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Fixing the old truck

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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 173
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Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: May 2013
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Taking manifold off of 216 to repair the original heat-riser and I'm debating doing a multi-carb set up. Looking to see if this is worth doing? I hear these multi carb set up make the engine run smoother, a slightly better throttle response and improved MPG!

My concerns are:

1) Are the claims I've stated above accurate?
2) I do not plan to use a duel exhaust manifold; I plan to stick with the original single exhaust manifold if possible??
3)How reliable/ finicky are these multi carb set ups..a reliable driver is desired--do they require constant tuning?? I plan to use the carbs designed for the 1940 216 engine (not sure the model #, sorry)
4) What performance differences/ characteristics are there between the 2x1/ 3x1 vs stock 1 set up. What can I expect from each? (would like to maintain or improve my current MPG)

FYI **I live in the mountains so pulling on extremely steep hills is part of the terrain here** Truck is a 1940 original in all specs and design,I plan to maintain that with the exception of this upgrade

OK those are my concerns and goals with this project, lets hear what you think, Thanks everyone grin

Last edited by heavy40chevy; 08/24/2015 1:26 AM.
Joined: Feb 2004
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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How much hair do you have? If you're not bald, get a close shave now- - - - -it will save a lot of anguish and pain from pulling it all out.

Dual (or triple) carbs on a stovebolt are nothing but eye candy. They're totally useless, and you'll have nothing but problems, particularly on a 216. Duals- - - -maybe- - - -on a beaned-up 261. The Corvette 3-carb setup on the 235 was mostly for show, and that one was the product of major R&D work by the GM engineering department. I can't think of anybody's 3-carb setup that will fit a truck, too much stuff in the way of the rear carb.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Buy a Carter YF single carb and you will have a smooth idle and plenty of carburetor.
If you really want more performance out of your truck, switch to a T-5 transmission and a 3.73 or a 3.90 rear end.
You will be amazed how this unleashes every single horse power in an inline six! You can still pull stumps, and cruise at 70 MPH. You may even be able to cruise at 70 MPH while dragging the stump.
How, you ask? Having 2 extra gears keeps you in the optimal power range of your engine at every shift.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Nov 2002
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Carburetion specialist
Carburetion specialist
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I LIKE multiple carb setups!

Having said that, AND read your parameters, don't do it!

With a perfectly stock engine, and dual stock carburetors, you can expect (IF YOU DO IT PERFECTLY):

(A) a slightly smoother runing engine
(B) maybe 5 extra horsepower at wide open throttle
(C) maybe 5~8 percent better fuel economy
(D) expenditure of several hundred dollars

Now, if you are LESS than perfect:

(A) a rougher than normal idle
(B) up to 10 LESS horsepower, expecially at part-throttle
(C) up to 25 percent LESS fuel economy
(D) expenditure of several hundred dollars

If you want to change exhaust, cam, ignition, and go with smaller carbs; you could see better results.

But I would agree with the gentleman (Carl) suggesting the transmission change (to a point, don't know about 70 MPH pulling the stump wink ).

And given your location, I would prefer a single original W-1 over the YF. The reason is your location. The W-1 has a mechanical power system while the YF has a vacuum power system. On a truck doing towing in the mountains, the mechanical system is superior (opinion).

Jon.


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
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Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Also need to provide carb heat of some sort, exhaust or water.


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by carbking
I LIKE multiple carb setups!



And given your location, I would prefer a single original W-1 over the YF. The reason is your location. The W-1 has a mechanical power system while the YF has a vacuum power system. On a truck doing towing in the mountains, the mechanical system is superior (opinion).

Jon.
Good point on the hills, Jon. I'm strictly a flatlander around here.
I will get back to you on dragging the stump at 70 MPH. smile
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
If you REALLY want to do it. Pull all the original stuff and put it in storage. Purchase aftermarket intake and dual exhaust and try it for a while. If you don't like it put the stock stuff back on and Craigslist the dual set up to recoup some of your expense.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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