The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors Repro doors and fenders for 58 TF

I'm contemplating getting reproduction door shells and front fenders for a 58 task force. I'm well aware that I can repair what I have but I'm more curious to know how the newer repro stuff fits. I'm hoping to hear from others that have used the repro door shells and or 58/59 front fenders and what kind of fitment issues they may have run into, if any. I have searched the web looking for some type of review on these repro pieces with no results. So I'm thinking if I can't find much for complaints then perhaps they must be fitting pretty well? If you have tried them out then let me know what ya think of them and where you got them. Thanks!

You'll either have to fit the reproduction metal piece to your truck, or fit your truck to the reproduction metal piece.

I've also noticed that if you remove an original panel, fender, or door, then decide to put it back on- it won't fit either.

This isn't answering your questions as far as specifics, but I've helped install a reproduction hood and a reproduction door on
a TF truck. Both were made to work. That could be why you didn't find much for negative reviews; I think folks purchasing them know they won't be perfect.

Brad

I second what Brad says. repros are just that, reproductions of the originals. and it really doesn't matter who you get a repro from, they all fit about the same and more than likely come from the same steel press.

Thanks for the info guys. I have been reading up on fittings panels and fixing the rot. I'm collecting the tools I need to try and repair what I have. If I screw it up beyond repair I might have to go the repro way so it's good to know I have another option. Hopefully I'll be a whiz at welding and metal repair! Thanks again!

Just start a thread with pictures of what you've got going on with your parts; there's some outstanding help/advice on the forum that can help you through the repairs. We'll also tell you when you're looking at junk that needs to be scrapped.

Your truck is a cool one, so take your time with it & good luck.

Brad

Hello,
I'm in the process of installing a reproduction door on my 59' Apache (passenger side). I'll tell you my experience thus far. The reproduction door is almost dimensionally correct compared to the original door. With the door on the hinges and no hardware attached (the latch, striker, access cover) the door fits will inside the door frame. When I added all the hardware to the door, I could no longer close the door. The door latch hits the pillar as well as the door his the pillar. I cant move the door toward the fender because then the door fouls with the fender.

Here's the issue I found:
The outer skin of the door is 3/16"-1/4" wider from the part of the door that fits inside the door frame to the edge of the door that follows the fender line. Because of this, I'm not able to move the door forward towards the fender.
I can take photos of this is you would like or if it would help explain the situation I currently have.

links to photos of my repro door installed:
Outside view: https://swenracer.smugmug.com/Trucks/59-Apache/i-XHfcPtr/A

Inside view: https://swenracer.smugmug.com/Trucks/59-Apache/i-N4nqm2M/A

The door I purchased is from Classic Parts: http://www.classicparts.com/1955-59-Door-Reproduction-Right/productinfo/20-392/#.Vmj9ObgrJhE

Swenracer, Your photo's need to show more of what your talking about but the first thing that pops up for me is you're trying to set the door to the fender.
You set the door to the cab opening and cowl establishing the gap at the back and top of the door and the cowl in front, and go ahead and establish the latch positioning while you're at it. Mark (or drill a small alignment pilot hole) then set the fenders to that.
THEN if you have issues show some pic's of how the door fits in the cab opening and where the fender interferes.
I took my fenders off to set the doors...

also note the doors should lay just inboard of the fender edge to avoid interference - like so - may require some shims at fender mounts

Bill

Gents, I appreciate the feedback and the advice to lay the door just inboard of the fender. I have my fender set as far forward as possible and still have an issue with the reproduction door. I'll take the advise and set the door first and then the fender.

Here's some pictures of the real dimensional issue on the reproduction door that's causing me grief. There is a 1/4" difference and the affects how the door is interfering with the fender that can't be moved forward anymore.

Original door - 15/16" https://swenracer.smugmug.com/Trucks/59-Apache/i-LPb5bLn/A

Reproduction door - 1-3/16"
https://swenracer.smugmug.com/Trucks/59-Apache/i-KxvbsWp/A

Both doors together
https://swenracer.smugmug.com/Trucks/59-Apache/i-VpMMpmR/A

OK. I see your difference now and why you'd want to change that.
I guess first is how far along that edge is it out ?
A few inches or the entire run?
If it's just a few inches I'd carefully slice the edges and fold them up so I could trim the inside panel edge back the 5/16".
I think MP&C has a little tool he made up from a screwdriver or something that will open those up real slick like. If it's the whole edge...
If you have space, time, the tools and determination it can be done.
A less 'proper' way would be trim it where you want it and (using all the proper techniques for welding a panel) weld up the seem and finish it up that way.
The down side is on the next guy who has to change the skin.

The entire edge of the door is 3/16"-1/4" out compared to the original. I can cut off the excess and weld the panel... but what I was hoping for was a door that fits.

I'm in the process of contacting classic parts to see if I got a bum door or if this is an acceptable tolerance for repro doors.

I'm not sure if the panel fit was ever perfect even from the factory back in the day.
Ultimately they were built and sold as utility vehicles so I guess the fit and finish was deemed "good enough" and also making allowances for the production techniques available back then.

Although obviously they weren't as far off as yours seems to be.

I'm not sure if these repro panels are stamped from new dies or if the factories producing them are using dies bought/rescued from original GM sources,if so could the tolerances be off as a result of excessively worn stamping dies?
Would that not have the effect of making the panels bigger?

Just a thought....

Let us know how you make out. I'm curious to know if your door was flawed or if that's how they are being made.

If you can't get no satisfaction
You may find some help on pg6 of the thread.

Here's an update for those of you interested. I sent photos as measurements to classic parts and still haven't heard back after my initial contact.

Meanwhile, I've worked on just setting the repro door in the door opening and it's not working with this door. Since the inside of the repro door is shifted as shown in my earlier posts, the door continues to bind and hit the jam. The issues gets worse when I add the latching mechanism.
I'm ready to buy a good used door.. which is what I have on the drivers side and it worked perfect.

Swen ..do not hold your breath most these places like classic part could care less about your fit ..when they say ""Satisfaction Guaranteed"" they mean they are satisfied with your money and they guarantee NOT to return it ..

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1094561/1.html

I know monitor this belongs in the spoon ..sorry ...
Dan

Final resolution - The door was not taken back by Classic Parts as this is simply how the doors come. These doors are patterned off a single door that was used for a template.

I had a body shop trim 1/4" off the entire cowl edge of the door and refold the door skin. Now the door fits and looks great!

Fantastic-- Thanks for checking back in with how you made it work.

Brad

That sounds about right. To bad you had to go through that but a lesson well learned... and all that.
Speaking of which.
I see the original link I posted was doubled up with https so this one fits .