The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1946 2-Ton Chevrolet

Just bought a 1946 Chevrolet 2-ton grain truck with a dump bed for my son and I to fix up together, been browsing the forum and many others for several days now.

I don't see a way to attach pictures so i'll have to upload some to a hosting site i guess.

The truck appears nearly all original (no hack jobs anyways) no major dents except drivers side hood looks like someone sat on it!! and NO rust! only missing a couple pieces.

I found on the front of the block forward of the fuel pump the cast numbers 3703414 which seems to be a 261? 54-56?
I cant read the numbers by the starter unless i take it off it looks like. Today I pre-oiled the engine, turned it by hand with the valve cover off and saw everything moving and oil coming out so i hooked up a battery and stepped on the switch, it cranks but i had no spark, i'm off today to get a coil and some points and plugs, etc. It needs a new water pump too it leaks water from the bottom of the pump.

I've read that everything on this motor is the same as a 235? as far as pumps and gaskets, etc, is that correct?

Is there anywhere that has diagrams of these trucks kind of like LMC truck does for later year trucks? I'm going for a mainly original restoration and not having dealt with these trucks before I'm trying to find a more visual reference for how everything is stock, like how cab seals go in, etc.

I need all new glass, do auto glass places still cut glass to fit or would i be better off buying a pre made set? (i have the originals)

anyone know the name of the sheet metal piece that goes in between the hoods on the front and holds the center hinge? Its missing on my truck and not knowing what its called makes it even more difficult to find!

any other tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated, I'll try and upload some picture links as soon as i can.

JLM,

Congrats on the 2-ton. Will be anxious to see it.

Yea, we don't have actual images in the thread ( here's why -- we are even one of the folks who pay per bytes).

Once you get a photo hosting site set up, it's easy to do the link. And if you need help, just holler. The IT short bus has some help with doing it, too.

We've got a lot of people in here who can help you with the other questions. We have a pretty enthusiastic Big Bolt group.

Welcome.

Peggy M

JLM, I believe that the 261 has different enough parts to not be interchangeable. I think that the water pumps are different.

As far as diagrams? You could look on eBay for an assembly/parts manual. These are original or copies of the originals and sometimes can bring upwards of $200. I would suggest looking at some of the parts websites. A lot of time when you look for replacement parts it makes it a little more clear where those parts go.

You can also buy glass templates from some of the online parts places. I did this and had my local glass guys cut the glass and then they temper it. I think you can also find replacement glass on eBay, but it isn't the easiest thing to ship.

Not sure what the front hood hold down bracket divider thingy would be called. As I understand they can be a little hard to find, which translates into $$.

Please visit the sticky threads at in this section about wheels, tires and brakes. Lots of good info.

Good luck with your project.

JLM,
Regarding the glass, if you have the originals, many glass shops will cut new glass using your old ones for a template. That is one of the benefits of an old truck with flat glass. When you have that done, be sure you get glass of the same thickness as the originals. The windshield and rear cab glass reside in rubber gaskets made for the original thickness. Most people would recommend gaskets made by Steele which you can order from them or some vendors carry Steele products.
Kent

Thanks everyone, still havent figured out pictures the pictures yet!

I was mistaken the truck is actually a 1.5 ton

Still couldn't get any fire to the engine this weekend either, so i started taking some parts off the truck, grille fenders, etc...didnt get far though...appears the bottom of the grille is riveted in??? and portions of the fender are also riveted? that sure make things a little tougher...

I was really hoping most 235 parts were interchangeable...no one seems to have heard of a 261, let alone have parts for it, i couldnt even find an auto parts store that carried a coil or points or anything like that!

Here's what you can do to check the distributor:
Simply gap the points at .016" at the cam peaks. Make sure an Ohm meter will see contact when points are closed, the continuity will break when open. Many times new points are so corroded you need to file them before they will make contact. Then Ohm the wire from the coil to the distributor. The best overall Ohm test is from the coil connection to the steel plate on the points. Open is open, closed shows continuity.

I like to use a Bosch Blue coil on almost anything with points. You should order a new set of points and condenser and either get a Bosch blue coil or go to your local autocrats store and have them order a coil for a 1973 VW Beetle. No resistance wires or external resistors to worry about. Clean all the connections and do a wire from the battery to the coil and another wire from the negative side of the coil to the points. Eliminating as many possibilities as you can.

Next the sheet metal. I can tell you that you do not need to grind off or drill any rivets. Everything will come off with bolts. You may break quite a few and have to drill them out, but all the sheet metal is meant to come off and go on with bolts.

I think in this order... Hood. Hood filler at the very front (small piece that holds the front edge of the two hood halves). Panel in front of radiator. Grill. Lower splash pan. filler panels inside of the grill. Fenders. Inner fenders. Radiator support. Radiator. And as most Chiltons Manuals would say.. " Install in reverse order"

You can see some build pics in the link form my signature. What part of Texas are you in? I'll be in San Antonio in a week and may have some tim in the evenings if you are anywhere close to come and take a look.

I'm in Justin TX which is a bit north of DFW, right near the Texas Motor Speedway, so unfortunately San Antonio isnt very close!!

I rechecked the gap on my points today and put the old distibutor cap back on ( it seems to fit tighter than the new one I bought) and got the truck to fire off on starting fluid right away!

the gas tank isnt hooked up and the water pump leaks so i wasnt able to do a long run on it, but it was sure nice to hear it run a bit!

I ordered a water pump online but i think i may have gotten the wrong one, the longer shaft one, we'll see when it comes in...

I was going to order a carb rebuild kit as well but im having trouble identifying my carter YF carb, it has no numbers on it!! so another mystery to figure out..

I want to get the engine running well before i tear the truck apart completely!

Ok let's see if this works, also a picture in there of my son with my dads 1946 GMC

http://s1011.photobucket.com/user/mrnkc130/library/Mobile%20Uploads

JLM,

Your link didn't work for me...

Mike B

Me either.

Don't use the fuel tank without cleaning it thoroughly or replacing.

As said above, no rivets need to be cut to take apart.

Ya, didn't work for me either. Would like to see,I have a 41.

What makes you think it's a 1 1/2 ton, & not a 2 ton like you first stated ? If it has bolts holding the front bearing dust covers on, it's a 2 ton.

Ok let's try it again...

http://s1011.photobucket.com/user/mrnkc130/slideshow/1946

The title says 1.5 ton, but yes it has bolt on dust covers looks like.

Did these come with clearance lights on the cab? I've seen pictures of some with 1 on each side of the roof and mine has the holes.

I ordered a new water pump and carb rebuild kit (carter yf 787sa) and a radiator off eBay..mine appears to be full of gunk..they were only $159 for a new aluminum radiator so hopefully it's decent quality

I put some brake fluid in and looks like I've got brakes, dumped the tranny fluid and filled with some 90w gear oil.
When my parts come in I really wanted to run the motor for a bit up to temp and maybe take it for a ride around the farm before I tear the truck apart.
I'm trying not to rush it but it's tempting!!
Wife growing more annoyed by boxes that keep showing up on the porch...

I'll try and get some pictures, but my grill is riveted at the bottom for sure, don't know why someone would have done that but they did!!

The bottom of the grill was riveted to the valance from the factory.

The inner front fenders were also riveted to the outer front fenders.

These rivets are often found to have been replaced with machine screws by owners over the years.

It will be a 2 ton regardless of what the title says. I've had 2 ton trucks, that the title stated were 5 ton.

That's a great looking truck! Did you finish it already or do you have two? I see a Black one and a shiny Green one that looks completed?

JLM, you have a very nice looking original looking truck! If it were me, I'd clean it up and enjoy as is. I've restored old trucks but the unrestored trucks are more fun and cheaper. Also, around here the original trucks seem to attract more attention and conversation than the shiny trucks.

BTW, the 235 & 261 share most all external parts.

the green GMC is my Dads, the black Chevy is mine.

MY truck is in need of restoration big time! Im going to keep it mainly original. I'm not going to try and go all out original since it already has a 261 in it, and it need a new radiator so i bought an aluminum one, but wheels, tires, brakes and general appearance im going to stay orignal, just mainly cleaning it up, repainting and replacing worn out parts.

I got it running a couple days ago after putting a new water pump and carb rebuild and points, plugs, etc. But when i tried to bleed the brakes i could only get fluid out of 1 bleed screw on the front wheel, no big deal though. once i get the engine running well i'll tear the truck apart, clean up engine and tranny and repaint, probably put a new clutch in it since its apart, then blast and repaint the frame and get brakes working, then start body work and painting and reassembling.

i'm trying to take my time and not be making trips to the store everyday for parts and tools but its hard not to!

I hope with everyones help (with info!) to get this thing cleaned up and running down the road soon!

I also found out my dump bed works, so i'll clean that up and put new wood in it, etc. Its a pretty neat bed, all square head bolts and nuts, there is a ton of bolts holding the wood on, all evenly spaced and staggered, must have taken forever! they just dont build stuff like that anymore, nowadays it would just have a bunch of randomly shot self tapping screws in it.