The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop oil change with add on filter

Howdy Folks.....I'm thinking about installing the manifold mounted oil filter can on a 235. At oil change time how is the canister drained ? There must be a check valve in the bottom of canister and so there will be a quart of hot dirty oil to get out. Am I missing something obvious ? Thanks for all comments.
Les

The metering orfice is about halfway up the standpipe in the center of the filter canister. Once the oil-soaked filter element is removed, a turkey baster or other squeeze bulb device is the simplest way to remove the residual oil. Poke a couple of throwaway rags into the housing and stir them around with a big screwdriver to soak up any residue and/or sludge that accumulates in the bottom of the canister.
Jerry

I use a hand pump small transfer pump to get the remaining oil out. Tractor supply sells them for 14.00 bucks and you can use it to fill transmission and rear
end oil also.

My Fram canister has a drain plug on the bottom.

Mine too. All of them that I have, have a drain plug near the bottom. Then a shop towel to wipe it out. If you do not have one, it would not be hard to drill one and then weld a threaded round nut to the outside for a plug. The problem with a setup that does not have this, is psychological. People don't change the oil filter as often due to the mess it creates.

The 1/16th restrictor is very small too. This could get plugged really easy. I always push a piece of safety wire down there to make sure its clear. All of this is why I went to the trouble of engineering a spin-on filter bracket system for both Full Flow and Bypass systems.

http://devestechnet.com/Home/FullFlowOil

I'm wondering about the feasibility of engineering a spin-on filter which fits inside of the can. Quite a bit of room in there.
Carl

There would still be major spillage during a filter change unless you mounted the canister upside down. Why swap to a less-efficient filter just for the novelty of having a self-contained can?
Jerry

I thought about cutting out a hinged door and welding on the top for the spin on platform, plumbing it from the sides but concealing the hinges and closure proved problematic. Its always better when more than one person adds their ideas to resolve any issues. That takes cooperation, not petty egotistical whining from the usual suspect.

Todays spin-on filters are todays technology in filtering oil using the technology of today. It's as good as it gets and plays a big part in the amazing mileage we get out of our engines. Although there is nothing whatsoever wrong with keeping things stock, if you are looking for cleaner oil, easier oil changes, etc. it's natural you are looking for modern answers. If you are NOT looking for a better solution, that's great, but then there is no need to submit some idiotic retort. How hard can it be?

I use a turkey baster and transfer to an old jug with the top cut off to get the oil out, and then wipe out the bottom with a rag if there seems to be anything in there I can't get out with the baster thats worth the effort to use the rag. At least in my filter canister, the part you wipe out is on the dirty side of the filter. A few drops of the old oil isn't the end of the world, theres a bunch of residual in the rest of the engine after a drain anyhow, and the rag can get messy quickly. However, just getting the filter out usually ends up making a mess, so whats a few more rags?

To answer your question directly (after someone else felt compelled to barge in with her offensive drivel ...), I don't know.
I don't really understand the logic in messing with these antiquated, inferior, money pit vehicles at all.
I guess I get lost in the nostalgia of it all.
Thank you for the wake up call.
Carl