The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine stand tipped over

Well I had my 1961 235 on a cheap stand, just cleaning it up and putting new gaskets on it and some fresh paint.

I had it outside the garage for cleaning, was trying to get it back over the garage lip, and it started to go over and i couldnt save it... Manifolds were off, valve cover and oil pan were on as well. Contact points with the ground were the head along where the intake and exhaust gasket goes (no damage) the stand mount on the back and the from engine mount plate.

Im not seeing any major damage, except the exhaust manifold alignment studs both broke off, and the throttle pivot pin.

I should have another throttle pivot pin/dowel off antoher motor- Anything else i should check out?
Do i need to replace those manifold alignment pins or is that not a big deal?

I hope you replaced the stand!!!!

Can you share which stand you have so others know the chances when using it?

it was a harbor freight 750lb stand- figured it would have been ok if i was careful- got it from a buddy for free - you get what you pay for i guess

http://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-capacity-engine-stand-69887.html

If it was a three wheeler, add a cross bar at the front and make it a 4 wheeler. Probably fine then.

Hate to say it but the 3 wheel ones are the worst. I bought a new 4 wheel one for my 261 and tossed the 3 wheel for the tipping reason. I almost lost my 235 back in the day doing exactly what you were doing.

anyone know if I need to replace those manifold alignment pins? or is it no big deal, just a little harder to align manifold when installing?

it would be best to replace but it should work without them. Did they break off flush with the head, or leave a little bit hanging out? if a little is hanging out, make sure the remainder does not throw off the alignment.

Alignment studs? Sticking out of the head?

Yes, at both ends of the head (for manifold-assembly alignment and assembly "support/assistant").

GMC sixes used bolts at the ends of the heads.

Thanks Tim, didn't remember them on the 61 235 I had. But I don't remember allot of things.

That pin/stud might have been threaded - does anyone know?

If it was threaded, it could have been removed and a bolt could have then been used?

They are threaded.

They are 3/8" coarse.
I would not worry about having them though.
I need to remove the studs on some of the jobs I do as 235 manifolds tend to warp up at the ends. If the intake alignment rings are used the end pins can prevent the manifold from going on.
It is much more important to use the intake rings.

Tim,
It's best to have the end pins there to discourage people from installing cap screws (Some say bolts). The manifolds grow lengthwise w/ heat and must slide along the gasket toward each end. Buick straight Eights are one I remember well during the early '50s. Actually the screws should be tightest near the center of head and gradually less torque on them as you spread toward each end. French locks are excellent for those looser screws near ends. Many manifolds on V8 Chevs are broken because people don't know this and tighten them all the same. Many orig. Chevs came w/ those locks placed over the thick washer. I keep them in stock for my rebuilds. Very important to mill the manifolds while bolted together to ensure no exhaust leakage at head surface. David

I wonder why GMC used bolts on the ends of their old sixes?

I use the studs on my Chevrolet stovebolt engines.

216's used studs with nuts on each end up to 1942.

it is good to remember that most of the engine stands, whether they are a quality brand or HF's best, were designed for v8 engines, not our oblong funny shaped L6's, I have one of the quality brand 3 wheeled stands and I almost lost mine too.

I use a Harbor Freight 4 wheel stand (2000 lb).

A stove bolt engine sits within the "wheel area" of the stand.

I carefully roll a stove bolt engine in and out and around my garages.

I have never had a problem.

I do not think that I would ever use any kind of three-wheel stand with any engine.

No way would I use a 3 wheeled stand. I work alone. Accidents must be avoided at all cost. A 4 wheel is the safest. The best is a bargain. Snap On's have the wheels so far apart for stability that you can trip on them. That's dangerous, in my opinion. I've been extremely happy w/ my Lincolns purchased 40+ yrs ago. They handle most any engine you'd encounter. Exclude large straight 8s,GMC 702 V12s & Packard V12s. Those get done on the bench and maneuvered w/ my Lincoln crane, another top quality unit. Safety first.
I'd suggest Chev dropped the thru '42 end nuts because people overtightened them or found they were not necessary. Saved money and solved a problem simultaneously. David

Yes they snapped off flush with the head- so general consensus is they are not needed?

I should be putting the motor back in the truck within a few days so I'm not going to get a new stand yet- I will for the next project though.
I had a hard time even getting the engine bolted to the stand, bolt holes didnt really line up right and i had to torch one hole a little oblong to make it work.
When i do get another stand i'll be looking for one that accommodates a six cyl a little better for sure!

Those 3-wheeled, T-shaped stands scare me. I used a 4-wheeled U-shaped stand for my 261 but that's been repurposed to hold another love, old Mercury outboards. Removing the one on the left first is a big no-no.

Repurposed Engine Stand.
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