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#1149388 02/10/2016 5:49 AM
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 271
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'Bolter
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Have the engine out of my 54 chevy 3800 as part of a simple frame up rest.

What should I replace while its out and should i do them before or after paint?

I'm thinking:
freeze plugs ( replace before i paint it?)
front and rear crank seals
maybe replace water pump
manifold gasket
any timing gear cover gaskets?

Tj_M #1149400 02/10/2016 12:55 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,189
M
'Bolter
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If you're not taking any of the engine sheet metal off and you don't have any leaks, leave it alone...don't ask for trouble.

I'd think about the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bushing as they are hard to replace items...most other things can be replaced without removing the engine or trans.

If you replace the freeze plugs, check for rust/junk in the bottom of the water jacket while you have it open and make sure the drain cock is clear.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1956 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
1956 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1953 Willys M38A1 Fire Jeep
1978 Jeep CJ-5 Navy Jeep
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Hughesville, MD
Tj_M #1149495 02/10/2016 10:53 PM
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Posts: 271
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'Bolter
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The engine is already out on an engine stand smile

that's why I was thinking of replacing seals and freeze plugs. several of the freeze plugs in particular look distorted and corroded. good point on the drain cock.

I don't have a good way of knowing if there are many leaks ( besides the obvious ones) because I only ran it for 5 or 10 minutes before I pulled it out.

rear main and chain case are definitely leaking I know that much!
Tj

Tj_M #1149542 02/11/2016 3:44 AM
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'Bolter
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Depending on how old it is:

I agree with at least the front seal: pull the balancer to check and see if it needs to be sleeved, replace the front seal at the same time. I wouldn't necessarily open up the front cover unless you have reason to believe there are other issues, or lots of gunk.

Also while it's out:
1) It's easy to roll it over and check the cam lobes for spalling, check tappets before you roll it over - they sometimes go first.
2) If the engine still has babbit rods, it's easier to adjust them while the engine is out.
3) Check the clutch fork and ball for wear - easier to replace while it's out.

I'm certain more experienced folks will provide more advice.

Have fun!

Bill


1947 3100 Advanced Design

Never, never, never, never give up. - Churchill
Tj_M #1149557 02/11/2016 5:43 AM
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'Bolter
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Thanks Bill.

is there anything that holds the balancer on besides being a press fit? wondering how to put it back on securely...

great point on cam check. Don't think it has rabbit rods as it's supposed to be a full oil pressure 54 engine but we'll see!

TJ

Tj_M #1149558 02/11/2016 6:03 AM
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Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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The harmonic balancer is held by "press fit".

All 1954 engines had insert rod bearings.

Tj_M #1149684 02/12/2016 2:40 AM
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Wrench Fetcher
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Don't forget the freeze plug on the back of the engine.

Tj_M #1149699 02/12/2016 3:46 AM
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'Bolter
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So how do you know the balance is on well enough when you put it back on? tap it on with a mallet?

Larry- are you talking between the engine and transmission?

Tj_M #1149704 02/12/2016 3:59 AM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262

Pull it on with the correct tool (a member here rents one), or tap it on with a rubber mallet, or hammer against a piece of wood held against the balancer.

Tj_M #1149716 02/12/2016 5:03 AM
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Renaissance Man
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The method for which the balancer is held in place fascinates me! It appears to be held on by imagination. Millions upon millions of engines over 80-something years are made that way, and I have never heard of one coming off.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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