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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,083 Posts1,055,967 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 67 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 67 | When I get my welder I am going to tear into my truck to do a bunch of bodywork. The biggies on the list are the outer sections of the floorboards, the rocker panels, floor supports, and rear cab corners. The truck is a '65 Chevy. For the rockers and floor supports, I will be buying the full replacements rather than the cover style. What is the best sequence for replacing all of the parts? I realize that the cab should still be mounted to the frame, but after cutting some of this stuff out what will be supporting the cab? I am assuming I will need to support the cab from underneath with blocks or something. What about welding in temporary supports inside the cab to keep it from twisting. Where do you think I should start?
Aaron | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 662 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 662 | On my 52, I went rockers first, then floor & suppports, toe & cowl, and finsihed with cab corners. With everything cutaway, I used 2x4s bolted to the firewall and resting on the frame to support the cab. Before you cut, measure everything and write it down. I screwed up, got my floor pans too far forward by 1/4" - 1/2", and in turn, the trans cover didn't fit right and the clutch arm hit the toe/floor joint. Nothing shears and a hammer couldn't fix, but it would have been easier to do it right. Good thing it's not for show. http://www.homestead.com/chuckthetruck/page3.html | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 90 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 90 | thanks Chuck. Those pictures are truly inspiring. I have the same tasks ahead of me and would like mine to come out as nice as your's look. Whose panels did you use and how much beatn 'n bangn was required? Cheers, Terry '53 1/2 ton | | | | | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | Maybe you can use some of my tricks. Before anything gets cut off doing body work i get the doors repaired.I change the pins if they need it and get them solid .Try to aligne the tops to fit good in the cab frame . Now put the floor jack under some part of the front of the cab were you can jack it up if the cab mounts are bad.Try to get the door line even. After all the heights look correct on the cab mounts to frame, i cut some straps and weld them from the cab to the frame some were were thay wont be in the way to hold the cab steady with out the rubber mounts in. After everything looks nice i remove the door and measure the opening and weld in and x to do the floors and rockers. I tack every thing.Than put the door back on and check for alignment.If its good you can finish up the spot welds. Dont try to weld the floors and rockers in .Spots are how the factory did it for a reason. Seam seal everything when your done. Drill small holes in panels to spot weld(my air flanger does it for me) Just take your time and try to put it back together in the stages that it came apart. You will also have to do work on your panels.I have never seen and aftermarket panel yet that fit correctly. They all need a little bit of work. | | |
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