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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,271 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: May 2013 Posts: 173 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2013 Posts: 173 | I'm looking to build another truck from the parts i already have from another project, my issues is looking for a 1940 half or 3/4 ton frame (I just stated looking for one so one is bound to surface but...if I decide otherwise) The '40 3/4 ton frame is 122-ish inches and the 41 3/4 ton is 125-ish inches. To save myself $ and time looking for a quick frame, I was thinking about cutting a few inches off the '41 frame to match the wheelbase of the '40 and I wanted to know, how I should do this or if this is a good idea? | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 210 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 210 | I am not commenting on if you should or should not do this.However I have cut a few frames in the past,but not of this year.If you do cut a frame,break the vertical line. Another words cut about half way up the side (vertical) then cut horizontal at least the width of the frame.I go more if I have room.Then cut vertical ,to finish the cut.This helps prevent cracking,and gives more welding surface.I also like to put a fish plate on the inside over the weld.The fish plate is rectangular in shape,but I cut the ends so it has a point at the centerline on both ends.so it looks like this <__> .then I weld around it. Cutting the ends break the vertical line.Doing the joint this way makes it a strong weld joint as long as your welds are good.The last one I done was a 1988 chevy 4 x 4 that was being restored.I subbed the Back half of the frame,(behind the cab) with one from another truck. | | | | Joined: May 2013 Posts: 173 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2013 Posts: 173 | I not really sure how to ask this but for lack of a better way, what part of the frame would you cut because the width changes as different points and also what I do about the length of the drive shaft, will a machine shop be able to shorten it? I plan to use an S10 5 speed behind a 216, so don't know what I'm going up against really | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 Bolter | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 | A little more info about your planned project would be helpful. V8 conversion? Looking for independent suspension? Jacked up, dropped down. Air bags. It will help us provide more relevant information.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | I have a 1946 3/4 Ton GMC frame (no suspension, just the rails), but I'm a long ways from you. | | | | Joined: May 2013 Posts: 173 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2013 Posts: 173 | Its a pretty straight forward build I'm building a completely stock 1940 truck with a 216 engine and T5 trans except I cant find a '40 3/4 ton frame so I'm thinking about chopping a 1941-46 frame down to size, its about 3 inches | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 Bolter | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 | Do as Metal Shaper suggests. I would think a few inches behind the cab would be the best spot to do it. Sounds like a fun project.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 210 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 210 | Just as horsenaround said most likely the best place to cut it is behind the cab.I don't think taking out 3" or 4" will be to much of a problem even though the frame is tapered .One other thing to keep in mind is as long ,as the same amount is taken out on both rails of the frame,(say 3") the cuts do not have to be in the same place on each rail,but the amount removed does have to be the same.When I cut a frame I always make sure the frame is square before I start,and scribe a reference lines to work my measurements from. | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 | Great cutting and welding info!
Last edited by 6cylindersovertexas; 01/05/2016 4:24 AM.
"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!" My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.Operators are standing by to take your calls! Now cruising in the Passing Lane | | | | Joined: May 2013 Posts: 173 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2013 Posts: 173 | does anyone know how you can shorten the drive shaft, will a machine shop cut it down or do I have to find something? | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 210 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 210 | does anyone know how you can shorten the drive shaft, will a machine shop cut it down or do I have to find something? I have cut them as well.Its not to hard to do, but its best to cut the shaft with a lathe. Most machine shops will shorten them for you. I saw a 1946 Chevy truck frame on eBay today. | | | | Joined: May 2013 Posts: 173 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2013 Posts: 173 | I saw that frame too. I think, I'm willing to travel for a '40 frame but there are several '41-46 frames locally that I can pretty much get for free, so that's where my question/idea for cutting and welding came from | | |
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