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The correct bulb sockets for gauge lights come already installed on the wiring harness.

Thanks Grigg. I have a universal harness I'm using. It's good quality but leaves bare wire for the sockets assuming you have good ones already. I have the sockets but of course the old wire is threadbare and useless. I imagine I could find some "tails" to use and re-use the old sockets. That was my plan. We all know about plans...

Typically you'd reuse spring, fiber disc, and contact; soldering in your entirely new wire to reuse the old socket.

That was my plan !

Today Cosmo and Alec stopped by to hang out. We installed some 8R19.5 tires and wheels on the rear axle, approximately 2" taller than the original tires (Good for about 150-200 rpm drop)
Then we all crammed in for a test drive. Found a suitable straight spot in the road and got it up to a GPS verified 63 MPH on the way out and 70! on the way back.

It runs nice at 50-55 and I suspect with some better engine tuning it'd be happy at 55-60 for continued running.


Pictures of wheel swap to come later,
Grigg

Grigg,

Nice to know on the 19.5's. I have a set going on mine too, along with the 14 bolt 4.10 and a 250 engine swap.

Larry W.

Same here. My 19.5 rims are painted, and ready for rubber. Grigg - is the out to out dimension on the dually's about the same as with the 700x18's

I didn't measure before and after but a quick comparison of each mounted tire shows about 3/4" difference.
So each inside dual is now 3/4" closer to the rear springs, close but not too close.
Overall width measured across tire sidewalls is about 1.5" wider with 8R19.5 tires on 6" wide rims than the width with the stock 18" wheels/tires.

Grigg

More details on the 19.5" tubeless dual wheel swap.

Comparison of the new 8R19.5 tire and wheel beside the original 18" wheels and tires. PICTURE
Rough measurement shows almost 2" taller. PICTURE

Checking fit of inside dual and the brake drum, it is an EXTREMELY tight fit. About 1/16" clearance between corner of drum and wheel center.
PICTURE
If it were any closer we'd have problems. These 19.5" wheels have a more or less spherical dish to the center. I've had some similar 19.5" 8 lug wheels that had a more conical (straight/angled and not so curved) dish to the center, those different wheels may or may not fit (I don't have one anymore to test).

Here's an overall picture of testing that first wheel and checking clearance.
PICTURE**

Next issue is stud holes and the wheel studs.
PICTURE
The original wheel studs are 1/2" and the wheels will accommodate 9/16" studs. This leaves some room around the studs but luckily enough the wheels are what is called "hub centered" in that they fit snug at the center bore and the hub, so a snug fit on the studs (and tapered seat lugnuts) is not a necessity for centering the wheel.
Had a friend hold the brake and I rotated the wheels to take out the slack such that when driving forward the studs are already contacting the appropriate side of the lug holes, then torque the lugnuts.
Picture of wheels installed. PICTURE

Don't forget the clamp plates and be sure they are installed dimple side out, or if using more modern ones countersink/bevel side out to fit the appropriate lugnut. A black and red clamp plate is visible in the picture linked above with ** after it.


Next, driving report and more/better pictures of the truck,

Grigg

Yesterday, the last day of our vacation, the weather was very nice, perfect for a drive in the old GMC. It also hasn't snowed yet so no salt on the road; I should get my driving in while I can. When they do salt I'll stop driving for the winter, or spring as it may turn out...

Planned a trip up the road to an antique mall the other side of Staunton, about 45 mile drive.
Before heading out I checked the truck over and got it ready to travel.
Previously I had greased the front end and now greased the u-joints and rear springs to complete that job. The wiring is pretty sketchy the more I look at it. Saturday (or sometime earlier) a wire broke off at the brake light switch and I crimped on a new bullet connector. The connector didn't fit snug enough and the brake lights gave up again when it jumped off the terminal, a little squeeze fixed that. Also topped off the engine oil which does a pretty good job leaking out of pretty much evry place it can, though not very fast thankfully.

Map of Sunday's travels https://goo.gl/maps/vUun9WC1Z3U2

First stop at the local farmers co-op to fill up on non ethanol fuel. Then we just headed up Rt. 11 almost to Staunton where it was faster to hop on the interstate for 8 or 10 miles. Must have been moving along quick enough because no one passed us on 11, and we almost kind of kept up on the interstate. The speedometer is broken and I didn't bother checking the GPS.
Didn't find much interesting at the antique mall, I was hoping for some VA 1951 licence plates but no luck. Also looking for a nice clean 5" Unity spotlight because at some point the truck had one. I wouldn't install one from scratch but with a hole already there I'll put one back, they can be useful.

On the way home it was already dark as we left the mall. We stopped in Staunton for a nice dinner and then left on Rt. 252.
252 is a real direct and more interesting way to get home, it pretty much ends at our house. It's also not busy at all and most comfortable at 50-60 MPH which the truck is also most comfortable at.

The heater works OK running the 12V motor with only 6V but if real cold out it probably couldn't keep up like that. Eventually a 12V system will solve that, and new weatherstrip will help too.


I also took a bunch of overall and more detailed pictures of the truck Sudnay, not enough to see every detail and flaw but a decent start, need to take some more pictures in better light still.
The picture album for the truck is found here, and is same album with most all of the pictures linked throughout this thread.

1951 GMC 1 ton PICTURE ALBUM


Next, waiting on seat belts to show up, looking for a 14 bolt axle to swap, little further out is a new wiring harness.

Grigg

Very nice Grigg. Look forward to seeing it soon!

He has had it for a while, it is a '36, bet he will never sell it.

Grigg, thanks for the great story and photos.

Ed

Thanks Ed,
Your comment about the 36 I assume was referring to one of the junkyard trucks in CO we spotted early on in the trip.

Grigg

Hi Grigg. I agree on the 19.5's I carried a spare brake drum with me when I went to pick them up from my seller. They were tight but the face of the drum fit squarely against the face of the rim. I was wondering if I should use the ring on the 19.5's. I see you did. You have good faith in the old 18's taking her on the highway for a 45 minute drive. Mine are too rotted for such a journey. Keep the photos coming. Best - Joe

Grigg,

I'm working on a fairly nice 1950 GMC 250 with 9' Pickup Bed.

This has been a very interesting thread as I rebuilt the Huck brakes on it a couple of years ago and would certainly prefer a less maintenance intensive alternative.

Once I find my H052 housing, which "14 bolt from 73-2006 brake system" is preferable? And is that assuming the donor is a 73-06 3/4 or 1 T truck?

I'll do a search for the front end improvements, including brakes, knowing that's a whole different can of worms...

Buckkoo,
Check out the 1-ton forum. Larry is looking for a 5:14 for a 4:10 swap. If your interested respond to him.

More driving,

Drove it to work Monday just for fun, no troubles. It might be running better and better, and sure starts easy even when cold.

Yesterday evening was an adventure!
A good friend is moving to town in a week or so and offered us a few loads of firewood they had stockpiled at the old house. If you also heat with wood I'm sure you know better than to turn down an offer of split dry wood.
So I left work a couple minutes early to go home, refill the stove, and take the 51 about 15 miles up the river to fetch firewood. It was pretty windy and getting dark quick by the time we got there, hardly any moon. Backed up to the pile and started loading just as it started snowing. Wasted no time finishing loading, completely dark and continuing to snow real heavy now, big flakes.
Watched a state plow truck go by just as we were leaving, a bummer because I really hoped to get home before they salted the road.

Given the circumstances we didn't pile the wood real high, but it was still a respectable load. I was also curious how this particular truck would handle with a load and went a little light on it for that reason too. Getting back on the now completely white road was not so fun, the one wiper would only make half a wipe at a time... We puttered along, defroster working well, headlights OK, and wipers about 25%. Passed another state truck going the other way and luckily not salting, also couldn't see that the first one had salted any. Thankfully!

Little by little we kept it on the road, didn't run into anything more than a bunch of big snow flakes, and finally made it home. PICTURE safe and sound in the garage Backed in and I'll just fill the stove straight from the truck this week, save handling the wood two more times.

Looking forward more enthusiastically to a new wiring harness and sometime after that some 12V wipers.

Grigg

Sometimes the reflection from large snowflakes in the headlights is overpowering, then it is best to run with park lights only, there is always enough background light(moon, etc) to proceed, done that many times.

Ed

Made another firewood run on Saturday afternoon without any snow. This time with the sides on the bed allowed for a nice full load with the overload springs well engaged. It drove fine but would have liked the lower (stock) axle gears if this was to be a regular occurrence, or more power. Brakes worked well but I didn't want to need them. More/bigger/better brakes sure wouldn't hurt.
Here are a few photos on the way home.
PICTURE leveled out nicely with a load
PICTURE 2
PICTURE 3


Next, the 52 1 ton pickup.

Grigg

My old neglected 52 Chevy 1 ton pickup has a pretty bad cab, a decent frame, OK front fenders, terrible rear fenders, so so running boards, and then the bed. The bed is what I'm most interested in keeping and although not perfect it may be good enough and very useful after a quick sand blasting and paint, leave the few rust holes (character). Or it will eventually be a great pattern for building a new bed, one of the many task on my eventual to-do list.

Earlier this Saturday with some help I finally got the 52 1 ton over to my place from where it was resting for many years at my folks place. I parked it there back in 2006 to remove the axles which then went under my 48 2 ton project which was moving along quite quickly back then... later I sold the engine and transmission.

For 10 years it has been sitting on some oak blocks and timbers well above the ground but getting closer to it.
Here's a PICTURE of rotten wood blocks.
To move it I had saved a rear axle and springs from a junk/parts truck and needed to put it under there and slide some spring pins in place. Didn't seem safe crawl under there at this point. With the help of some borrowed hydraulics we picked the truck up and brought it over on the driveway, set it on some sawhorses, and rolled the rear axle and springs under it.
Pictures of that process:
PICTURE 1
PICTURE 2
PICTURE 3
PICTURE 4
PICTURE 5 (name that Stovebolter)
PICTURE 6 (the hover truck)

To unload it at my place I have a little home made swiveling doohickey that slips on the end of the forklift forks and can pick up a truck by the front axle, or in this case bumper, and drive it around much like a wrecker would.

Before long I'd like to put the pickup bed on the GMC.


Next, tucking the GMC away "for a long winter’s nap"

Grigg

uuuuuugggghhhhh - Alec ?

Yes

Grigg,

Love the shots. Any bed clearance issues above the 19.5's with a load? I rolled my rear 18's up next to the 19.5's that are now on the rear and they are really only an inch shorter. My 19.5 drive tires are recaps right now so they might be a little taller than new ones, not sure.

Larry W.

Any and all flat beds would be mounted differently, but in this case no there was no troubles with a load, still had a few inches. The mud flaps on the other hand touch the ground.

I'm running 8R19.5 on the rear, many (all?) of the metric size 19.5 tires that would fit on these 6" wide rims are shorter overall diameter. In my mind 8R19.5 is the ideal tire choice here, tall and skinny.

Grigg

Agreed Grigg. I met a guy who put 70 series 19.5s on his truck. He said you could barely turn the front wheels. Tall and skinny is the answer. I just picked up 6 new tires on Saturday. Chinese but well made. 12 ply radials. Made by a company called Double Coin. Still looking for rim No. 7 spare. Best - Joe

Last week we'd known snow was coming on Thursday so every evening after work I had planned to rearrange the garage with three goals in mind. First get the GMC tucked away until spring. Second make room to work on axles and other small projects. Third try to squeeze my car in.

Only trouble was every evening I had other "more important" things to do. Until Thursday I took the whole day off work to help a friend move and figured we'd be done early (he estimated only one u-haul truck load). So I planned to sort the garage when I got home after lunch.
Moving went well but come Thursday night we had totaled 3 truck loads, several car loads, and still one more load at the old house waiting to be loaded and moved. By the time I got home 11 or 12 hours later I was thoroughly worn out, no energy for the garage.
That was OK though, the forecast said the snow wouldn't come until 10 or 11:00 in the morning.... Until I woke up at 7:30 and checked again to find the show was now expected any minute.

So in the snow I unloaded the truck, moved axles and pallets around and packed it all back in the garage.
PICTURE 1
PICTURE 2

Over the 3 day weekend we totaled 13" and stayed home.
I started to disassemble the brakes on a 2007 model GM single wheel AAM 11.5" rear axle.
PICTURE 3
PICTURE 4
I'd like to eventually have disc brakes front and rear and faster axle gears yet. So I'll be swapping a 14 bolt rear axle and replacing the drums with these late model disc. (Not using this 2007 axle complete because it is to wide and quite expensive)
There are companies that sell simple caliper brackets to put 70-80's front 3/4 ton disc brakes on the rear 14 bolt but (to me) they don't really seem suitable/large enough for a working 1 ton truck. They also don't have a good strong parking brake option.
I think these new model disc brakes with parking brake drum inside the rotor address both issues; considering they come from a modern 1 ton with a pretty substantial weight capacity and capable of quite high road speeds.


Next, seat belts? wiring harness? More axle/brake stuff?

Grigg

Seat belts are apparently in the mail. They were waiting on a part to ship which I knew when I placed the order. Apparently taking longer than they expected so they asked if I'd be OK with slight change to the order, (almost insignificant) and a 10% refund; they should now show up this week.

Over the last few weeks I've been scratching my head, rounding up parts, taking measurements and notes all to figure out a 14 bolt axle swap and late model disc brakes with internal drum type parking brake. I like good brakes a lot... Also these old 14" drums are nearly non existent, on the other hand modern brake parts can be had now and for years to come.
The 14 bolt GM axle is a very similar but newer 1 ton rear axle that replaced the Eaton in 1973.
See and help with the late model brake discussion in this thread.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...del_GM_disc_brake_swap_.html#Post1146672

Grigg

If you are wondering what happened to progress, as Grigg mentioned in his last post, he has taken the topic of "Late model GM disc brake swap -- with parking brake" over to the Tons O' Fun forum.

He's got a "ton" of information there on the topic. As Blind1968 said, "He's a one man research department."

Here's the thread to follow along.

He's nearby.

Peg

Yes, sorry it's been a while.
I was working on disc brakes, that's been fun.

The last 3 weeks I've spent my time on cleaning and shuffling the shop around to make room for a new machine.
Please Let's keep this thread/journal on topic with the GMC but if you're curious about my latest diversion follow along here .

In the meantime I've been scratching my head and reviewing seat belt mounting options and details. When I can get the truck out of the garage again it'll be time to document and install the belts.

Grigg

Yes, we'll keep this on topic. John got his seat belts last week. I imagine, he'll see what you go thru before he starts his.

This past Saturday I picked up yet another rear axle for the 51 GMC.
1st one I bought 5 years ago in anticipation of the 1 ton I was going to have "eventually". Didn't find out untill I got into it but unfortunately had spun a wheel bearing and a carrier bearing, not terrible but not good enough for a "keep it forever" kind of truck.
2nd one I bought from a friend and local junkyard owner, It has the 3.73 axle gears I want and I hoped would yield a good housing too. However it has severe rusting on the bottom of the axle tubes (Priced very well for just the gears though).
3rd one is from an RV with 88,000 miles and at least on the outside looks real nice, no rusty tubes or terribly bad seals. It has 4.10 gears that I won't use.

PICTURE 1

PICTURE 2

These are all 14 bolt axles, GM 1 ton dual wheel but narrow from a "Cab and Chassis" never from a truck with a dually pickup bed. I did learn/concluded that the C&C axle from a step van or RV is likely to have shock mounts both on the front of the axle tube, while one from a pickup cab truck has one shock mount front and one rear. This makes the P30 or RV or step van (whatever you call them) axles a slightly better choice if using the original optional AD upper rear shock mounts.


Next seat belts when I can again get the truck out of the garage,

Grigg

OK, after 3 months of quiet time for the GMC he has emerged from the garage. luckily it was an overcast day and no shadow was seen, thus predicting a pleasant spring and summer for old truck activities...

I'd have had the truck out sooner except in the meantime I bought a new engine lathe and moved my old one just inside the garage door anticipating a quick sale which hasn't happened. With a friends help and equipment we moved the lathe out, extracted the truck, and put the lathe deeper in the garage.
photos of the lathe adventures from a couple months ago. Lathe Adventures

First addressed the fuel leak as it pulled out the garage leaving a drip every couple inches. The fuel line from pump to carb instead of an original steel line was a rubber hose installed by the previous owner. It looked in pretty good condition and not old from the outside but the inside was all cracked and causing leaks at the ends. I replaced it with some better quality rubber fuel hose (that's actually 15 years old, a fleamarket find). I'll go back to the original if and when I have the front clip off and can easily get to the front of the engine.
Second I replaced the spark plugs with NGK XR5 gapped at 0.030" on the recommendation of several other bolters. Truck runs at least as good and likely better with the new plugs.
PICTURE 1 Plugs and fuel line


Now seat belts. This project turned out to be really quick and easy; much to my surprise after thinking about it and reading other tales and how to's on seat belt installs.

First I removed the seats and seat frame which revealed a very broken mount on the drivers side and some broken spot welds on the seat frame.
PICTURE 2 cracket seat mount
Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture after, but imagine that as a spider web of welds and a bit of new metal.
Center seat brace was much easier, drill out failed spot welds and plug weld to repair.
PICTURE 3 seat brace before
PICTURE 4 seat brace after

These are the belts I ordered pictured complete with invoice and part numbers. They all worked out fine however I'd get the fixed end longer next time though 20" does work OK (you'll see why later).
PICTURE 5 seat belts and invoice

Where to mount them in the center?
I sat in the seat and measured/estimated that my hip was 5" from center as I'd normally sit/drive. So I installed the center anchors 10" apart and centered in the cab. They're as close to the riser as the hardware allows, 5/8".
PICTURE 6 center seat belt anchor holes

This is the only tricky part where a little head scratching comes in. If you now pass those seat belt straps up through the seat they have to take a pretty circuitous rout to get out between the cushions. Ideally the seat belt straps are straight from anchor to your lap however this is not possible in an AD truck without modification.
Here's the modification, two slots in the seat frame back for them to exit from.
PICTURE 7 belt slot layout
PICTURE 8 belt slot cutting
PICTURE 9 belt slot deburing/rounding
As you can see again 10" on center. Slots are 2.5" wide, 1/2" tall and centered about 5/8" down on the seat frame. Real easy to cut by first drilling the end holes and connect with jigsaw.
Did a good job softening the edges with file, deburing tool, and flossing with sand paper. I'll look into using a length of very small rubber hose split and fit over the sheetmetal to make a sort of grommet to further soften the edge.
PICTURE 10 center belts installed.

The outside anchors for the retractors turned out to be exceptionally easy. I would use these same locations (or nearly so) and method for plain non retractable lap belts and also for shoulder belts. Figured this out by just holding the retractor about where it made good sense, allowed straight line to hips, and where it fit and where anchor plate/nut under the cab would fit.
These ended up being 3-5/8" back from the seat riser and at that point about 2-1/8" in from the radius edge of the cab floor. Drilled a small pilot hole from the top and then under the cab to drill/enlarge to full size, 7/16".
PICTURE 11 outside belt hole locations
PICTURE 12 approx. angle/assembly of retractor and angle bracket.
PICTURE 13 Installed, same on other side.

This whole seat belt project including the weld repairs to my seat frame and mount only took a couple hours from removal to reinstalling the seats including head scratching and figuring out the plan. One of the only times I've ever completed a project in less time than I estimated.
Installing seat belts can be done without welding and without removing the gas tank!
The 20" center belts are shown at full extension, if you'd like the buckle to be at your front instead of your side then they'd need to be longer. The retractable part is plenty long to reach either way.
PICTURE 14 seat belts done
PICTURE 15 seat belt from the side


Next, prepping for the 4-5 hour drive to the Stovebolt Homecoming in a couple weeks. Homecoming Info

Grigg

Update on the seat belts:
they work just great and fit well. The retractable lap belts however do want to retract and sometimes with a bump in the road they suck you further into the seat and don't let go. This is a minor annoyance and may be able to overcome it with technique. But if this would really bother you I suggest save your money and just get plain lap belts that you manually adjust. Or spend more money and get shoulder belts.

Sunday I pulled out of storage two old but little used 8R19.5 tires I collected at a swap meet a number of years ago.
Monday had the tire shop remove some 225/70/19.5 tires from the other two 19.5 wheels I have and mount and balance the 8R19.5 tires. Those modern tires were a little shorter and fatter than the 8R19.5. The 8R19.5 are almost the very same dimensions as the original 7.00-18 tires.

I hadn't ever unbolted the front wheels until yesterday and found a couple stripped nuts and most of them had pulled/weak looking threads anyhow.
PICTURE 1 Stripped threads
Luckily the studs are all OK, the nuts must have been soft, perhaps not original? And likely they had been over torqued on several occasions. The shop manual does list the torque specs, and for 1/2-20 it's about 75 ftlb
PICTURE 2 Torque specs.
After putting off buying a good 1/2" drive torque wrench with the hope of finding a deal on a used one I bit the bullet and bought a new Snap-On TQFR-250 on sale last week. Now I can torque lug nut of all sizes.

Back to the nuts, what I have are 1/2-20 with 3/4" over the flats, this is a common off the hardware store shelf variety of hex nut. Curious if this was correct/original I looked in the parts manual and sure enough the originals were also 3/4" over the flats. I would have guessed they were over size or "heavy" hex nuts but apparently not.
I'll order or pick up some nuts today.

The old tires as I removed them were quite a bit out of balance judging by how they really wanted to rotate heavy side down. They were also old, quite old, and one in terrible shape. I'd known they were old but didn't know how bad they were or had gotten and to think I'd had the truck up to 70 mph...
PICTURE 3 Nasty tire

Can't wait to take it for a spin with the new balanced front tires and wheels and see how the ride is.


Next more trip prep, and then research and head scratching on the wiring harness I need to order soon.

Grigg

Good news on the tires Grigg. That one 8r19.5 we picked up in W. VA holds air but I don't see myself using it. I am looking to pick up a good spare one day. Hope all is well. I would love to see a full on picture of the truck with all 6 19.5's when you get a chance. - Joe

Lug nuts came in yesterday so I swapped out all 32 and torqued them to 75 ftlb.

The new (old) Michelin 19.5" front tires are nice and round and smooth riding.
Here's that picture you wanted Joe,
PICTURE

It's nice to have modern and more reliable tires than the old crusty 18" I had but this comes at the expense of funny looking wheels for a 1 ton AD dual wheel truck.


Next, more prep for the Homecoming,

Grigg

"comes at the expense of funny looking wheels for a 1 ton AD dual wheel truck"

Looks good to me. Looks like it is ready to do some work.

Larry W.

Thanks, They look fine but they're not the original 8 hand hole wheels that pretty much only these 1 ton trucks had. Some folks really like the looks of those original wheels. Functional and reliable suits me.


Speaking of wheels, some months ago there was a craigslist link in the Swap Meet section for some 8 lug 19.5" single wheels. I looked at the ad and they were not cheap wheels, several hundred $$. They also came with tires which usually just add to the cost/bulk of shipping/hauling old used wheels and then the aggravation and expense of removing and disposing of the dead tires.
A few days later I was still thinking of them and perhaps they could be had for less money, never hurts to ask...

So I called and talked to the guy and learned that the tires were less than 4 years old (by the date codes) and comparing to Goodyear's listed new tread depth they have no measurable wear. https://www.goodyeartrucktires.com/...dline=160105&prodcode=13906502800000
Looked up the price on those tires and they're $300-$350 each! Suddenly the asking price for wheels and tires seemed more reasonable. Essentially I could buy a couple tires and get a Free set of hard to find wheels and a few more Free tires to boot.
These Goodyear G633RSD tires are the tires I wanted for the truck anyhow, I'd have to buy them sooner or later.

The wheels and tires were in Michigan but close enough to a friend's shop and as luck would have it he was making a service call right close to where the wheels were. I mailed a check to my friend who cashed it and picked up the goods. Then two weeks ago he was making a trip to PA and dropped them off near Carlisle for me.
So Friday/Saturday I drove up to PA picked 'em up, visited some friends and a bunch of yard sales and junk shops.

New 8R19.5 tires and single wheels. Remember eventually I will make this a pickup truck with single wheels.
PHOTO 1
Next for these I need to line up a powder coater and decide/research colors, so far I'm thinking black.

Grigg

I found a local powder coater that had some kind of primer coat first, then color(green) then clear on top for about $100. each, a few years ago. (22.5's)

Ed

Thanks Ed,
I had some done very nicely up in WV now about 10 years ago, wow how time flies. They cost me about $30 each at the time. A couple years ago the same shop was over $100 per wheel.

Just called a much more local powder coating shop (I haven't used them before) and they will sandblast, prime with a zinc rich primer, and color for ~$85 per wheel. Sounds like they know their stuff and I've heard good things about them, worth a try.

Grigg

Grigg,

Back on Page 4 you mentioned the wiring harness. I think I might be interested if the guy can make me something reasonably priced. Can you share his info? Maybe I missed it.

Thanks - Joe