The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks 65 C10 4spd Clutch fork vibration

So I finally took my truck on it's first long drive after a pretty thorough frame on restoration. I noticed when I got home from a 40 mile drive that when idling in neutral with the clutch released I'm getting a throw out bearing type noise. When I looked at the area it looks like my clutch fork is vibrating. Could this be an adjustment issue? I did install a brand new throw out bearing when I assembled it. Any ideas? Otherwise the truck and inline 230 is running awesome! Thanks!

You should have about 1/2 to 1in. freeplay in the pedal before the TO brg. contacts the clutch fingers. You should have a return spring on the fork that pulls it back.

A worn fork pivot ball or fork retainer clip may cause noise. You have to determine if noise is vibration of linkage/fork or actual bearing noise. New pilot bearing/bushing?
From the web:
"Noise that occurs when the engine is idling in neutral and the clutch pedal is in the released position may indicate a worn transmission input shaft bearing."
Hopefully yours is just adjustment.

Thanks for the info guys. I hope it's not going to involve removing the engine again but if so I'll do it no prob. I'll try and adjust it first. The transmission on the truck as well as the whole truck has 47k original miles. I know this because it's been in the family since new. That's not guaranteeing that it's not the transmission bearing. I visually see the clutch fork vibrating. I'm thinking it's just an adjustment. This truck was disassembled for 20 years/long story but I put it together in 2012 and didn't really follow any special protocol when installing the clutch linkage/parts together. I just adjusted it to make it all look right together. The clutch return spring was missing so I put a new one in and attached it to the motor mount not knowing where it went? LOL.

Do you know for a fact that spring is the correct spring and not just one that you were able to fit?

Do you now know where the spring should go?

I do NOT know that. I looked around a local Napa and found a huge long clutch return spring in the Help section I think. I really don't know for sure it's set up correct but I know it's close as a nice member on here sent me pics of his all original 230 4spd setup so I had a pretty good idea. I haven't had a chance to mess with it this week but the more I think about it the more I think the adjustment is the issue which likely has the throw out bearing making contact where it should have the mentioned 1/2" to 1" of play that Wrenchbender Ret above here advised me of.

Update: So I adjusted the clutch linkage and repositioned the spring to the appropriate location according to some online research. The vibration and noise got much better. I eventually pinpointed my idle was way too fast also which almost but eliminated the problem; however, on a recent long drive I noticed that sometimes in high gear traveling down the highway the throwout bearing still tends to be a bit noisy then it goes away if you press the clutch in just a hair like half an inch. Any ideas to fine tune this thing??? Thanks....

The adjustment is not difficult. I will get my FSM out once I get home and describe things straight from the book. You will need to remove the bell inspection cover. More later.

Thanks for the helpful input lugnutz. I will try that out. I originally was way off to where the pedal was engaging towards the bottom. I think I might've gone a bit too far the opposite direction. I really hope I don't have to remove the engine again!

pedal free play should be 3/4 - 1"(is proper clearance).
there is only so many things that cause the vibration there. if the clutch is adjusted properly and there is the proper tension on the arm from the spring there should be no problem. at 47,000 mi there shouldn't be that much wear in the linkage, unless the odometer has been over a couple of times and is sitting at 47,000. have you greased the z/bar.
the other possibility is broken ball stud retainer spring in the t/o arm. this could cause the arm and bearing to move forward with the proper free play as a broken or missing spring couldn't retain it in place
ron
Just thinking about this. the arm rally vibrate. a moving part has to set up a vibration such as a bad bearing or as bad ujoint in a driveshaft. a faulty t/o bearing could do that, but only when engaged with the pressure plate, otherwise it would rattle from being loose as from a broken retainer epring.
so I guess the thing to do is to take off the inspection cover and see if the arm is secure and make sure that the t/o bearing is free of the pressure plate and that will eliminate those areas. if you can get your fingers up there to turn the t/o, just feel if it turns smoothly
ron