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#1114795 07/20/2015 9:12 PM
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I has an idea for a new topic and was wondering if anyone else had an interest....Does anyone have stories about extreme budget builds...maybe the title can be the "under $3000 club" I cant take credit for this bcs i got the idea from another unrelated website

Last edited by heavy40chevy; 07/20/2015 9:13 PM.
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Sounds interesting - if there are such trucks/projects that resulted in safe-to-operate <$3,000 trucks (purchase costs plus drivabilty costs).

There might be more posters in a forum named: I thought it would cost $3,000, but it cost $!%*#@&!$.

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Quote
I thought it would cost $3,000, but it cost $!%*#@&!$.
A better title might be "Stories From The Black Hole"
Harold
dang


Harold
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Which fender cost only 3k? Hahahahahah!

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I've got more than $3000 in my truck just to get it back on the road after it sat for 18 years. Before it sat it was a frame off restoration with a rebuilt engine. To get it back on the road I rebuilt the brakes, converted to 12v and new tires. Plus a few other odds and ends. It adds up quick.

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I now have three AD trucks. The 47' 3600 - $2000; 48' 3100 3 window - $1500; 48' 3100 5 window - $1500; All three basketcases. I had no idea these trucks were this addicting.

I'm thinking one of the 3100's might be a candidate for your new topic Heavy40Chevy. I'm in!


Have you ever noticed that anyone driving slower than you is an idiot and anyone driving faster than you is a maniac? - George Carlin
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^^^Very true, just to get new tires your looking around $600 at least. it all adds up quick. Just to be fair I don't think anyone actually can do it without beg, borrow, & deal type transactions but that makes the stories more interesting too!

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Originally Posted by Marko2727
I now have three AD trucks. The 47' 3600 - $2000; 48' 3100 3 window - $1500; 48' 3100 5 window - $1500; All three basketcases. I had no idea these trucks were this addicting.

I'm thinking one of the 3100's might be a candidate for your new topic Heavy40Chevy. I'm in!


Excellent, Keep us posted! I think you got a pretty good shot with anyone of those trucks, you planning on restoring all 3 or are they parts donors?

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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$600 for tires
$350-$750 for original-spec brake system
$150-$1000 spring/suspension parts
$200 front and rear wheel bearings

$100+ for good 6v battery
$50 for good 6v battery cables

$100 minimum for full engine tune-up parts and oil change, and oil/air filters (and new radiator coolant)

The above costs assume a useable radiator (and water pump & hoses), useable electrical system, and good/safe steering parts, and that you do not care about body/cab seals, and exterior paint (and ignore any rust-out in cab, doors, fender, etc).

Use whatever bed it comes with.

Assume you have a good starter, generator, and voltage regulator (and, useable wiring).

Plus: the cost of the truck/shell that gets you started on this project.

Last edited by tclederman; 07/21/2015 12:33 PM. Reason: changed a few parts/prices
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I'm out

Last edited by Ssrjim; 07/21/2015 5:25 AM.
Ssrjim #1114903 07/21/2015 6:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Ssrjim
I'm out
^^^^ hahaha I'm sure most of us don't even want to think about it

Last edited by heavy40chevy; 07/21/2015 6:21 AM.
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I ran some numbers on my '37 GMC(not done before) and slightly have under $3,000. By trading a 6bt I got from a dead bus for $500. For a 453T, getting a dead P3500 school bus, using both axles w/ disc brakes, Saginaw pump, steering, Hydroboost, got $500. Scrap for the remainder. Most parts from scrap dealers. Not finished yet, but drives, everything works.

Last edited by EdPruss; 07/21/2015 2:40 PM.

'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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Would this include big bolts?
Because after I got the flag pole Licened, insured and filled with fuel, it was well under $3,000.
Thats because when I bought it, It was an inservice truck at a small town volenteer fire department. Always garaged, waxed, full of water and in good shape.
Here are some pictures from about a month ago at a small town picnic they asked me to bring it to.
http://s893.photobucket.com/user/2-Ton/library/Tebbetts%20%20picnic%202015

If you incude the fuel mileage the last three years, it will put me over.

Don


1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck
"The Flag Pole"
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Tim, sounds about right. I did save on tires and found some good used ones. I have not driven it very much to comment on the spring/suspension or wheel bearings. Looking back, I paid way to much for a truck that needed a lot of help, but I do not regret buying it. Steve, Vashon, Wa.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Just move forward, Steve, at whatever pace suits your available time and your available cash.

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I bought my 48 3100 for $400. Some of my parts are from a 53 3100 that I got for $600. The rest I picked up at swap meets. Mainly in Fort Worth and Decatur Texas. My drivers door had a bullet hole in it. That's from Martin in Oklahoma. Thank you. There's a lot of love and sweat in my finished product. My daily driver.


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Socket Breaker
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old trucks are fun, but generally not cheap.

It is all the little things you buy over the years and maintenance things that are either over your head or you don't want to mess with that add up quickly.

-W


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I wanted an antique car since about 1966.

Started looking for one 1968.

Bought one 1970.

From way back then I have observed that many people for whatever reason always over restore there car. Putting more money into it then they can ever sell it for.

Even when people are wise enough to not over restore their auto the problem is the body and interior can be in good shape but usually the auto is warn out to the point so many things are finally shot that the auto was not worth fixing and or they could not fine the parts.

They could not part with their old car so they just parked it. Saying one day they may fix her up.

So decades later a long comes antique auto collector. Car appears that it will not take much to put her back on the road. For the last owner said it ran when it was parked. Just the master cylinder went bad. No problem a new MC can be bought for $100.

The purchase is made the old auto is brought to a new home. First Saturday morning the master cylinder is replaced.

Then a bad rear wheel cylinder is found. So luckily a rebuild kit is locally before lunch. After lunch the brake honer is brought out and the wheel cylinder is rebuilt. Only to leak because too much material had to be removed to clean up the bore.

New owner finds the world of internet auto parts and will have a new wheel cylinder before next Saturday. He has not yet found out about the Stovebolt forum so he does not yet know that their are businesses that can re-sleeve master and wheel cylinders.

Whether he can not get a good pedal or to be safe he decides to replace all the wheel cylinders.

Front drums off and linings are almost down to the rivets and the LF wheel bearings are bad. The fun never ends.

And also as the fun the spending of the money doesn't either.

I think to control spending is why people have become more interested in maintain the PETINA of and old car, truck, motorcycle instead of doing 100 point restorations.

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Glad your enjoying the door Dennis. For the rest of you please note that the door was off of Dennis' truck when the hole occurred. Although we sometimes shoot at Texans here in Oklahoma the door was someones target many years ago.

Back on topic, I have way more in the '48 Burb than I'll ever see when it sells.


Martin
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alot of great points in this thread but I don't think its fair to include general maintenance. Every vehicle needs maintenance and repairs. I've learned alot from my restoration and some parts are better to invest in new and other are better to shop around for used.

Electrical parts are a great example, I will never buy NOS electrical stuff ever again. Also, no more NOS gaskets and finally, I would have all my wheel cylinders re-sleeved with stainless steel from the beginning, other wise I really don't see any excessive maintenance cost unless something catastrophic happens.

Remember Grease is Cheap, Parts aren't!

32vld #1115149 07/22/2015 9:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 32vld
I think to control spending is why people have become more interested in maintain the PETINA of and old car, truck, motorcycle instead of doing 100 point restorations.

I don't necessarily think so...the rustic "distressed" look is very popular, look at all the EXTRA money people spend to buy NEW clothes, NEW furniture, vintage cars and other junk that "looks" old. It more about personal taste and style. In many situations people are spending more money on cars with a interesting petina over a perfectly restored car or even creating their own faux petina on their vehicles

Last edited by heavy40chevy; 07/22/2015 10:04 PM.
32vld #1115154 07/22/2015 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 32vld
From way back then I have observed that many people for whatever reason always over restore there car. Putting more money into it then they can ever sell it for.


Maybe you're confusing monetary value with the value of satisfaction.

If you want to drive a vehicle for the least amount of money, buy a two year old off-lease econobox. Repeat every two years, or whenever the factory warranty is up.

Not saying it's impossible to sell a car for more than you have in it, but it's an extreme rarity, and should not be expected. Unless, of course, you're a Dickerer - then, your life depends on it...


Thanks,
David
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I said:

I think to control spending is why people have become more interested in maintain the PETINA of and old car, truck, motorcycle instead of doing 100 point restorations.

You said:

I don't necessarily think so...

Which disagrees with what I said.


Then you agree with me:

the rustic "distressed" look is very popular

So which is it?

I offered a possible reason why saving the patina has become popular.

Why do you think people have drifted away from 100 point restorations?

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Originally Posted by Old GM Guy
Maybe you're confusing monetary value with the value of satisfaction.

Not saying it's impossible to sell a car for more than you have in it, but it's an extreme rarity, and should not be expected.

No confusion. Just years of reading articles on the antique car hobby warning people about the wisdom of over spending and to proceed with caution.

Many years of seeing projects started and autos left apart to never be put back together again.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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VERY few people think about doing 100 point restoration.
Even fewer ever did/do one.

It seems most people get started on a restoration (meaning a "restofication" (not really a back-to-original specifications "restoration") but they then move towards adding "upgrades" (brakes, rear-end, gauges, steering, etc).

Different types of "rat rod" paint jobs seem to have been popular for many years.

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..... I do it because I like to. I enjoy working with my hands and seeing how things work. AT times there is no money and some times there are. However, I have no truck payment to make this month so it can sit.
I've NEVER built one to sell although they all "have a price".

....my favorite thing: someone at shows will surely point out something that is just not perfect and strike up a conversation. After a little criticism I usually turn to them and ask "how many you built". Man I love it...and to the ones who HAVE built nice rides I simply say mine is the best I could do. Wish I had one like yours.... NOT smile

I like it, I like it, I like it....or I wouldn't do it!


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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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"After a little criticism I usually turn to them and ask "how many you built"."

Nice one, Alvin

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I have a spreadsheet to track costs. I use it to keep the "as long as I'm already paying shipping" impulse in check. Even excluding maintenance, we blew past the $3k mark like a rocket sled on rails.

Many hobbies are just as or more expensive. It's a great feeling to go out and use my hands and see some immediate progress. And I've enjoyed showing the vintage technology to my boys.

The ROI, intrinsically, has been great.


1947 3100 Advanced Design

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I traded new tires for my current project. So I guess it cost me a little over 400. I bot a battery for it today. I had a set of spark plugs and a new distributor cap sitting around and put those on it. I had to buy tires and rims for it. I got those at a junk yard for about $100. I had bought the bed for another truck but I'm going to use them on this one. have the to do the welding on the body, but I've got the sheet metal to weld in. So I guess for now I'm doing ok.


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I'm really enjoying this topic. In the end it should'nt be about the money. It should be about the enjoyment you get and the pride you feel when you share your truck with others. That being said I think alot of us bolters just want to know what others are spending. Maybe it helps justify it all. Now back to that frozen carb linkage.........


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I got my truck running, steering, and stopping safely for less than $3000. Then I spent another $12,000+ making it look pretty and adding more power. Not sure the pretty part of it was worthwhile since it is too nice to use as a truck. Live and learn.

There are great deals every day on Craigslist for original 235's, etc... If you have the time and skills, it shouldn't cost a ton of money to get on the road. If your truck has "real" patina, enjoy using it for a while before dropping a bunch of money on bodywork and paint.

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Originally Posted by Achipmunk
....my favorite thing: someone at shows will surely point out something that is just not perfect and strike up a conversation. After a little criticism I usually turn to them and ask "how many you built".

These are the "correct police" that many of us rail about. The old tractor hobby is full of these type of people as well.
Everyone should fix up his own vehicle/tractor/whatever to whatever level he or she is happy with. If someone else wants to find fault with it, that's their right---but they need to keep their comments to themselves!


Rich
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1959 Chev. Viking 40

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Alvin, Rich,

I'm thinkin this is why I'll avoid entering shows. If someone wants to critique something that's not theirs and haven't put a dime into, I certainly don't need their $.02 now. First thing that popped into my head to say was "Gosh! I'm surprised I made it all the way here and didn't burst into a fireball!!"

32vld #1115316 07/23/2015 6:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 32vld
I said:

I think to control spending is why people have become more interested in maintain the PETINA of and old car, truck, motorcycle instead of doing 100 point restorations.

You said:

I don't necessarily think so...

Which disagrees with what I said.


Then you agree with me:

the rustic "distressed" look is very popular

So which is it?

I offered a possible reason why saving the patina has become popular.

Why do you think people have drifted away from 100 point restorations?


It was a concurring and dissenting opinion. I agree that 'patina' appearances are gaining popularity but for reasons other than what you stated. I mentioned it was for personal taste...the examples I listed were of all situations where people spent 'MORE' on the distressed look, I really don't think it's spending related at all for most people, just style.

...CAN you save money by not touching the petina, absolutely! Although, I don't think the cutting cost is a primary factor in people's decision to save the petina (in most cases) its just an incidental benefit.

It only my observation from my perspective, I'm sure there are alot of different views too thumbs_up

Last edited by heavy40chevy; 07/23/2015 8:27 PM.
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I am disgusted but here goes.
1950 3600 initial cost $400.00
6 volt battery $65.00
Water pump $45.00
Fuel filter $4.00
Oil $14.00
Antifreeze $30.00
Gas $35.00
Wheel cylinder kits $76.00
Master cylinder kit $25.00
Brake shoes $130.00
Brake line $75.00
Brake fluid $14.00
1955 chevy 3600 front backing plates/drums and all brake guts, 3/4 ton rear end complete $ free for hauling off
Total $913.00
Good running, driving ol'e truck, then I got bit! I should have left it alone....


Tim
1950 3600 Some Pictures
1951 3100
1952 3100 Some Pictures
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I will add this, the person buying a truck and driving it to one show every year and maybe to one of his club monthly meetings is not going to put much wear and tear or need much in expenditures to keep it running.

The person that uses his truck for a daily driver regardless of his initial costs to put the truck on the road will have costs due to it's daily use.

I think that in this case those costs need to be kept separate from restoration costs.

So if it cost a person $5,000 to buy and restore his truck, that is what he has invested into it.

Now if he uses that truck daily for the next ten years and it costs him $5,000 to keep it running. He did not invest $10,000 in the truck.

Invested $5,000 in the truck.

He spent $5,000 on the truck to use it.

Last edited by 32vld; 07/23/2015 10:28 PM.
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Nice, Tim (sleepindawg)

32vld #1115501 07/24/2015 4:42 PM
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Makes perfect sense.

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I love to talk about paint vs. patina. My truck sat in the brutal hot desert sun in southern Arizona for 25 years or so. Luckily, somebody had slapped a cheap coat of paint over the original before parking it. When I dragged it home and served eviction notice on the pack rats and scorpions I took a pile of 600 grit wet/dry paper and a Homer bucket of water and over the course of the next couple of months, "unpainted" it. It could use more work, but I sure like the results so far..

Geo

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I doubt I'm gonna be in the club since I started out by purchasing it at $2500. I'm near certain I've got more than $500 in parts so far.

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