The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine cutting out issue

This morning my 48 3100 with a 1960 235 and Rochester single carb started as usual but after about a mile it started cutting out. I pulled over and it died. But started up and ran fine during all my errands. I have not driven the truck since last Friday.

I recently read carbkings article on these carbs and modern gas. Is this the issue or did my float or needle stick? Was it something else?

TIA

Sounds like debris in the tank sloshing around and occasionally clogging the fuel outlet.
Modern Fuel related carburetor problems are usually not intermittent.
Carl

Hi Dennis, I had a similar problem with my stock 49, six volt truck. It started out as a very small miss in the spring ( once every 50 to 100 miles like I had turned off the ign switch and on again very fast) then about 3 weeks ago it stalled as I was starting to go uphill at a stop light, it was very hard to restart. when I got home I did the wiggle test, ie with the truck running I wiggled all the wires under the dash and under the hood, it did not stop but I got a big shock from the wire that runs from the distributor to the points at the distributor. I replaced both the coil and condenser, points were still at the right gap. When replacing the condenser I found the clamp around the old condenser was a little loose.( The ground for the condenser) After going for a 15 mile test drive I felt like that it was idling a bit smoother . Have Fun, Brian

Thank you Brian. I do carry a new condenser, will change it, and see how that works.

6 or 12 Volt? 12 Volt should have a "Ballast Resistor" They can break down and become intermittent. 6 Volt will not have or need one.
The coil might be letting go.
I run a fuel filter between the gas tank and the fuel pump. I run another one between the fuel pump and the Carburetor. Helps keep the crud out of the pump and the Carburetor.
Sticky needle and seat will cut out under a big load(Climbing a steep hill at speed) and get better when the load is less. And last but not least, the fuel pump may be unable to keep up at sustained high loads. That should keep you busy for a while.
Start with the Condenser as suggested above. While you are in the Dizzy look at the wire from the coil and the "plastic" that the screw to the points runs through. That can crack or crumble sometimes. Then look at the Ballast Resistor(if you have one). Then do the test for the pump, and last look at the Carb. Let us know what you find.

Last week I replaced my plug wires, the points and condenser for an igniter electronic ignition, gas cap, and the heat riser spring. Truck ran great and I have no idea which one did the trick.

Dennis, glad you are back on the road and trouble free.

My truck sat for a long time unused before I bought it. After I got it roadworthy it was running very nicely until I tried to go up a hill or run wide open, then it died. I took the fuel pump apart, it was full of rust gunk as was the filter. I opened up the carb and it was full of gunk in the float bowl. New fuel pump and filter, rebuilt the carb and scrubbed it clean. Fired up the truck and went on a ride and it died. Hauled it home, drained the gas tank, tore it out and looked inside - full of gunk balls and rust scale. Turned it upside down and got probably 2 cups of junk out of it. So bought a brand new tank and sending unit.

Hi Chad. It's good to hear you solve your problem. Sometimes the best fix is to go the distance and replace everything with new. Otherwise, you become like me - cheap and stuck on the side of the road with old stuff. I'm learning.