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#1124498 09/16/2015 5:49 PM
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'Bolter
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1948 3100.

This has been covered and I have the shop manual but I have an aftermarket hood. The sides overhang the fenders and are raised like a snarling dog.

Has anyone found this when reassembling your truck and what did you do? Is shimming out either the front or back of the fenders an option to help in this situation? I've read about shimming the front. But the back?

Thank you


Dennis
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From what I've read, I'd be happy if all I had to do WAS shim it...


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~ Peggy M
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Hi Peggy. Thank you. This tech tip is where I started. I try to read it daily and then go look at what I need to do. I just don't understand why the hood fits the cab but is wider than where it needs to be to fit on the fender. The fenders seem to need to be shimmed but then there would be a gap. Nobody suggests or recommends this shimming. I just don't get it?

Thank you again


Dennis
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I'm afraid the key to the problem is as stated - an after market hood.
You may have to do some reshaping to fix the crown of the hood or to draw the sides in by modifying the radius in the upper side bends.
Find another 47-53 in your area and measure the width of the stock hood at the front, middle and back.

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Exactly what I was thinking.

I would like to ask if someone has a hood off a truck to measure from the back at the v (through the inside) to th front point. This is because I'm not sure if the one I have is short, or bull nosed. If this is the case I can possibly push this back and adjust accordingly.

Thank you


Dennis
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Originally Posted by oldbluetruck
... The fenders seem to need to be shimmed but then there would be a gap.
Thank you again

How much of a gap are you talking about?


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About a shim. We're shims ever used at the back of the front fenders? Or would there be too much wiggle and wear?


Dennis
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I have the same problem with fitting the hood. Unfortunately my old beast has been hit just ahead of the left hand door. The firewall has a slight bulge in it and there are copious amounts of bondo in place. As it would cost a fortune to get everything back in alignment Im contemplating removing the left half of the hood cutting the flange and taking an appropriate slice out of the hood at that point and rewelding the flange back in place. The weld would be covered by the cover strip in the centre of the hood. Id have to be careful that the metal didnt warp.
Thoughts appreciated.

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Stan T and oldbluetruck ,

Get in touch with Gus (DADS50). He had a write up on how he adjusted the sides of his hood. I think he said something about using ratcheting tie down straps and pulling the sides in???

Tim


"Pay attention to the details! It ALWAYS pays off."

1949 Chevrolet 3100 Series 1/2 ton Pickup
1964 Chevrolet C10 (Ol' Yella) (SOLD)
1958 Chevrolet Biscayne 2 door (SOLD)
1970 VW Beetle
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I have aligned a fair number of AD hoods/front clips with mismatched parts.
I always start with mounting the hood with ALL of the fender bolts (and every other bolt on the front clip) VERY loose and lower the fenders as far as possible.
If you do not do that, you will have a bad day (more likely several bad days).
Leave the inner fender-to-toeboard bolts off completely. This will allow you to lower the fender further out of the way, (Not in The Manual, that is my suggestion.)
I read The Manual and wrote down the directions on adjusting the hood on paper, in my own words. This aided greatly in my comprehension of the process.
Once you get the hood adjusted, the hood should rest tightly against the cowl seal. When they say to "apply downward pressure on the rear of the hood while tightening the bolts", you will need an assistant.
Once you make it that far, get back with us if you have problems
getting to this point.
There are adjustments at the rear hood bracket that change the contour of the rear edge of the hood, if that is part of your problem.
Carl

Last edited by 52Carl; 09/22/2015 3:37 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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It would appear that DADS50 is over the limit on PMs.
The straps sound like a good idea though.

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I like the idea. Now I need to go down to the garage and see if it will work on my hood and how it can be done. Thank you


Dennis
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Do as 52Carl has suggested above. The hood must fit tightly on the cowl seal especially in the middle. This will bring the sides in to fit the contour of the cowl. I found the adjustment angle of the hinges to be critical. For my hood they had to be as low as possible, and adjusted with the top section of the hinge back and the bottom forward. (Link Below) My hood sides were almost ½ inches wider at the cowl before correcting and are now perfectly flush. To answer your question about hood length, I measure 51 inches from the ā€œVā€ underneath to the front point.
Don
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums...ng%20Boards/IMG_4584.2sm_zpsr7cmx5yf.jpg

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Thank you. Top hinge bolt back and bottom hinge bolt forward. A and the sides of my hood will be drawn in?


Dennis
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