The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 350 small block timing and overheating

finally got my engine running. Check it out on Facebook. Search Chris W naggy. Anyway the guy that built it for me said put timing at 6 degree before tdc. It's out of a 78 pickup 4x4. I put a 180 thermostat and it still gets hot. Was up to 220 then came down but was going back up. Try a 160 thermostat? Is the timing right? I drilled a hole in thermostat so I didn't get air lock. Any ideas?

Boy, you left a lot of information to our imagination. Such as...rebuilt motor? What if any upgrades to motor? Radiator condition? And so on.
BTW, a lot of us ol' guys don't do Facebook.

Come on not that old! I'm 55. My kids help me with Facebook.I talked to the guy today that built it for me. Yes it's rebuilt. Mild thumper cam, has a rump rump at idle. Roller rockers. He said I worry too much. Getting up to 220 not bad on a fresh rebuild. He said yes he wanted timing at 6 btdc. He works at our Napa machine shop and builds motors for his son that races local. He is 68 I think. Starts at turn of key easy. He said now if it heats up after together and down the road then I should worry.I have big electric fan pulling air through.

On big aluminum rad. 3 core each core 1 inch big new. 180 thermostat but was going to put a 160 in.

Speak in shorthand. Don't expect much help. 160 too cold.

Now, if you can manage to put a complete sentence or two together and tell us what year vehicle we're talking about, and what sort of cooling system it has, somebody might be able to make some intelligent suggestions. If you're running a modern cooling system with a 15 pound pressure cap, the coolant temperature can go to approximately 250 degrees without boiling over. If you happen to have an older pickup with a zero or 4 pound system, the temperature doesn't need to go above about 200 or so.

Modern V8's are designed to run between 195 and 220 degrees so the parts can heat up and expand to get proper running clearances. Unless the radiator is boiling large quantities of coolant out of the overflow pipe, IT'S NOT OVERHEATING!
Jerry

Sorry, 1953 chevy 5 window with a 350 out of a 1978 chevy 4X4 stock water pump. not sure how many pound cap is. Rad was from company called eagle

A modern aluminum radiator should be able to handle 15 PSI or more without a problem. However- - - -the heater core might be another matter. I'd strongly advise getting the heater rebuilt with a high pressure capable core, and installing a 15-17 PSI radiator cap and a coolant puke tank. Then don't get concerned about coolant temperature unless you see lots of overflow. Anything below 230 degrees is normal.
Jerry

Chris,

All advice given by our members is sound! Timing seems a little light to me. Get a vacuum gauge and set the timing until you get the best vacuum at idle. Then set your mixture and idle settings on the carb to get the best idle at the specified idle speed. 600-650 rpm? Need more info. Was the cam set straight up or with retard or advance? Mild? How mild? Lift and duration specs? When I built a 383 stroker for my '58 Biscayne I started with 8 btdc. Street/strip split duration Crane cam set straight up. Set everything with the vacuum gauge, 180 degree thermostat, Griffin aluminum radiator and Spal electric fan with auto fan thermostat. She would run 185 degrees all day and only crept up to 190-192 degrees on the hottest summer days in stop and go traffic. Be patient and play with the adjustments.

Tim

Thanks for info on the vacuum gauge I'll use that. Not sure on cam or how he set it. He works at our machine shop for napa. his son races at local track and he builds motors for him. I called him the other day and he said just set it at 6 and it will be fine. The cam I bought was a thumper cam that has a slight lope at idle. I'd have to dig through my papers to see the lift and stuff. I take all advice from members. The more the better to figure this stuff out. Thanks again, I'll post other info when I find it.

Stay with the 180 thermostat...echo to what hotrod Lincoln said. Also temp fluctuation is the thermosta opening and closing. If temp goes up and stays up or climbs higher....then you have overheat issues. Also,because of tighter clearences new/rebuilt engines will run a bit hotter until they break in. The test of effective cooling will be when you drive it.as in how does it cool on hot days, cool on hills, in town traffic etc.

Stay with the 180 thermostat...echo to what hotrod Lincoln said. Also temp fluctuation is the thermosta opening and closing. If temp goes up and stays up or climbs higher....then you have overheat issues. Also,because of tighter clearences new/rebuilt engines will run a bit hotter until they break in. The test of effective cooling will be when you drive it.as in how does it cool on hot days, cool on hills, in town traffic etc.

Ok thanks for all the help. When ever I get it on the road I'll let you guys know how it goes.