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#111810 11/02/2003 4:32 AM
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is there any primer out there a guy can paint over with out sanding and still have it stick

#111811 11/02/2003 6:08 AM
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POR-15 works really well on the frame, floor pans, inner fender etc.

Zero-Rust has a rattle can spray primer that inhibits rust and you can over coat it with most finishing paints. Great for body panels when you take them down to bare metal.

Later,

John


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#111812 11/02/2003 6:11 AM
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Here is the link for Zero Rust: http://www.zero-rust.com . You can do a Yahoo search for POR-15.


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#111813 11/02/2003 7:32 AM
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i am painting a 1950 chevy truck. first i want to spray a epoxy primer then a high build primer its a 2k urethane brand is omni ppg line but i want to know if i can just spray the fire wall with the epoxy primer and just paint over it so i dont have to sand it im not useing a rust paint i am useing a base clear acrylic urethane by omni

#111814 11/02/2003 8:35 AM
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You should scuff cured epoxy primer up and then it will stick.


54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
#111815 11/02/2003 9:24 AM
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ya thats the prob i dont want to sand it

#111816 11/02/2003 5:56 PM
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READ THE TECH SHEETS!

YES "most" epoxies tech sheets will tell you there is a "window" where you can paint over it. That window is usually about 24 hours.

That is one of the benifits of using a COMPLETE paint system. You simply follow the recommendations from the manufacture you are using. PPG has all the products you could ever need to paint your truck, any part of it. You don't need to mix brands on this very important step in the restoration of your truck.

That is one of the reasons you use epoxy, so you DON'T HAVE TO SAND IT!

But, you MUST follow the tech sheets.


1948 Chevy Pickup
Chopped and sectioned
owned since 1974 when I was 15.
#111817 11/02/2003 6:03 PM
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Quote
Originally posted by chevyrebelyell:
Zero-Rust has a rattle can spray primer that inhibits rust and you can over coat it with MOST finishing paints. Great for body panels when you take them down to bare metal.

Later,

John
John, how do you find out what "MOST" means? Is it when you paint over it, you have a problem? Or is it a year later when your paint fails after your truck is all done?

ZeroRust is a great product, but using it under your paint is asking for trouble. Use it as a complete "system" if you want on chassis parts and that sort of thing. But for goodness sakes don't use it on parts that are then going to be painted by other brands.

If you start with bare metal, use etch primer, then epoxy or urethane primer, then the paint and or clear from all ONE manufacture.


1948 Chevy Pickup
Chopped and sectioned
owned since 1974 when I was 15.
#111818 11/02/2003 7:12 PM
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ya my epoxy has a 3 day window or has to be sanded and redone so what you are saying that i can spray the epoxy and paint over it and i will not have problems this is not my first paint job its just the first time i have used the epoxy

#111819 11/02/2003 9:00 PM
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If that is what it says in the tech sheets that is right. When it says something to the effect of "maximum allowable dry before topcoating" or "Dry to top coat", Or "dry to sand or topcoat" That is the terminoloy they may use. Then there is usually a note such as "Must be sanded and recoated after XX hours" or "Must be recoated after XX hours before top coat or other undercoats can be applied"

I tell you this because sometimes the language is not always clear.

Sometimes they are very clear "If XXXX is not top coated within XX hours, it must be sanded" that sort of thing.

There are many products like etch primers, epoxies, urethane primer/sealers and even basecoat colors that have a window of even a week. While other VERY similar products may have a very strict recoat window of as short as 4 hours!!

So it is very important to follow these recommendations for the product YOU are using not what someone says because they used something similar.

Buy the way, I use to sell a lot of product to fleets. Tractor trailer, fleets of all kinds. Including national accounts like COKE and UPS. The systems that were used on these fleets were all none sanding systems. Etch primer over bare metal, epoxy or urethane primer/sealer and then urethane top coat, not sanding what so ever.

In fact, I gained a lot of accounts because I simply showed them a way to paint in less time with BETTER results. I had one account that they had been sandblasting equipment like "blades" (commonly called "graders") then priming them with lacquer primer ( eek ) then painting IMRON polyurethane (very expensive) top coat. They were SANDING THESE HUGE PEICES OF EQUIPMENT after the lacquer primer !! eek eek

They were thrilled with the SYSTEMS I had to offer them. The funny thing is thier DuPont rep could have taught them the same thing using DuPont systems if he had taken the time. But I got the account because I went in there and showed them. Etch primer, epoxy primer, then a urehtane top coat. No sanding, the products total cost was almost the same because IMRON was so high. And best of all the labor was WAY, WAY less to do it. They ended up with a FAR superior product which meant they didn't have to paint the trucks as often (this particular place is on a coastal town and the shop was about 200 yards from the ocean!) and that saved money.

I also had companies who manufactured hundred thousand dollar pieces of equipment like machines to manufacture auto componants or that sort of thing. These pieces of equipment were painted the same way. But the epoxy was skipped. It was simply etch primed and then top coated, no sanding. You can't do this will all etch primers, but, again, if you read the tech sheets you find out what you can do.

I only go thru these stories to show you that this is something that is done all over the country and is recommended by the manufactures of the paint to do so.


1948 Chevy Pickup
Chopped and sectioned
owned since 1974 when I was 15.
#111820 11/04/2003 8:38 PM
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What MS said!!!


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