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Joined: Sep 2010
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L
Wrench Fetcher
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How do you get the proper torque on the manifold of a 235. All I can get my bolts is a 9/16 box end wrench.

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L
'Bolter
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Bill Burmeister
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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First, place your manifold assembly on a flat surface and make sure the mating surface is true/flat from end-to-end and side-to-side. If it is not flat, you need a machine ship to true the mating surface. Then, make sure the alignment rings are not going to prevent a tight fit.

I you do not have a crows foot adapter that works with your torque wrench in those locations, use your box-end wrench from the inside towards the outside:

snug all bolts
then, snugger all bolts
then, tighten all bolts
then, real tighten all bolts

Joined: Dec 2015
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Big Bolt Forum Moderator
Big Bolt Forum Moderator
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If you use a crows-foot, remember that it will throw off your torque a bit because you are adding an inch or so to the overall length of your torque wrench.


Mike
1955 Chevy 6400 ex-flatbed (no bed now!) sold September 2023
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L
Wrench Fetcher
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If I use minimum torque value will that compensate by using the crows foot.

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Big Bolt Forum Moderator
Big Bolt Forum Moderator
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would have to do the math. Depends on the length of the crowfoot and length of your torque wrench. You don't want it too loose and coming off! I would rather do it with a long handled box wrench without the torque wrench than use a crow foot but that is just my opinion.


Mike
1955 Chevy 6400 ex-flatbed (no bed now!) sold September 2023
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J
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Big Bolt Forum Moderator
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cool link!


Mike
1955 Chevy 6400 ex-flatbed (no bed now!) sold September 2023
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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Larry, not saying we shouldn't torque the bolts but if the manifolds are flat and you use a good sequence tightening them a little each time until you get them tight, I think you will be OK. I hate to admit it but I have Never torqued the manifold bolts... I never had a torque wrench when I need it!!!


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L
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Thanks guys. I think I will do it like Mr. Lederman said,snug, snugger, tight, real tight

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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Once all the slack is taken up so the manifolds are snugged up against the head, turn each bolt/nut one flat (1/6 turn) tighter. That's about as accurate as using a torque wrench. I use the same basic procedure when tightening wheel nuts if a torque wrench isn't available.
Jerry


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Originally Posted by tclederman
First, place your manifold assembly on a flat surface and make sure the mating surface is true/flat from end-to-end and side-to-side. If it is not flat, you need a machine ship to true the mating surface. Then, make sure the alignment rings are not going to prevent a tight fit.

I you do not have a crows foot adapter that works with your torque wrench in those locations, use your box-end wrench from the inside towards the outside:

snug all bolts
then, snugger all bolts
then, tighten all bolts
then, real tighten all bolts

But leave the intake-to-exhaust bolts/nuts loose while torqueing the manifolds to the head, correct?

Larry asks a timely question. I need to bolt up my manifolds soon.


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5
Renaissance Man
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Like my grandpa always used to say, "Tighten them up just before they start gettin' looser."
But then he also use to say, "Tighten it as tight as you can, plus 1/4 turn." (I still don't know how you're supposed to do that.)
Grandpa was quite the card, as they used to say.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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D
Shop Shark
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Only 20 ft lbs on the center bolts

30 ft lbs on the outer

Should be able to develop a "feel" for it

If not....mark a point of the hex of one you can get to with a socket and torque wrench. Torque it to 20 ft lbs.

see how much the point of the head turned form the mark.

Use that distance as a guide for the centers.








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