The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 54 Chevy no spark no start

Well just maybe I can do this with some help ,because I am not real electrically incline but I have a spark tester and a mult-meter. I have no spark at the coil wire going to the distributer . I did at one time because I had it running this summer after I put a new coil, dist.cap, points , all spark wires & spark plugs. Clue;I had the ignition switch off to get new key made .I dont see any lose wire hanging ,and when I turn the key "ON" the batt.guage slightly moves toward dis. ,lights & horn work. what should I do next??Thank's for anything I can try .Like I said I do have a multi-meter and a spark tester. Thank's. Jerry

What year/model/engine/6v/12v?

Don't leave that key in the "ON" position for too long if you aren't attempting to start.

Fully charged battery & Clean grounds? Is the wire from the coil's side to the distributor connected?
Manual for my year truck.
Brad

By "no spark at the coil wire going to the distributor", do you mean no voltage?
Do you have voltage from the wire coming from the ignition switch at the coil?
If the answer to both of these questions in "yes", you either have dirty posts on the coil, a bad wire between the coil and the distributor, or a bad coil.
You can check all of these with your multimeter set on OHMS with the ignition off.
Carl

Hey Uncle brad, this is a 54 chevy 235 in a 49 chevy truck and it has been converted to 12 volt . The wire from the coil is connected to the distributor and its tight it also has been replaced .

Hi Carl , I cranked the engine and had a spark tester on the coil (plug) wire the big wire that goes to the center of the dist.cap. there was no spark . what you said about the multi meter check , not sure if I know how to do that check.

Carl, Im going back out there to see if Im getting voltage from key switch to coil.

ok, I put a test light on the pos.side of the coil and put the test light ground wire on a fender brace for ground and light did not light . The wire from the switch lights up . I believe its from the key switch goes up the firewall and over toward driverside in a wrap of wires.

A few easy tests.
Remove dist cap and rotor button so you can see when points open and close.

1) Turn engine until the point are open.
2) turn key on, you shoulg read 8v - 12vdc on the "+" coil screw terminal and slightly less on the "-" terminal. If not your not getting any voltage to the coil.

Now turn engine until points are closed. You shouldn't read any volts (no voltage drop across a short).If you do the points contacts aren't conducting(file or replace) or the wire from the coil to the distributor is open (cut or bad connection at the terminals).

You should get spark out of the large high voltage coil wire by simply opening and closing the points with a non-conductive lever (to push the pints open and allow them to close again) with the key on.

If I have a blown fuse on the fuse block could that be a start problem ??? I do have a fuse that looks blown but I have no cover for it so I dont know what it's for.

OK Volfandt I will do this check also .I appreciate all the help from every one . I KNOW IT'S A PROCESS OF ELIMINATION ,IT"S DOING IT THAT"S HARD .....LOL.

Edited - I don't think the truck came with a fuse block, or a fuse block cover, but you can trace the wires to see what it goes to.

Stick with Volfandt's process for now.

Brad

1949 Chevrolet truck fuse box/block - figure 3
I connect read the name under STOP LIGHT?

exploded diagram

There is a fuse box for sure... I best do some studying up.

Brad

Tim,

Looks like Horn Terminals to me...

Mike B

Mike B. is right.There is a horn terminal ,one for high beam , I think low beam and brake&tail lights .

Often when working on a modified truck(yours is converted to 12 Volt so modified) Things get lost that matter.
1, There is a fuse block: 2 of them. Stop lights, and head lights.
2, the wire from the key switch to the coil(+) needs to go to a ballast resistor, or, a 12 Volt(internal Ballast resisted) coil.
3, The points must be clean and make a good connection. They must be properly gapped.
4 the horn terminal...is often a relay. It is mounted on the Regulator in many cases.
No I am not attempting to be a hard a$$. I just need to know what the issues are. The above post, with the volts test points open and then closed is good advise. The concern is a 6 Volt coil and no ballast resistor will be a problem. A 12 Volt internal resisted coil will not. There are ways to find out if the coil is working. Again the above post the suggested opening and closing the points is good. You should have a spark when the points open. If the key is on. For those times when a lot of tools are not available, A finger nail will work to pop the points open. If a feeler gauge is not available, a matchbook cover will get the point gap close. If the coil is a 6 Volt unit, it will get hot, and quit after a while. If the coil is a 12 Volt coil and you put a ballast resistor in line with it, well the spark if it works will be weak. A 6 Volt coil will be close to 1.5 Ohms across the + and - connections. A 12 Volt coil will be close to 3 Ohms across the + to - connections. The arithmetic works out to about 4 Amps at the points. if the coil is matched to the Volts. So a 1.5 Ohm ballast resistor will work for a 6 Volt coil in a 12 Volt system. If you use the same resistor in line with a 12 Volt coil, then the current at the points is too low and the coil will not provide a spark. So it matters.

I want to thank you'all for your help with this. My problem has been solved. I never did get'er running but I sold the truck today.

that's one way to eliminate a headache... what are you going to buy to replace it?

Rusty brings up a good point!
We nearly had to throw bartamos out of the "club" for going too long without a Stovebolt in possession. (He has since complied).
It is acceptable to at least imply the attempt of looking to secure one in the near future.
Carl

I don't have a "stovebolt" anymore either... but my Binder has a 327 heartbeat and the Coupe has a 502.

You're in good shape Rusty.
I make it a habit when at car shows, to tell a Furd guy who has a 350 in the engine bay, "Nice Chevy you got there."
Carl