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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,125 Posts1,056,338 Members48,440 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Your links all say that permission is required to view them. However, based on the description, what you have is a situation of an added in line that was installed aftermarket. Usually, those lines are put in to bypass a blocked passage that feeds oil to the rockers. While it really doesn't hurt anything, it's unnecessary if the passages are clear to allow for proper oil flow.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 48 | I'd be curious to hear more about this also. My 58 has a similar oil line going to the head based on your description. I remember reading something somewhere about a head bolt that blocks an oil passage if a certain mismatched year of head and block are used together. The correct head bolt to use has a grove that allows oil to get to the head and if the wrong one is used it blocks that passage. So I was thinking maybe on my setup and perhaps other peoples, a previous owner did this bypass oil line to "fix" the mix match head/block no oil thing. I have not gotten around to figuring that out yet on my truck. I'd like to hear what those who know have to say. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 |
1951 Chevy P/U
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 | Interesting, thanks for the information. I will see if I can identify the head information this weekend. I'd just as soon not have that extra oil line if I did not have too. but I bet you are right in your assessment!
1951 Chevy P/U
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | This is a common fix done by people in a hurry. The cause of it is a blocked internal oil line. Rather than fixing what is broke, they use an alternative route for the oil to reach the head. In a pinch is works fine and people often purchase their trucks thinking that is normal. It's not normal and can be fixed, but it works when its preferred to disassembling parts of the engine to get to the problem. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,809 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,809 | The only engines that have an "oil line" through the block are pre-1954 splash oiler 216's and 235's with the oil distributor on the driver's side of the block. Later model engines have drilled passages in the block which can also clog up and restrict oil flow to the head.
One possible quick fix is to remove the center head bolt on the passenger's side and insert a snug-fitting wooden dowel into the hole after filling the hole with oil. Then smack the top of the dowel HARD with a BFH. Sometimes the hydraulic pressure created by the hammer lick will purge the crud out of the oil passages and restore the flow. I have fixed several slow or no oil flow engines that way. Jerry
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| | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 | Thanks all for the input! I may just remove the bolt and see if it has a hole in it. If it does not, I may just drill it or replace it with one that is pre drilled so I can get rid of the extra oil line. I am assuming that a person can just remove and replace the one bolt without having to retorque the rest us them on these engines?
1951 Chevy P/U
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,281 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,281 | Thanks all for the input! I may just remove the bolt and see if it has a hole in it. If it does not, I may just drill it or replace it with one that is pre drilled so I can get rid of the extra oil line. I am assuming that a person can just remove and replace the one bolt without having to retorque the rest us them on these engines? Are you using '58 or earlier rocker arms and shafts on your '61 block? If not, you do not need that drilled head bolt. That bolt was only used for miss-matched engine assemblies. Your oil blockage needs to be found and cleared. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 | Carl I just looked up my head casting number and it is indeed from an earlier model. A 1956. Thanks
1951 Chevy P/U
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Carl I just looked up my head casting number and it is indeed from an earlier model. A 1956. Thanks The same head casting code was used from 1956-1963 (3836848). What is your block casting code? What are your block and head casting dates? http://www.1954advance-design.com/Web%20images/casting-code-photos/codes-ser-nums.htmlAlso, (as Carl asked) what is the year of the rocker arm assembly, and, maybe more importantly, the style/year of the rocker arm connector/oil-tube ( shown here )? These this get swapped around over the years (unfortunately). | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 | Thanks for the link, that was going to be my next question on identification! I will try to look at this evening. I may try to get a better picture than the one I attached earlier to see if that may help Mark
1951 Chevy P/U
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 |
1951 Chevy P/U
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,281 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,281 | See if you can read the part number on one of the rocker arms. That should lead you to what year your arms are from. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 | Thanks guys, I looked over lunch and discovered several different number stamped on them. 25,40,38 on the face facing the front of the engine. Then on one of them I saw an 8 on the opposite side. I believe that i have the 54 -57 arms/oiling tube as the tube looks "field modified" I am just going to take the front rocker arm off and look at it maybe this weekend. Thanks for all the information Mark
1951 Chevy P/U
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 21 | Ok, I pulled the forward rocker off and the oiling groove is in the center of the rocker. So, correct me if I am wrong, to get rid of the exterior oil line, I will have to have a drilled head bolt along with the oil restricting bushing mentioned in Pre'68 Dave's web page. Thanks
1951 Chevy P/U
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | I would either leave it the way it is or remove the external line and see how much oil you get at the rockers. A 1960 block with centered groove rockers and a pinched off rocker connector should give you to much oil to the top. Being that someone added the external line makes me think that something is plugged in the original oil path, or the wrong lifters were used. To much oil to the top end has not been seen to cause much of a problem, mainly hard to keep the valve cover from leaking.
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