The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Task Force w/ IFS; parking brake?

Finally decided to melt IFS on my '57 1/2ton. The stock parking brake bracket will have to be removed from the frame, and I have not found any solution for a replacement. I now have the stock cable setup, and would love to keep my original, knee bashing actuator arm in the cab.

What have you done, or seen done to solve this? Any ideas, much appreciated. Thank you in advance.

We have a 57 in the shop right now so I measured the bell crank on the frame. It is 11 inches long with the pivot pin 4 3/4 inches from the top. This means that the bottom moves about 1 1/4 times as much as the top. If you bypass the bell crank with a cable run through a pulley or a tube you will have to keep the slack adjusted out of the cable as you will be losing 25% of cable travel without the bell crank. No a real deal killer. If nothing else you can use a pinion mounted parking brake. TSM in Colorado makes them and probably several others.

I can't see your frame from here but: You can move the original bell crank (you call bracket) rearward and shorten the rod by that much. Or shorten cable and fab/modify bell crank. Maybe all cable, all the way to handle. (coilover's idea) Maybe more ideas from members if you post a few pics showing old bell crank area and all of frame. If you need to shorten cable and want to keep the ends, just loop cable and clamp with one wire rope clamp. Keep in mine the all cable method may require additional return spring strength.

Thanks for straightin' me out on the terminology, and the advice is priceless. Will cruise TSM

It's a stock frame/parking brake at this time.
USAbison's bell crank/rod

Sounds like it has been done w/ relocation and a little modification. So I will tackle it when the time comes.

I'm a noob, just trying to get the process clear, and my ducks inna row. Still have to decide TCI, Heidts, etc. Then there is column, brake booster, etc.

again, thank you all

Can't design Ebrake until IFS is purchased and roughed-in or done. Best to use near same as original, if possible, when you get there.
Your website doesn't look like you are a noob to me?
Do you all mean TCI? not TCM. TCI IFS instructions say cut off, flatten and re weld the steering box relief flange. The Bell crank and it's bracket are mounted just in front of that relief. Moving Ebrake back would seem a piece of cake or maybe even on a bracket welded to IFS cross member to keep same length rod/cable. Rod can be any shape, bent and strengthened to suit.

yeah, maybe got a little ahead of myself, just trying not to miss anything at this stage. I did not consider bending the rod too, good to know.

noob to building the trucks, definitely IFS. Heck; whatsa bell crank? Spent years making motorcycles, so I can turn a wrench.

TCM was suggested by @coilover for brake components.

Roger.

I think maybe bartamos has dialed it in especially if your new IFS comes with a R&P steering. With the gear box out of the way there should be room to move the bell crank back and then drill a new lower hole for a shortened rod to run through.Good luck.

Looked at the 57 frame again and there is a problem but it's not a deal killer. The top flange of the frame is rolled up just behind the bell crank bracket so it would need to be flattened to move bracket rearward. Maybe could use a spacer to raise it above the rolled up lip.

Hey Evan, what am I, chopped liver?

Guilty as accused. Was skimming rather than READING. Saw your first sentence on not really being able to do much till new front was roughed in and thought "he's got it right" and then drifted into cruise control.

Roger. I do that too.

Here's how I did it:
http://stovebolt.bisonweb.com/picture.php?/92/category/6
As @bartmos said, the steering box flange in the frame @coilover mentions above is cut out and replaced to flatten the frame for boxing.

The bottom lever of the bell crank has to be straightened; as stock it sat inside the now boxed frame. Nothing that cannot be solved w/ fire and sheer ignorance.

I positioned the bell crank w/ the steering and top A-arm in place to assure fit. Marked, drilled, and welded captive mounting nuts in the frame.

The rod was cut 4", re-threaded and given a slight downward bend.

Maybe not the best way, but, that's my way.
[img]http://stovebolt.bisonweb.com/picture.php?/92/category/6 [/img]
Regards,