The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay EZ Wiring harness issues

Hi Stovebolters

Trying to get the electrical finished so I can put a battery in it and see if it will fire (and not burn to the ground). I bought an EZ wire 12 circuit harness. I ended up with 6 extra wires hangin around....and they don't seem to hook into anything. I chased the temp sensor wire last night and it doesn't go into the fuse block that came with the harness....it runs through the hole in the firewall and that's it....
my goal is to find a circuit to run my back up light circuit but these extra wires don't hook into the fuse block...excepting a wire marked "radio"...
the extra circuits are as follows:
1) Temp Sender (green wire)
2) Oil Sender (lt blue wire)
3) AC compressor (black wire)
4) Fan Fan (grey wire)
5) Tach (purple wire)

why do these wires not go into the fuse block to pick up power???...all they do is snake through the hole in the firewall and lay on the floor on the cab floor...no connection in between...this truck has me scratching my chin again...something so simple as a 62 year old truck and it is keeping me awake a night....doesn't seem right does it???

any insight from you professionals would be great...

MikeC

MikeC,

If you have/need the circuits that you asked about, you do not have "something so simple as a 62 year old truck":

1) Temp Sender (green wire)
2) Oil Sender (lt blue wire)
3) AC compressor (black wire)
4) Fan Fan (grey wire)
5) Tach (purple wire)

None of those circuits were/are standard equipment on a 1953 Chevrolet truck (62 years old). Do you have those components on your truck?

You might want to describe/list what electrical equipment you have. Maybe someone familiar with the EZ wire 12 circuit system will be able to help?

When you refer to the fuse block, presumably that is the EZ wire fuse block?
Whatever EZ wire fuse-block "circuit" you are not using could be used for your backup lights.

So, I have no experience with this brand. But, wire is wire. From the list provided, and the description(12 circuit) one could decide on the following checks. 2015-62=53? Are you working on a 53 Chevy of some kind? Truck? No I am not a smart [censored](well not all of the time) I just need to know. Is there any power to the harness at this time? It helps if you use an Ohm meter or a Volt meter. Assuming no power(Safety first) Use an Ohm meter to find continuity from the fuse block to either the AC compressor wire or the Fan fan wire. The fuse for each should be marked. Got continuity? Good that is power. Use to run the backup light switch circuit. No? Check for continuity to the key switch. Good, that is power. Use as needed(should be on the "ignition/run" post.) Make notes, add a label. It will help later. Best, add a fuse. Test with a power supply(charger works) before you put the battery in. Others will have some suggestions. We are friendly most of the time. Enjoy the project and let us know how it goes. The wires for the temp sender(1). Oil sender(2). Tach(5) won't be used if you have original Temp gauge(mechanical), Oil gauge( also mechanical). No Tach in the original AD truck. You could add one...+ side of the coil to Tach, light to dash...so where is the Tach wire in your kit hooked up? I don't know. If you have an inline 6 and no AC I would use that wire. You might save the Fan, fan for later use? I do hope this helps.

Mike, if you have all electric gauges those loose wires (temp, oil and tach) go to the gauges' pole then there should be a red/white wire labeled "Gauge PWR" that runs back to the fuse box.
There should be two poles on the gauges (temp and oil) marked (+) positive and (-) negative this red/white wire is a feeder (power) wire from the fuse box and is branched out to the gauges so it goes on the (+) positive poles of the electric gauges the (-) negative poles get good grounded wires.
The wires (temp and oil) that are just "hanging around" would go to the third connection (call it the info, input or data...whatever) pole on the electric gauges.

Just so you know, an ammeter is NOT the same as a volt meter. There is a good write up in the "Tech Tips" here on the board.

Tim

No matter what harness you have if you just want to know how to wire back up lights: Hopefully you have an extra fuse. If so, that fuse should already be hot on one side. Wire other side of fuse to one side of back up switch, other side of back up switch to light bulbs. Put a fuse in the slot...Done.

Let me know if you don't have extra fuse....but you should have if you have extra unused wires. Pick any unused fuse. Most of the fuses are supplied power from the ignition switch.

If you have extra wires, coil them up with tie wrap and stash up under dash....or disconnect and save in a drawer.
I can't tell by your post if you JUST need one more thing (the B/U lights) or other circuits. If so, let's take one at a time.
My question is, were you supplied with a schematic or wiring diagram? If so, what does it show for temp gauge hook up and etc.? (that should be the EZ part of the EZ kit). If you call them, I am sure they will guide you on exactly how to wire any component that the kit was designed for.
Basic gauge hook up, as described by others already:
If the wires "coming thru firewall" are coming from the sender, they go to sender terminal on gauge. If they are from senders they DO NOT GET POWER! The gauge has a positive terminal which gets hot from a fuse, which gets hot from the ignition switch, which gets hot from battery direct. The ground for a gauge is usually by a path thru the mounting bracket to the dash to the chassis. Some gauges also have a light which is wired to dash lights, I believe.
I would assume your fuse block was pre wired and has wires that need terminated to switches and gauges to supply fused power. These wires are marked as to what they go to or color coded to the schematic or wiring diagram.
Don't get frustrated, just do one circuit at a time, we will help you. Just make sure you keep up with your post.

I am dumb as dirt when it comes to this sparky stuff....what baffles me the most is why would they give me 5 extra circuits that go no where....they are blank wires on both ends...they don't tie into the fuse panel that came with the EZ wire harness...the only one extra that I found that went back into the fuse panel is the radio circuit....so what I did last night was take that one wire "radio" and run it into the back of a toggle switch...then I spent the rest of the evening snaking a write from the other side the toggle switch back to a wire that is marked "back-up" light on the rear tail light assembly....So the plan is to be able to run the rear back up lights off this toggle switch...here is a photo of the "new" tail lights I will be using on this truck...
old and new

Still wish I knew why they have 5 circuits that don't pick power up from the fuse panel...

Thanks again for all the help...

gotta get a battery in this thing and put power to it...praying for no smoke...may have to push it outside and aim a fire extinguisher at too...

MikeC

"Universal" kit. Covers most simple stuff. Extra wires are for things an even more simple truck does not have. Stock AD has no AC, no power windows, no door locks, no turn signals and the heater was an option. Radio was an option as well. So we get, Ignition, Headlights, Park lights, Tail lights, Brake lights, Dash lights, Horn, and a battery cable starter. That is about it. Simple things our trucks they is.

Hopefully you carefully read your EZ Wiring direction booklet. If not read it again. It explains excess and loose wiring AFTER you have separated all wires into categories and BUNDLED them.
You may need to remove wires from the fuse panel because you don't need them or clip the ends. It has been my experience that they do provide enough excess connectors to the fuse panel to route the needed wiring. Basically you are wiring from a gauge or device to the fuse panel, out the panel to what ever the pick up is.

I am afraid that is not correct. Everybody needs to read everything again. It does sound like he has hooked up a B/U light "correctly". It should be operated by position of the transmission mechanism/linkage..... but that's OK.

Perhaps a call to EZ Wire Technical Assistance 386-437-1077 x10 might help (?).

I think Steve_H has his final question covered. Mike has wired his Back Ups and we are waiting for a battery. He is ready to dial 911.

Haha. OK.

thanks guys...here is what I left over...

extras

Still not sure what I am doing...I am trying to figure out a a battery for it...went out and bought a race car Sunday...just happens the battery fits down in the hole..

I really wish I had a local auto electrical guy to be on standby for when I hook the battery up...I can see the smoke already...

Anybody know a NAPA part number for a 12 volt battery with the terminal on the correct side???..something that I can use on this truck???

Thanks in advance....

MikeC

Shakespeare said " Nothing that is fused will burn".
I would roll up and store those extra wires inside, under dash, away from motor heat and the elements. Pull them back thru the grommet, roll in a 8" circle and hang em.

Oh my gosh...I had the fireman and his son to sort out the EZ wire rats nest I have created....I had it so screwed up you would not believe it...by the end of the afternoon...we actually got it to burp a little with some lawn mower gas in a small cap...

tonight the saga continues as I sort out what he told me to change out...

so what is up with the horn wiring???.....EZ Wire gave me 1 wire for the horn...the 1953 Chevy truck has two wire connections????...so what do I do with the second stud that is on the back side of the horn???

Totally lost again...

any insight would be great...

MikeC

The horns are wired with one ground wire running from horn neg to the mast bearing. This bearing has a wire incorporated into it. There should be a connector to connect wire coming from horn to the mast bearing wire, coming out bottom of column. The pos horn terminal gets wired to the pos on ammeter. I think any fused hot will be OK. Do you have a horn relay? I thought we were talking 1951 1 ton? What exactly is this truck and what year is it?

Hi Bartamos

My truck is a December 1952 1 ton truck...I am assuming it was originally registered as a 1953.

So I gotta find the wire coming out of the steering column mast...I ran the wire as I was told in the EZ wire kit which is fused ( I assume again)to one wire on the horn itself....so I run the old chevy wire that I find coming of the mast to the other side of the horn right?

I am so bad at wiring...funny thing both my father and my son were and are electrical guys...me....I grind.....I weld...I repeat...

MikeC

That sounds right. If horn terminals are not marked. (It may be obvious because one is not isolated) Test continuity of terminals (not hooked up) to see which one has continuity to horn body. That's the ground and the other is the hot. Use a multimeter set on OHMS.
No one is good at everything. I wish I knew how to weld like you.

Hi Bartamos

I looked at the way EZ wire had instructed me to wire this horn and I ran the wire off the steering mast to the horn relay located on the new EZ wire fuse block and then from there I ran the wire out of the fuse panel to one of the studs on the horn....so I got to scratching my chin again(hate those times)...to me it should work...so I looked at the original cloth covered wire and it appeared broken...hmmm...took the horn button off and it was full of desert grass (this was a ranch truck from New Mexico)....cleaned it out...pulled the plate under it and it was missing one of the rubber bumper on the bottom side and it was rusty...pulled the steering wheel...more chin scratching...got the brass bearing out eventually....thank GOD for Jim Carter truck parts...another $75.00 in parts...maybe then we can have a horn that works...

MikeC

P.S. I went to welding school because I race oval track cars...they always need something stuck back together...