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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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| | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 30 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 30 | Okay Guys and Gals, I'm fairly handy with the rattle can approach to painting and have turned out some pretty nice results. My latest work unfortunately has not been on my truck but on a 56 **** model 850 tractor I am also restoring. Had to replace the oil pan gasket so while it was down it got cleaned thoroughly and repainted. This time though I stuck it in the oven (electric) on warm for 20 minutes. It got 3 coats of enamel and "baked" this way. I also epoxyed the cracked steering wheel, painted it with enamel and stuck it in the oven too. Keep in mind that the oven door is cracked open a bit as are the kitchen windows. When I went to replace oil pan I was pleased to find that the paint did not chip off with tools like you normally would find. Not sure where I got the idea from but going forward if it fits in the oven it will get the same treatment. Has anyone else done something similar? Note: Clean oven before cooking the turkey 
Deaner
1950 Chevy 3600 Stake Bed
I don't know where I'm going, but there's no sense being late!
| | | | | Joined: May 2000 Posts: 234 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2000 Posts: 234 | Some of the high heat (1100/1500 deg) engine paints recommend this, so I've done my whole Willys engine (except the block!) this way. I agree, the paint was definitely more durable on install.
The only problem I ran into was not letting the paint dry before putting it into the oven. Turned the satin black into gloss!
Another reason some car manufacturers do this - they paint the car using a water based paint, but have to get all the H20 out before clear coating (which is not water based).
-Boyo
'48 Willys CJ-2A / '55.1 Chevy 3600 / '66 Austin-Healey 3000 / '04 Volvo wagon (parenthood!?)
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 247 Member | | Member Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 247 | Most of the time it is OK to do this -BUT at a low overall temperature with plenty of ventilation. If you know what you are doing, this can result in a better overall paint job. The problems with this approach are solvent pop, wherein the solvent in the paint is literally boiled to the surface (not quite exactly like solvent pop in car paint jobs - thats when there is too much solvent in the paint to begin with) you'll see a good tendency toward self leveling but the paint on the whole will tend to shrink. And of course there is the tendency to actually heat the solvent up in combination with increasing the concentration of the gases (closing the oven door) - creating a BIG bang in your week. Most paint professionals that want to speed the drying time/harden the surface/etc use infrared lamps. The lamps will heat the part, not the air around it. Consequently, the air can be circulated - and no big bang. SO, if you're going to do this use some common sense - or something resembling what ought to be common sense. | | | | | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | In Southern Arizona we bake our paint jobs in natural UV rays. Its already starting to get hot here. | | |
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