
Thanks,
Dave

It's Bartamos not BartOmos. I wrote about installing a wind up spare tire unit under a 55-59 Panel or suburban. It was in Custom Classic Trucks, no longer published. Only Classic Trucks is published.
http://www.hotrod.com/search/?q=spare%20tire
First one, 25 photos.

Hi, Dave. My '47 is an AD. The tailgate is 49 and 3/4 inches although the latching system is different than what is shown in your pics.

Bartamos: I loved the article...in fact I remember reading it when it first came out. I especially liked the way you used the four-pin trailer connector as a cover for the crank. Very clever, well done! I'm using a version of the old original spare tire carrier on my 48 and the way I had to set it up will be problematic if/when I have to access the spare. Your arrangement is pretty cool, and looks so easy to use!

Rusty: so yours is an AD with a 49 3/4"tailgate...are you happy with the chains or are you looking to upgrade? You know, another thought came to mind....my setup will only work if the top roll of that tailgate is totally straight with no dents or body work covering up any dents. How is your tailgate? Would it be a candidate?

I just saw that a new guy made a comment, William Vincent. Welcome to the site, William, and thanks for the compliment. Do you have an old Stovebolt? And I see you're from St. Charles, Mo?! We might be neighbors? I'm in St. Peters.....

The tailgate is a new repro but I don't know what the difference is between the widths of a '47 vs a '48 vs a '49. Chains are ok, but always interested in improvements.

Rusty: the 1947 thru 53 AD tailgates are the same at 49 3/4" wide and then the 1954 thru 1987 tailgates are 50 7/8" wide. If I make any more of these I'm thinking I'd make a batch of 6 at the same time, for the 47-53 AD. Interested? I'm not going to pull the trigger on making these unless I get additional input/"orders". And then there is the pricing. Thoughts? Anybody? Earlier I stated it takes me about 4-5 hrs to make one and I have around $30 in materials in each one. Any input?
Thanks, Dave

Introductory offering $89.50 +/-, free shipping. See what happens. The no.1 task for any invention for sale is reduce the cost of production. Make parts the same on both ends, you did that. Use stock sizes, switch to aluminum if cheaper or easier to machine, reduce number of parts, add buyer work content, purchase parts/material in volume. Cut many parts at once, make jigs, no measuring, coupons, put an ad in Stovebolt like Deve did. Write to "Sharks". Just thoughts, not expert advice. They will sell, but not like hot cakes. It's a neat, novel, easy DIY and hopefully affordable Custom upgrade. Make sure the name/phrases you choose self identifies the part. Tailgate Chain Eliminator is great. "Hidden Tailgate Support." "Easy Install".

NEW! is the number one word recommended in advertising.

I'm not your Daddy but don't get too invested yet. If it only takes 4 hrs, you can make to order for now. Don't need big inventory of units or material, yet. You will get very fast and efficient at making them. Find some perfect size cardboard tubes at a carpet store. Find a jar cap that fits the ends. Backwards, inside. Use USPS online printed labels, saves money, they pick up for FREE. They are the cheapest way to ship for now, it does change from time to time to FedEx, never UPS.
Good luck Dave.

Thanks, Dave. But as with Deve's electronic ignition system, I'm in the 'wait and see what the Canadian dollar does' mode. Right now it's costing a buck forty C$ for one US$. Sorry I can't commit right now but I'll check in with you later. Thanks.

Rusty, yes I understand. A friend of mine just flew up your way to start construction on doubling the size of his cabin in Ontario....because of the exchange rate. Keep in touch! Thanks, Dave

Bartamos; Terrific suggestions....what I was hoping for! You hit on some things I hadn't thought about. Thank you. And you're right, I'm not all in yet as I'm still hoping for some additional feedback from the Stovebolt community. I'm going to check on shipping thru USPS as UPS already gave me a quote of around 25-$30 depending on destination. Price-wise we're in the same wheelhouse but I'm thinking $99.99. The last batch I made I did 5 at once and at that same time I set up a jig/mock-up board to standardize my dimensions.....and yes the product evolved as I got more efficient with every step. Let's see if the group has any more input.
Thanks a ton, Bartamos!
Dave

Surely with just .562 per side difference between 47-53 and 54-87 you could design one fits all. If the only difference is length and key hole orientation, I can see a way.

Bartamos: Other than the length there are some minor differences, but nothing really that changes the manufacturing aspect. The internals are almost the same, but the J-hook is also a different length; the location of the notch in the J-hook is further outboard; the S-link is different; the magnet will be flatter, the template is different. Just little differences, but easy to compensate for. And I'm not thinking beyond these two models. Something like Ford or Dodge would be waaaaaay down the road, not even on the radar right now, but feasible. Thanks for your input.
Dave

Is the center piece fastened to the tube using that socket head cap screw?

Bartamos: yes the cap screw retains that center plug; that plug acts as a backstop for the springs and keeps everything contained. First design plug was steel round stock; newer design is now a hollow plastic tube, but still retained w a 1/4" socket head and nyloc.

Where is the head of that screw, where is the nut, Picture? What is the opening for in the middle? I have a big suggestion but need to know the assembly procedure. Why is tube double wall?

Bartamos, the new plug is as per this picture. New version hollow palstic plug. It's the same length as the steel one and is capped at the ends. It's easier to make, lighter than the steel, won't rust, and I don't have to thread it. The cylinder/tube is double walled at the ends with a 1" internal shoulder so that the 1" external shoulder on the piston can't go past that point and slide out of the end of the cylinder (keeps everything contained within the cylinder when deployed).
Dave

What does the backside of that picture look like? Anything sticking out of tube? What is the screw screwed into without something sticking out of tube on the back side? I guess I'm seeing the screw head in the plastic counterbore?

regardless of what your plans are protect yourself. Some local vendor/American will steal your idea, have a cheap version made overseas and make money off your idea and hard work.. and the thoughts of that happening to you irrate me....spend a few bucks for legal consultation and at the very least mail your self a set of plans/prints by certfied mail and don't open it. Just sayin......

Dave,
I love the idea. There was an article this month in CT on folding metal supports and its a lot of cut and weld. The chains have to go but I want something near bolt-in and this is promising. But...
I don't care for the dangling S when the gate is up any more than chains. I want a clean look and I plan on using the hidden retractable pins that are available and easy to install. So how to hold the gate up? Still looking.
Can you make the hidden J hook Long enough to pull out and hook to the loop in one piece, eliminating the second S link? Now that I would buy!

Bartomos: the 1/4" socket head comes in from the bottom and the head sits outside of the cylinder...you can see the 1/4" nyloc nut sitting down inside the recess of the hollow plastic plug.

Achipmunk: thanks for the advice: I already have a Provisional Patent (#62,247,137) for this project thru the US Patent Trademark Office.

Dave

Sent you PM

NHluvstruck: I saw that CT article you spoke of....wow!! an incredible amount of work!!! Early on I thought about various ways to not have to utilize the S-Link but opted to keep it for numerous reasons. Maybe the S-Link is a tradeoff, but you have to have some way to keep the gate closed. Those "hidden pins" have their drawbacks too and like you said you have to have a way to support the gate when you want it opened anyway. Making the J-hook longer was investigated, but the loop at the end would have to be totally changed and then I have an issue with a way to store the J-hook without compromising its integrity. This is still a work in progress...
Thanks for the thoughts, NHluvstruck.

Isn't the "dangling" S held from rattling by the magnet when gate is up? Is rattling what he is asking about?

Bartamos, the way I took Nhluvstruck's comment "don't care for the dangling S when the gate is up any more than chains" I think relates to the look of the link as opposed to the noise or damage the chains would make. I'm sure there are those who would find the look of the exposed S-Link unsatisfactory. This is intended to be a focus group....so bring it on....

I think it looks sort of era correct and looks good. There are many ideas to secure the gate in up position. All of which are more expensive and would kill the deal.

Bartamos, yes I'm OK with the look of the "S-Link". Some will like it, others....not so much. It sure is a conversation starter tho when I show the truck; and when I demonstrate opening the tailgate and deploy those J-Hooks....well, you wouldn't believe the surprised expressions I see and the positive comments I get!!!