The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 Engine front plate

I have a 235 from a 55 Chevy truck that I'll be installing into a 41 PU Truck. I don't know a lot about the engine but I believe someone had used it as a 235 to 216 replacement before I bought it and it was pulled to do maybe a V-8 street rod. Is there a way to identify that the 216 front plate is already installed on the 235 engine? What are the visual differences?
Thanks
JVV

The 216 plate looks the same as the 235 except that it has two reinforced holes in the flange at the bottom for the older motor mounts.

I believe I've read that I need to have the 216 plate on the 235 engine in order to make the conversion. Is this correct?
Thanks for your response

The front engine mount plate is the same on all of the 216 and 235 engines (261 perhaps as well?). The only difference is the two front engine mounting holes are not drilled on later engines. A 1955 engine may still be drilled, and if not it is a relatively easy fix.

I am a new poster and appreciate the quick responses.

Thanks, that's what I needed to know. Now I need to inspect the water pump and pulley to see if they are the correct replacements. My guess is if the holes are in the front plate the water pump and pulley are correct as well.

New question. Can I pull the 216 with the transmission as a unit once I remove the floor shift lever? It is a 3 speed unit. I'd rather not need to pull the rear axle back to remove the transmission. I will remove the radiator and grill as well as the core support.

I think at some time (1960/61 and later, maybe), there was not a "lip" at the bottom of the plate - no place to drill holes?

Maybe someone will confirm/correct this (Dave?)?

Nonetheless, if you have an edge/lip on that plate, you can drill the older-motor-mount holes as described by Paul.

The only timing plates I have seen that do not have the lip/flange on them are GMC.

If have a enclosed drive shaft (Torque tube).
With the radiator and grill removed, front and rear engine mounts unbolted.
When pulling the engine up and forward the U-Joint Ball housing will just slide off the end of the Torque tube.
You might want to drain the lube out of the transmission first.
Otherwise some lube will come out of the U-Joint Ball housing.

If you do not have a enclosed drive shaft (Torque tube)you might have to unbolt the u-joint first, then pull.

Chevrolet Truck Spec Sheets Packs Click on Show

Here is The Chrevrolet 1941 Truck Pack...
1/2 ton truck has Torque tube.
3/4 ton and up, Open drive shaft. Looks like they all have slip joint yokes, so when you pull they will just slip off the drive shaft.

Just remove the floor shift lever and pull engine and tranny together.

Thanks jorb, that's what I thought. It is a 1/2 ton so with a torque tube.

JVV

Not sure, but if you have a rear transmission support.
You will have to unbolt that from the transmission.
Kind of looks like this. CLICK HERE
Torque tube cross section

1947 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual (Scroll down) "Truck only" Engine removal; This will apply to your truck also.
Note: Step 19.(a) Just unbolt rear transmission support from the transmission.
Skip Step 19.(b) Rear yoke and U-joint ball housing will slide off the torque tube, when you pull the engine and transmission out.
When the U-joint ball housing clears the end of the torque tube.
You will hear a popping sound like you just opened a bottle of champagne. Just kidding.

1941 Chevrolet Shop Manual for Passenger Cars and Trucks
OLD ONLINE CHEVY MANUALS

SINCE the front plate is the topic, I have a question too. The camshaft is held in using a thrust plate with two screws. There is a third threaded hole with an elongated screw, that ends up looking like a stud. Anybody know what this for and is it required for anything? Yes, I lost it or never had it. You can see it on page 6-22 figure 35 of the 48-51 shop manual.

Are you talking about the gear oiler that sits between the
timing gears?
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136996254

If so....YES, that is very much required to oil the
timing gears and restrict the oil flow.

dg

No, I have the tube with a pinched end and a hole to do that. This is under the Cam gear and is a 1/4 -20 threaded hole. There are the smaller holes for the screws to hold the thrust plate on as well. appears what I described before is the oiler, I have that, now that you ask the question and I orient myself on the plate. I guess my question is do I just put a bolt in that hole? It is about Mid way between the screw holes on one side of the cam opening.

Good news the front plate is reinforced and has the mounting holes drilled, looks like my assumption that this engine was already converted is correct.

Thanks for everyone's assistance. I will have more questions once I move the truck from Richmond, VA to Ohio and get to work on it.

JerryVV

Another question on this front plate. Is there anyway to be sure the oiler tube is not plugged while still on the truck?
It looks ok and the hole is open. I pulled a vacuum on it with the shop vac but I don't know if you can blow it out with air or WD40.The gears have some oil on them and look good but the seal was squealing.
Thanks, Howard

Remove the distributor and spin the oil pump clockwise with a cutoff flat blade screwdriver in a 3/8" drill motor. Oil should flow from the gear oiler tube.
Jerry

Great idea but I have already drained the oil and removed the pan. I am going to do the timing cover bottom bolt mod so I guess I can do this after I put the pan back on and refill.
Thanks, Howard

You can put the pan on with out a gasket with only a couple of quarts of oil for that test.