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| | | Forums66 Topics128,147 Posts1,056,798 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,842 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,842 | As soon as I pick who's going to paint my truck, I'm going to need to start preparing it. I am not going to do the body work since I'm all thumbs in this field. I'll have the shop take the body down to bare metal and then start the body work, etc.
My preparation will be to start removing as much as possible such as chrome, glass, rubber,bed wood, etc. Since I'm going to have the interior painted as well, the gauges and other interior pieces will also be removed. I just need to keep the truck somewhat driveable for the shop.
Assuming the shop will be needing to get behind the bed to attack the back of the cab, I assume I'll need to either heavily loosen or disassemble the entire bed. Not knowing yet if the shop will accept a truck in pieces is a stumbling block. I'd love for them to paint the outside of the bed with the rear fenders removed. This will allow me to then install new fender welt. Yes the bedwood will be discarded and repaced later with new wood.
The PO put in these ungodly speaker holes in the door panels which will be filled in with pieces from an extra door panel supplied by our infamous MT of Arizona. The shop will first (I assume) paint the interior, then the outside. The engine compartment could use a new paint job but I don't see how this will be done properly unless I pull the engine. I think this will be saved for another day.
If anyone has any comments/recommendations, I'd be greatful.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 68 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 68 | I have just done this exact thing. The way I did it was to loosen the bed to frame bolts enough to where all we did was take em out when at the shop. I brought the fenders, tail gate, and bumpers first then dropped off the truck. This saved time from having to do it at the shop. They painted the bed and all fenders etc first then the truck. I would however see if they will do the interior first as it is easier to close off the interior with tape and paper while painting the exterior to avoid overspray. Do it opposite and you run the risk of getting exterior over spray on freshly painted interior. Even though you are not doing the engine compartment, get them to cover the engine and paint the underside of the hood. Good Luck | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,842 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,842 | new old 53, Thanks for your reply. When are you going to have photos of your NEW OLD 53 ????. Before and after shots ?
Did you have a local shop do it or a chain such as Miracle or Maaco ?
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 | You don't have to remove the fenders. I had it done on a VW bug once where I loosened all the fender bolts and took out the old welt. This allowed the fender to hang loose and they easily sprayed down in the crack. When I installed the new fender welt and tightened up the bolts it looked perfect.
Then again, you want to remove the whole interior. You are in for a bit of work. Get ready to not have your truck for a while.
54 3100 with 235 62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,842 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,842 | Tony M, Hope all is well with you over in the east bay. Yes I'm starting to realize the amount of work that I'll be into. Need to sweet talk the Mrs into having the garage for awhile, not so much while preparing for the paint job but more after the truck comes home. The latter will be very time consuming for I will not want to be in a hurry to simply throw it back together.
Both rear fenders are slightly torn where they connect to the running boards so removing them might be easier for the body man, but I'll let them make that decision.
I think it will be Forester Green with Black running boards. Very traditional.....
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 | Everything is great here. Though this near 100F weather is getting old fast.
Right now I am leaning towards the green with black running boards, front and rear bumpers and....fenders. Only semi traditional but I really like the look of the black fenders. And it really draws the running boards together with the fenders.
54 3100 with 235 62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 182 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 182 | CYMANA... If you haven't, get the book "TRUCK" "on rebuilding a worn-out pickup and other post-technological adventures" By John Jerome. No how-to's, but some good laughs. I think you will like it! | | |
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