The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay horn help

anyone know where i can get one of these. i guess its a resistor for horn on 52 chevy 1ton truck Horn

what horn or year/model truck?

I am also looking to repair my horn. It looks like from the picture you are looking for the capacitor. I found this thread in my search and I am planning to try this capacitor in my horn.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=96534

and

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...amp;Main=15284&Words=horn&topic=

It says they used a 56 microfarad 100V capacitor but I saw it referenced somewhere else as a

52 chevy 1 ton truck i seen the thread but where do i buy one

Below are a couple of online places.

Mouser

MCM Electronics

i see but mine has a wire soldered on each end

Understood. What you are looking for is an Axial Capacitor. I did a quick internet search and found a couple but the suppliers wanted to sell in bulk (100 units). The radial ones above meet the electrical specs and are inexpensive. I guess you need to decide if the radial ones will fit your configuration.

i see what your saying, but i dont understand the lines coming out of both ends. do i cut them. on my pic, mine did not have any just for wires to connect. sorry for my lack of knowledge completely on this stuff

Were the wires coming out of your capacitor attached to anything in the horn? Did you cut it out or did it fall out when you opened the horn?

I'm a bit confused.

I re-read the referenced links shown above and they stated the capacitor was .56uF, not 56uF.

I found one here.

Jimbo,

Your capacitor would have originally had leads on each end that wires were soldered to. It looks like the wires on yours have pulled out. You will need to find the two wires on your horn that connect to the capacitor. They should be loose and have blobs of solder on the end where they pulled out of the capacitor. They should be laying right below where you took your capacitor out.

On the new capacitors you can cut the wire leads as short as you want but make sure you leave enough to easily solder to.

Below are a few pictures that a member of the forum (Denny Graham) took or his which are a great reference. I hope he does not mind me posting them.

http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/155174088

http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/155174087

yellowboy thats it exactly. they are soldered to the horn on one end but the other just has a glob of solder. so does this mean i need a lead on both ends of capacitor

No sweat here Jimbo, that's what their posted for.
That's just a tubular metal film capacitor, with a lead coming
out of each end. It sounds like the caps you're looking at
are polarized radial electrolytic types, which is not what
you want.
Antique Electronic Supply out of Tempe, AZ is one who stocks
the metal film type. You won't find a .57uf cap, it's not a
standard rating. A .47uf or .68uf will work just fine, it's
not real critical, neither is the polarity on this type of
capacitor. It may just change the tone a tiny bit. It's
just a function of the charge/discharge time, that is, the
larger cap takes longer to charge up which will lower the
tone the smaller will raise the tone. Also the new caps
will be about 10 times smaller than the old one, better
technology now days.
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-T-630V

dg

thank u guys so much. i am just going from one project to another and getting nothing done.

Always helps to stop and pick one. Make your mind up your going
to get that one completed, then the rest start to fall like
domino's.
Take it from someone with about a hunert different project going
on right now.

dg

thanks denny, appreciate that. by the way, i ordered 2 of those capacitors. i got .68uf

Because you are changing one of the electrical values, you
may have to mess with the screw adjustment to get it to
oscillate at a frequency that gives you a clear tone.
This shouldn't make much difference because the condenser
is there to absorb the spark when the points break. The same
function as the one in your distributor. It also discharges
back thru the coil when the points make so it could change
the tone a bit since a larger charge will make the coil
pull against the spring tension with more force.
If you had several values around .50uf you could operate the
horn to see which one absorbed the most spark and use that
as a guide to the correct value.
Just remember, next to the starter, the horn probably draws
more current than any other component on your truck.
Beep it, don't lean on it.

dg

thanks for all info