Hello; I have recently re-assembled my 52- 235 out of a Bel-Aire While it was apart I did a thorough clean making sure I had flow through all ports for the oil and cooling system. I also thornily cleaned the oil line running up to the valve train. The motor has been re-assembled and filled with oil. I ran there pump with a drill and cannot get oil to the head. I pulled the plug off the side that would feed the filter and get great oil flow from there. Is it possible the oil bypass valve is sending oil back to the pan rather through the oil system? When I assembled the motor I used Permatex on the gaskets and would rather not start ripping the gaskets apart. if someone could point me the right direction would be appreciated.
It's possible nothing is wrong. One of the purposes of the oil distributor is to block off oil flow to the head until the connecting rods are getting proper oil flow. Once the engine is actually running instead of pressure being supplied by spinning the pump, you will probably see good oil flow to the head. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Thanks Jerry I tried to find something that explains the operation of the distributor. I had thought it opened if there was to much pressure. Once I get a little further and get it off the stand I'll get it running to make sure.
The oil distributor blocks off oil flow to the head until the rods are getting at least 14-15 PSI, which assures proper rod bearing lubrication. Once the rods are well-lubed, then less-critical areas get some oil. Good engineering, IMHO. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Im not sure if it is Canadian. It is from a 52 Bel Aire and has KAQ for the serial number. It has the short rise cover with hydraulic lifters. Actually just found this on another post, looks like a US motor. K = 1952 year A = Passenger model Q = RPO 317 Model 2100 Automatic Transmission Option Tonawanda Plant"
Does it have the oil distributor cover, down low in the middle of the block on the driver's side? If so, my original comment about getting it running before you get terribly concerned still stands. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Does it have the oil distributor cover, down low in the middle of the block on the driver's side? If so, my original comment about getting it running before you get terribly concerned still stands. Jerry
A 1952 KAQ 235 (from Tonawanda, NY) would have the oil distributor on the block under the middle of the exhaust manifold.
The short side cover will mean that the feed to the rocker is from the rear cam bearing feed, not the oil distributor valve. If you look at the oil distributor, you will see there is no little oil line looping out and back into the block.
I have added some pictures of the motor and an oil circuit diagram which I believe is correct and what Truckernix is saying. If the diagram is correct I assume the oils makes its way up through the cam via the main bearing. I assume as the motor heats up and tolerances tighten the oil will make its way up to the valve train?
I think you should be getting oil up there with the drill. If it were me, I would be pulling the tube under the side cover to see if it is getting up there.
Quick question, did you use the original lifters or did you replace them?I had the same problem you had.customer brought new lifters but we're the wrong ones.would get great pressure on the gauge and,nothing to the top end.
I do not know the differences in oil pressure/oiling from the 216/235 prior to 1954 and after 1954, but after 1954, running the drill in the distributor shaft gives you maximum oil pressure and max oil to the rockers all at the same time. That movie is here:
2:43 into it. It is even a rechargeable drill. Someday I plan on getting back to the 216 project and I will know. Others, like Dave (above) know this stuff by heart. You have come to the right place.
I have replaced the hydraulic lifters with the proper matching type. I think I will pull the side cover off today to see if the oil is getting from the cam up to the fitting in the rod case. Ill let you know what I find. Thanks for the advice guys. Also as Fred mentioned there is no small oil line at the oil distribution cover. Mark
I pulled the side cover off and ran the pump again with the oil line disconnected from the fitting to the cam case. The oil did come up to that point but very slowly. Will the volume of oil increase as things heat up and pressure builds up? I'm going to get a piece of clear hose to see just how high the pump is pushing the oil. I pushed some oil through the line tube and it ran through fine.
I guess it depends on how good a job the drill is doing. Is there any way you can hook up an oil pressure gauge? When the oil enters the rocker arm, I don't believe it will fill the tube and run out the holes in the rockers, with the engine sitting static. A good indication would be to see it running out the rocker overflow or from the shaft somewhere.
From what I am hearing, maybe you found the problem. Oil Pump not creating enough pressure? If you are doing this in cold weather, that will have an impact as well. If you are doing this in 70 degrees or more, I would think it would push all the way through the system. Fred is right though. A drill is not necessarily a drill. (meaning no way to gauge drill rpm). Good Luck! You are doing all the right things.
I doubt you can do damage to the engine that way. I am not sure how fast FAST is and how it equates to the RPM seen during normal engine operation, but I run my 18v Milwaukee at its highest setting when I do that. Giver all she's got Captn!
I used to worry about what tool/bit I used to spin the oil pump: bit-fit in the slot, breaking off a tip of the bit, seating the bit into the slot in the pump gear, etc
So, I took the drive gear out of an old distributor and gutted the distributor.
Put the gutted distributor in place, use the correct hex socket, and spin the oil pump using whatever drill suits your fancy.
I'd bet your electric drill has a max speed no higher than 2800 RPM? My electric drills are 600 to 1200 RPM. Air Impact Wrenches can go quite a bit higher RPMs.
This is well within acceptable range for the engine and setting 1 is enough for me to get full oil pressure on the gauge, and full pressure to the rockers on my 1959 235. Setting 2 should have oil squirting out of the rockers quite nicely.
