The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 oil pan

good morning to all, the other day i decided to change the gasket on my 46, it was leaking a little for a while now, i drained the oil, removed the pan, cleaned the surface of the pan and the block, i then applied sealant to the pan and applied the gasket on. i waited a few hours then placed sealant on top of the oil pan gasket and tightened it to the block. my leak became worse. my mistakes--> i overtighten I should have torqued didnt know

Questions:
1. is there a sequence on the way the bolts go on?
2. torque--> is this correct? oil pan corner bolts 12-15 oil pan bolts 6-7
3. whats the best method of putting it on?

thanks in advanced.

The side gaskets need to be attached to the block first, then the end gaskets which butt over the ends of the side gaskets.
I also put a dab of forma-gasket at this spot.

Check the SEARCH feature on this site. There are GREAT posts concerning the changing of the oil pan gasket on the 216 cu.in, engine. I attached the side gaskets to the pan with "yellow death" 3 weather strip adhesive and let it dry overnight. Attached the end gaskets to the slot in the main bearing caps with "yellow death" again. Make sure all surfaces are very clean. I trimmed the little tabs on the ends of the side gaskets and put a bead of ultra gray Permatex RTV in the corners where the end gaskets meet the side gaskets. A little trick I learned years ago with these cork gaskets was to smear a thin coat of petroleum jelly where the gaskets meet the metal surfaces on the block and end of the pan. There are many of us that attach the side gaskets to the block, but if the engine is in the truck it is very difficult to get them lined up and keep them stuck to the block. Kind of a trial and error situation here, but that is how I did mine. NO leaks so far.

Tim

thanks to both, well fixit1958 i did do a search some say do it like you mentioned attach to block while others go the route of pre 68 attach to oil pan.
so what you are saying is attach side gaskets with weather strip adhesive? does that tolerate high heat (does it matter)? also you are saying to trim the gaskets and then apply a coat of permatex RTV which itself is a gasket maker?

i might try it.

Make sure the pan rails are not distorted from previous attempts at tightening. A piece of flat steel in a vise makes a handy anvil to straighten the pan rails, using a small ballpeen hammer. Once the pan is straight, secure the side gaskets to the block and trim the end gaskets a little so they don't distort as the pan is installed. Most end gaskets are a bit too long as they come from the factory. A little high temp RTV in the corners helps.

Tightening- - - - -it's difficult to get a good torque reading, as the gasket compresses as the bolts are tightened. I like to run the bolts barely snug, then make 1/4-1/2 turn more to compress the gasket a little without damaging it. After a little running time, recheck and snug any loose bolts a little.
Jerry

You mention that you applied sealant to the pan, put on the cork gasket and let it sit for a couple of hours. If that sealant was RTV, it would not be very compliant when you bolted up the pan. RTV needs to be formed close to its final state before hardening.