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#1151507 02/22/2016 2:49 PM
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A few years ago, after I rebuilt my carb and ran it for awhile I saw a residue building up in the float bowl. I heard here that it could be because of the alcohol in gas reacting with metal in the float body. Presumably,the carb body was coated at the factory but this coating has long since worn or eaten away.On this presumption,I started running only alcohol free gas in my engine.
Recently I had no alcohol free gas so I filled it up with some 87 octane with methanol 10 % from the local gas station and my truck ran better. It has more pep.The alcohol free stuff is higher octane and generally used for aircraft engines.I want to run regular gas in this truck.

I don't want to keep cleaning this carburetor so I'm thinking of replacing it with another newer carb.
What I have now is a rochester one barrel with manual choke. What carb will fill my needs?---Jack

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Jack, I think that I have the same carb as you...Rochester Model B manual choke...on my '57 with a 235. I had the same issue with sediment and discovered that it was rust in my gas tank getting past the fuel filter. I had to end up replacing my gas tank.

I rebuilt my carb a couple years ago with a kit from Mike's (www.carburetor-parts.com) that has parts that are ethanol compatible.

I always buy ethanol mix and have not had any problems since I replaced the gas tank and rebuilt the carb.

Matt

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I explored this pretty thoroughly back then. I cleaned my tank,replaced the lines and replaced the filters.Put in a new pump and rebuilt the carb. The sediment showed up after all this,but only in the carb. That's when I came to the conclusion that it was being produced in the carb.---Jack

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Methanol and ethanol are very different, not only regarding octane and jetting but methanol is far more corrosive.

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I'm not sure which it is. What I am referring to is the stuff that is added to all our gasoline at the pump.

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Originally Posted by CJSTP
I'm not sure which it is. What I am referring to is the stuff that is added to all our gasoline at the pump.

If it's coming out of the same pump everyone else is getting their gas... why aren't they all having this same problem?


Give me ambiguity
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My carburetor is wore out. All I'm asking for is advice on what will replace it.I had this same debate two years ago and figured out that it was the carburetor.

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A Carter 3211s looks to be a viable option : here is carbking's list.

Brad


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Give me ambiguity
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I have never heard of a carburetor suddenly losing its "protective coating" and begin dissolving like an Alka Seltzer due to ethanol. Can you cite your source for this phenomenon?
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1033001/1.html
That is the url of a thread from 5/14 (you contributed to it 52 carl)After that thread I started using alcohol free gas. The crud never came back but otherwise I have no idea if the theory is correct. I think I may just start running regular gas until the truck stalls out (or doesn't). It is easier than trying to wade through all the differing opinions. That particular post ran eight pages.---Jack

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OK... So between a Carter and a Zenith, any questions on the potential replacement carburetor?

Just run regular gas if you want to; if you ever decide to change the carburetor I'd suggest a complete fuel system overhaul to include all NEW parts- gas tank, fuel lines, fuel filter, fittings, and carburetor. This will provide a control of sorts to help you make your own determination whether, or whether not, anything at all is going on with the fuel you are using. New parts are not the same as the "cleaning & clearing" from before. (yes, I just re-read all eight pages you linked to)

Drive it & run it often! wink
That is my opinion on how to make every type of engine happy.

Brad


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I've run a holly/weber progressive 2 barrel from Langdon's Stovebolt on mine without any problems. It gets a little better mileage than the original but lacks a little in mid range power. Have also run a later Rochester Monojet carb, runs good bolt on and go.


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If I was to look for a replacement I would want something that wouldn't be too difficult to adapt to my 51 3100 linkage and need to know whether or not I would need a new air filter to fit the new carb.I currently have an oilbath.When they put the 59 motor in my truck they never got the return spring to work right and I had to bend the linkage a little to get it to work right.
One other thing,I would not want an automatic choke.---thanks---Jack

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Originally Posted by CJSTP
If I was to look for a replacement I would want something that wouldn't be too difficult to adapt to my 51 3100 linkage and need to know whether or not I would need a new air filter to fit the new carb.I currently have an oilbath.When they put the 59 motor in my truck they never got the return spring to work right and I had to bend the linkage a little to get it to work right.
One other thing,I would not want an automatic choke.---thanks---Jack

An absolute "bolt-on-swap" may not be possible.

Carter released 967s as a bolt-on for the 1951 truck with 235.

Carter released 3211s as a bolt-on (with automatic choke) for the 1957-1962 235 engines. If purchased new, the 3211s would have a heat stove included in the box to hook up the automatic choke.

There are some differences in the throttle bodies (both linkage, and connection to manifold) in the 967s and the 3211s.

Thus, some modification is probably going to be necessary.

Since you have the 1959 engine, I would suggest the 3211s, and then either acquire a heat stove and use the auto choke, OR acquire an aftermarket manual choke conversion kit to use on the 3211s. I know Champion, for one, used to make these kits. Do not know what is currently available.

As to the coatings - http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carburetorfinishes.htm

The first time the carb is dipped in carburetor cleaner, the coating is HISTORY!

Jon.


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
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This looks like a good spot for this question and with an expert here a possible answer to the never ending hunt for a good CARB.
Another site touted this as a replacement carb for the 235.
Champion - 53-62 Replacement Carburetor for Holley 1904, (1v), 144, 170, 200, 223 BRAND NEW DESIGNED FOR MODERN FUEL.
Any thoughts or experience with this carb will really be appreciated by all. Ken

I would have posted the site address but that may not be permitted.


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Nuts & Bolts - The original Holleys used on the various Ford engines, like other carbs, came in multiple internal sizes.

The carb used for the 144 and 170 was the smallest venturi. The others used a somewhat larger venturi.

Unless the carb has a variable venturi design, then it may not be optimal for all of the engines listed.

I know of the unit of which you speak, but have not seen one, so I have absolutely no opinion on this one.

I know of other BRAND NEW DESIGNED FOR MODERN FUEL copy carbs, produced in various places in the world, that make wonderful paperweights (until they get dirty). They are also very useful if one has a strong right arm (or left, must be PC) and a rabbit problem in one's garden!

There are plenty of dirty old cores available at swap meets, or available from online vendors, THAT WERE DESIGNED BY ENGINEERS BACK IN THE DAY specifically for a given engine.

These can be rebuilt, and when rebuilt properly, will outperform any of the SHINY new off-shore carbs in all facets except looking shiny!

Jon.


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
The Carburetor Shop
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Thanks for clarifying that Jon. Now I can just go ahead and order that Carter rebuild kit. Wishful thinking only goes so far.
Ken


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This has been ask here (Kurt)#2 https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=811607 and I ask Mike's carb and no real answer has been provided. There is a outside hole in the carb just below the air cleaner neck and it ports directly into and above the choke shaft on both 2100S and 788S carters. It's not a float chamber vent. This allows dirt directly into the carb on both my carbs. What say the King?

I'm thinking I will plug it to find what it does if an answer isn't out there
Ken

https://goo.gl/photos/i4AsDoaNSPjweVKW8



Last edited by Nuts&Bolts; 03/17/2016 4:53 PM.

1951/54
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I have been sold out of the 2100/2101 since the day after Noah landed the Ark, so don't have one to look at.

GUESSING - it appears to be a home-made bowl vent instead of venting the bowl into the air intake. Most of the Carter YF carbs have a 1/4 inch tube coming up into the air intake, and this appears to have been removed and plugged in your picture.

I think I would open the hole into the air intake, and plug the hole to the outside.

Jon.


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
The Carburetor Shop
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Posts: 62
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Thanks Jon for the ideas I will plug it when I get this basket case put together.
Added a few more pics.
It's this way on more than one carb.
I will keep an eye out on Ebay for Noah he shows up from time to time.

Ken

https://goo.gl/photos/i4AsDoaNSPjweVKW8


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