The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Are the rear fender rivets recessed on a 1950 3100?

I searched the sight but could'nt find the answer. Purchased aftermarket rear fenders and the rivets above the wheel are recessed and use a hollow rivet. How did the factory do it? Thanks.
Dustin

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...0759/Rear_Fender_Brace_?.html#Post980759

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...rear_fender_brace_rivets.html#Post571709

I actually read both articles linked before and after I posted the question and still don't know if the rivet was recessed.

The simple rivet head is flush to the fender. The fender has nothing but a simple hole in it for the rivet shaft to go through.

Thanks, I will weld the holes shut and drill new ones, and according to a search the holes are 1 1/2 apart. I wonder if the Taiwan guy making the fender said to his coworker "Da merican gone be so [censored] when he rewize his fender not wike wiginal!"

Blue69: as luck should have it I had two old original rear fender braces stashed in my workshop, pictures included. As you can see the spacing is exactly 1.000". I too have reproduction steel rear fenders (Classic Industries) on my 48 and I just measured their spacing and it also is 1.000". I took the easy way out and used button head stainless fasteners, unpainted, as a practical way to address the attachment dilemma. My truck is not original and I'm ok with the occasional questions I get about those screw heads. If anyone needs those 2 braces give me a holler. https://flic.kr/s/aHskt4VSrs

I just removed the fender braces from my rear fenders. The rivets were very low domed head tubular type. I just took a look at McMaster-Carr and couldn't find anything that matched, but I'm sure there are some out there. I restored one of the braces and bought one repop brace from Jim Carter. It was not drilled for the rivets.

Thanks for the correct measurement, that would of been embarrassing to go through the hassle and still be wrong. My plan is to weld, grind, prime, rivet, and paint.

blue69 I ran into the exact same thing. The rear fenders are the last item after a 6 year restoration and I was thinking I'm on easy street now. Paint the fenders and mount them and I'm done. Then when they arrived I see this ridiculous rivet job and I was not a happy camper. Like you I will weld, and fill. and then drill the correct holes and place the correct rivets.

It took about an hour to do both fenders but now I don't trust their black primer so I'm sanding it off like I did the front fenders. It looks a lot better with the correct rivets and really appreciate everyones help with the pics and measurements.

Where did you find the correct rivets?

My late Grandfather's inventory, he bought floor sweepings from an airplane factory. They probably aren't 100% correct but they don't stand out like the others did.

I am going to use machine screws with similar shaped heads and weld in the screw driver holes, then chuck the screw into a drill and use a bench grinder to bring it into the shape of the original rivet heads.
Carl

Another option might be carriage bolts if you can find them with heads the right size, and file/machine off the flats. Or even punch the holes square to fit the flats. They typically have a flat domed head that looks pretty close to the original rivets in shape.

Update. I couldn't find any carriage bolts small enough, so I did weld in the heads of some #10 machine screws, then chucked the screw into a drill and use a bench grinder to bring it into the shape of the original rivet heads. I then finished them smooth on some 220 sand paper while still in the cordless drill.
Carl

Cool. A man after my own heart. If you can't find the actual article, then fab it.

I hear you klansen. It is just this type of gadgetry which makes this hobby enjoyable to me.
Carl