The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop prepping for engine swap -1961 235

I have a 1946 2-ton chevrolet with the original 4spd transmission- the 1954 261 that was in it needs some machine work so im going to save it for another project...

I bought a 1961 apache 30 with a running 235 for very cheap, im going to steal the motor from it- hopefully pulling it out this week. I plan on using the bellhousing and transmission from my 46' ive got them all cleaned up and painted and ready to go.
Anything i need to know before bolting the old tranny and flywheel and clutch to this newer 235? i though about using the 61's flywheel but since my 46 had the original 6v stomp starter i dont think that will work. (everything else is 12v)
My clutch looks ok so i thought i'd just reuse it and only replace the throwout bearing.
looks like i can swap my throttle linkage as well- i put the Carter YF carb that i already rebuilt on the 235 since the rochester on it needed rebuilt.

Another question- the 61 had what I assume was the factory remote oil filter, i bypassed it with grease gun hoses to get the engine running and to get it cleaned out, it was quite nasty, as i was cleaning out the filter housing with brake cleaner i noticed there was some sort of rubber seal at the bottom that came apart...did i ruin my filter housing? I havent been able to find much info about this cannister filter, is there a rubber seal at the bottom? is it replaceable i hope?

thanks!

Keep the starter and flywheel together. 6 Volt starter fits the 6 Volt flywheel. And works just fine on 12 Volts if you change over. Both flywheels bolt to the 235 so no issue there. Keep the clutch with the bell housing and the flywheel. Fit issues go away. The "seal" on the oil cannister is for the top. Big round gasket that seals the top to the canister. I don't recall any kind of rubber seal inside the cannister. Should be a little hole in the standoff tube about 1/2 way down(or up) That must be clear. If the canister was that dirty it is worth checking. Grease gun hose...never thought about those. Might work just fine. Should hold the pressure and already oil proof. Might get soft when the oil get warm...just keep an eye on them and let us know how they work out. This is a link to a Tech Tip for the oil filters: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/oil%20filters/index.html
Can be helpful to find out what you have. Nice to get the right filter element when you put it back in service.

Thanks Steve! Is it true the flywheel will only go on one way? or do I just need to put the motor at TDC and then line up the little BB to make everything easy?

I think I may go ahead and get a new clutch anyways since its apart, I was looking at my pressure plate and it looks pretty dirty actually...

I see there was a rubber seal along the top of the oil filter cap, sure seemed like there was something in the bottom as well, i thought at 1st it was just gunk, maybe it was.

Are you sure the 1954 261 had a 6 volt starter and flywheel? I thought that was the year of changeover from 6 to 12 volts and there were some of both? You may want to count your flywheel starter teeth to determine exactly what you have...that and examine the casting date on the flywheel.

Check your pressure plate very carefully as I had one "rebuilt" and it gave me all kinds of trouble. It turns out that the pressure plate lugs between the plate and cover were excessively worn. A pressure plate can only be surfaced so many times before it becomes scrap metal.

1955 second series was the first Chevrolet trucks to come "standard" from the factory with 12v electricals (Task Force trucks) .

The 1956 models were the first GMC trucks to come standard with 12v positive ground (oddly, 12v was an option in late 1955 GMC Blue Chip trucks).

No Im not sure it's a 6volt flywheel, just looks like it has the original stomp starter, etc- so I assumed when they swapped motors they just left it orignal from bell housing back- i could be wrong. Should be ok though since I'm using all the same stuff again from the motor back?

I think i'll bring my old clutch and pressure plate to napa and see if they can get my another just like it - i had bought a clutch kit off amazon but it ended up being too small and teh pressure plate looked different so i returned it.

139 teeth on flywheel = 6v
168 teeth on flywheel = 12v

I think i found a project for my 7 year old with the truck tonight...counting flywheel teeth!

Take a good look at the dowel pin holes in the crankshaft. They form a "key" and the flywheel will only bolt on in one location.

thanks! Does anyone know what clutch and pressure plate this would take? I had ordered one but it was too small- hopefully save myself from dragging it to napa and having to order one anyways..

http://devestechnet.com/Home/Flywheel

Explains the different clutch sizes available.

The 1 1/2 and 2 ton trucks use a 10 3/4 inch diameter clutch disk and pressure plate.

I ordered the LuK 04-003 clutch kit off amazon, which is the part number for the 10" clutch i got off Rock Auto and it was too small, I should have measured it- I guess I have the 10-3/4 clutch and 11" pressure plate.

I returned the pressure plate so I cant remember the differences in it, but it was for sure different, are there different style pressure plates?

Basically any of these 235 pressure plate clutch size combo's work work, but the bigger trucks just had ones with larger surface area like the 10-3/4 correct?

All of the pieces and parts I have are from larger trucks so I cannot attest to fitment of all smaller truck clutches. Hopefully one of the Master Parts Manual gurus will help with some part numbers...

I have heard there are two types of pressure plates that can work, the borg-beck style and diaphragm style. My GI parts manual only shows/lists the diaphragm type.

I believe the large trucks like yours used the 10 3/4 clutch, and I tore one unit apart that someone had stuffed a 11 inch disk in between a 10 3/4 pressure plate.

Did you check the date/teeth on your flywheel?

A lot of guys thought the original clutch was too small so they put a flywheel with a larger surface on them. You never know what you have until you measure.

i'll measure the original clutch and pressure plate and maybe post some pictures and maybe someone can tell me what style it is..

I guess it doesn't matter to me if the replacement is the same, just whatever will work best with my truck/engine/tranny combo

What matters the most is if the surface of the clutch face is contacted by the pressure plate with the most surface contact possible. Its in the article, but a good way is to measure the flywheel surface and then order that one!

I measured last night and it was 11" across on the pressure plate and looked like right at 10.5 inches on the clutch