The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre Do It Yourself (DITY) Gallery 1951 Chevy 3100 Stepside - "Piecing it Together - Blow by Blow"

I wanted to begin using this thread to document my build. I picked up a 1951 Chevy 3100 1/2 ton in late August in various forms of disassembly and I aim to get her back on the road by Thanksgiving!

I'm located in Omaha, NE so I figured this was the best place to document this build.

Here is a link to photos along the way: 1951 Chevy Project Flickr Page

There is a short backstory on my acquisition of this pickup. I first starting working on older cars around 14 years old when I got a 1972 VW Super Beetle (of which I just finished restoring - frame off in August 2015). I also at about 16 years old got a 1964 C-10 Fleetside that I completed a partial restoration on. I then completed a 1974 VW Super Beetle and after selling both that and the '64 Chevy - took a ~10 year pause through college and starting my career from working on old cars (but I never lost that itch!).

I have always been a huge fan of Advanced Design and Task Force Chevy pickups. They just have that look I love. Upon finishing 1972 Super Beetle, I was already itching for another project (my wife was not however but she lets me pursue my 2nd love). I took my time and discretely started flipping thru Craigslist and Facebook ads of local projects for sale and was shocked at how readily available these pickups still are! Unfortunately, I had to weed thru lots of ads asking for what guys had invested in their unfinished project or projects that were just simply too far gone for me.

Then one day it happened. An ad showed up on Craigslist for a 1951 3100 that had no pictures and only a price - but the seller was responsive and very close in proximity! I grabbed a buddy and went to go see it one Thursday night. The pickup was all I wanted it to be. Solid and straight frame. decent body (although completely disassembled), a stock motor and transmission (that supposedly ran) and even a Mustang II clip included but not yet installed! I left knowing I'd buy the pickup and played the game with the seller. He needed it out of his storage shack to store another project, his son had lost interest in it and he just didn't have the time to deal with it. Lots of guys were making offers on parts and he just wanted it gone as a whole. I made a fair, yet lucrative offer and after about a 30 minute discussion, the car hauler was on it's way and I was the proud owner of a clean title 1951 Chevy 3100 1/3 ton. Let the games begin!

So far, I've completed the following:

• Installed the motor
• Installed the radiator
• Installed the transmission
• Pulled and cleaned the gas-tank
• Assembled the various bolt-on body panels
• Started the motor and tuned it to idle (first time since the mid-80's!)
• Began painting the motor

Items remaining before initial road test:

• Finish painting motor
• Replacement of motor gaskets
• Replacement of motor mounts
• Reinstall gas tank & sending unit
• Go thru brake system

Thanks in advance for everyone's thoughts and advice along the way! Looking forward to getting this old girl back on the road!

Kind of like putting a puzzle together!

Welcome to the Bolt! Are you going to put the Mustang front end under it or leave it stock?

What a busy week it's been! I have got a lot of work done on the pickup and things are really starting to take shape!

I have worked to paint the block, valve cover, push-rod cover as well as replace the fuel pump and all relative gaskets for these items. I have also painted the starter and the generator. I'll be painting the other bolt on items (oil pan, water pump, harmonic balancer, distributor, oil filter and air cleaner while breather tube will be getting replaced) and replacing their gaskets in the coming days. Here are some pictures:

I also spent last night out in a farmers field picking thru about 5 cabs/partial AD trucks for parts. I scored big time, coming out with the following for peanuts!:

• Air Cleaner
• Door Glass (both sides)
• Front Hood Emblem and brackets
• Headliner Rod/Bow
• Visors
• Glove Box Door
• Speaker Grill Trim
• Lower metal door panels
• Windshield center trim (inner and outer)
• Throttle Cable
• Complete exhaust
• Wiper Arms

My floor pans are being delivered this afternoon so this weekend will be a fun time of working on the motor items listed, cleaning up and installing the above as well as cutting out my old pans and hopefully putting the new ones in with tack welds for a test-fit!

Rich'sToys - I think I'm going to leave it stock with maybe a slight amount of lowering in the leaves to give the wheels the right look in the fenders.

A very busy weekend. Below is a summary with a handful of photos:

Got my:

Front hood badge hung.

Windshield center molding and wipers mounted.

Side hood emblems mounted.

Started doing a rough cut to remove rusted floor pans.

Radio Delete plate, center speaker grill, glovebox door and throttle cable installed.

Stock air cleaner refurbished and installed.

Oil pan gasket replaced including painting the oil pan.

Lastly, thanks to a comment from a member on the H.A.M.B. - I realized my plug wires were all mixed up so got those sorted and the engine purrs like a kitten now!

Until next time!

Disassembled and reassembled each brake on all 4 corners last night and besides needing some cleaning, everything appeared in good condition. The previous driver of this pickup took good care of things.

My question is: Can I fill the master cylinder (it's totally dry) and use a manual pump bleeder at each corner to force pull fluid thru each entire line and then commence with actual bleeding or am I forced to remove the Master Cylinder to bench bleed and then go on from there?

I have never bench-bled an original-style single-chamber 47-55 Chevrolet/GMC truck master cylinder.

I understand that many people have done this (and/or recommend doing this) when replacing an original style master cylinder.

My thoughts are along the lines of safety. If there's any doubt there's no doubt. Brakes are kind of fussy so I'd vote take it out and bench test it.

Beyond making the bleeding process faster, what other purpose does bench bleeding the MC serve?

Well today I pulled and rebuilt the MC and bench bled it. I need to replace the main brake line that runs under the trans but other than doing that and a full bleed, I think I'm ready for a test drive!!!

Hey MarkieMark

Cant wait to get the first impressions on your driving of this truck...I am shooting for the end of the year to get mine driving too..

Good luck...keep up the great work...glad to see another VW fan on here too...

MikeC

Hi mikec4193 I can't wait either! Never driven one this old or with a straight front beam so interested to see how it feels!

Progress update: Disassembled and reassembled the emergency brake cross shaft assembly last night because it was frozen. Is it normal for the shaft to just rotate metal-on-metal at the ends or should there be a bushing of some sort in there? What are you guys using to lube yours if it is metal-on-metal?

Metal on metal is normal for the cross shaft.
Grease may just attract dirt and promote wear, does the shop manual address this?

Unless I've missed, I don't see anything here : '48-'51 Manual

UPDATE: Used some white grease to lube the parking brake cross shaft at the pivot points. Seems to be working well.

Working on installing the new floor pans this week. Will post some pictures soon.

Was bored last night so decided to install my Fulton SunVisor:

Picture of Visor Installed.

Any tips on how to understand if it's positioned properly on the A-Pillar & center molding?

Nevermind, I found it here: http://53truck.ez15loan.com/howto/fulton-spec.htm

No, you didn't miss it, and the parking brake cross shaft is not mentioned in the Lubrication section of the manual either.

However I just got a 1947-54 GMC 100-400 service manual and it is much better and more detailed than the Chevy manual, wish I had one years ago. I can't find an online copy but reprints are available.
That manual clearly states to lube the cross shaft with engine oil every 1,000 miles.

Grigg

Awesome Grigg, thanks for confirming

Lots of work done this morning. Pulled 3 leaves out of the rear lead packs and 2 out of the front!

Here's a picture of the new stance.

More work done today! Got the passenger half of the new floor pans installed.

Here's a picture of the passenger side welded in.

I went and did some more picking today and picked up quite a bit of goodies! I got:

• All of the inner windshield trim
• both inner door window trim pieces
• downdraft vent tube
• matching ignition and glove box locks with key
• pedal pads
• battery hold down bracket
• seat rails/sliders
• heater fresh air delete plate
• cigarette lighter delete button
• a side-view mirror bracket

Check it out. Picture of the goods!

I haven't posted in a while but that doesn't mean work hasn't been getting done!


Both floor pan halves welded in.

Both floor pan halves welded in.

Seat (non-stock) installed on original runners.

HELP: I have the opportunity to purchase a 47-48 refurbished gas tank for cheap. I understand these mounted under the bed before they moved them into the cab. Will this work on my '51 rather easily? Tried a few searches and came up empty.

If you also get the brackets it could/should work.
Keep in mind that there are different sizes of frame mounted tanks, you may only be able to fit the smallest that were mounted inside the frame, used for the pickups. Most anything other than a pickup had the tank mounted outside the frame and I think were longer.

This might help a little.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0802.htm

Thanks Grigg. This is from a pickup. Are there varying sizes for the pickups or just between cars and pickups?

I think the size varies between pickup with pickup bed, other trucks without pickup bed (mounted outside frame) and buses, larger and still outside frame.

You could do some more research in the literature and parts books to find out all the differences and where used.. However I think at this point safe to say you can fit a between the frame fuel tank from an earlier model AD pickup under your later AD pickup.
Keep the tank in the cab and with two tanks you get twice the range. I would like to do this on my 51, keep the original and add another tank.

Grigg

I am not recommending this, but the panel-body Advance-Design trucks have the fuel tank between the frame rails. Those tanks are basically like the 1947/48 pickup tanks.

Jim Carter sells a repo panel-body tank and I think he sells mounting straps?

Thanks Grigg and tclederman. I appreciate the advice!

Installed a new cowl vent handle/brace last night with a good knob and adjusted the mechanism to work properly. Also put in a matching ignition lock cylinder to the glove box for which I have the key.

I also pulled my gauges last night for rebuilding/freshening up (new needle, decals and gaskets coming from Jim Carter). I know the oil pressure gauge works & i put the bulb from the temp. gauge into a pot of hot water and confirmed it works. I also put a multi-meter on the amp. and fuel gauge and both are functional. Waiting on my replacement speedo needle and decal kit and then these will be going back together looking as good as new!

Picture of Speedo.

Picture of Oil/Temp/Amp/Fuel Gauge.

Assembled May 11, 1951

Original Warning Tag on back of fuel gauge.

Disassembled Speedo for cleaning, painting, decals and new needle.

Disassembled oil/temp/amp/fuel gauge cluster.

Was able to go pickup some more parts last night.

I got this '47-'48 original gas tank that has been restored:

Question: Can the filler neck unbolted and removed? I'd like to customize this filler neck to make an upward bend rather than outward thru the side of the pickup.

I got this complete original & complete Bench Seat.

I got this 2nd original bench seat frame:

Original Bench Seat Frame

Question: What is an original bench seat frame worth? I'll only need one of these and will be selling the other.

I have not tried, but I expect the filler neck is not only bolted on but also soldered.

Grigg - Do you think it's the same solder as I would use to say sweat pipes in my house?

Yes, I think so... but again I have not tried to unsolder one. If I were to put one together I'd use normal solid core 50/50 solder.

What's wrong with the filler coming out between cab and bed as original, it's a pretty clean solution?

Grigg

Thanks Grigg. I'm retro-fitting this onto a 1951 chevy and I don't think I'd like the look of another filler neck sticking out of the side of my pickup. I'm instead looking at having it come up thru the bed with a flush mount filler cap.

Lots of custom sort of trucks use fillers in the floor of the bed, that's not for me.
What happens when you actually use the truck, have stuff in the bed and run low on fuel? Some time or another it's going to be a hassle.

Were it my truck and decision I'd be OK with an original tank that fits and functions as intended and just use it. It will look proper because it was proper for one year of the AD trucks. Any other solution for the filler is more head scratching, time, effort and likely more money for what real gain?
If this were not about an original tank then sure you'd have to do something and figure out a suitable functional solution. In this case that solution can be a factory solution, already solved for you.

There are countless ways to build a truck and solve most any problem, you should suit yourself, your truck.
My 48 I intended to be simple and practical and it will to some extent. However I wanted and implemented a lot of improvements which all take time and effort, and the truck is still not done, turned out not as simple as I imagined. That ongoing experience has given me a better perspective on my current 1 ton project truck, keep it simple, dead simple, and keep it practical. That's my take on things lately for what it's worth. ~2¢

Grigg

I'm with Grigg, it's OK if you are just 'carrying air', but those long distance trips in the future with camping stuff, chairs, cooler, etc, that bed fill is going to be a hassle. In fact with that bed fill you will be hard pressed not to spill gas every single time, minimum is having a shop rag or two at all times, where do you store that gas dripped rag...in the cab, no, in the bed of the truck flying around, yes.

Thank for your thoughts Cosmo and Grigg. You've given me some certain food for thought.

While I continue to contemplate the filler neck decision, I have gone ahead and mounted the tank. I know it's hard to see in the photos but there is rubber between each strap and the tank, as well as the frame and the tank to prevent any premature wear.

Pictures from tailgate view.

I also installed my original seat and outside of needing some stuffing/padding, it looks pretty good!