The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Where do I buy ZERO RUST?

I am not sure where to buy zero rust?

Contact Carl Huether in Pelham NH for product. 800-762-4077
Cheers,

Bruce Palmer
[email protected]

Bruce,
I received everything and visited the San Jose outlet. Thanks for your help.

cmayna,

I'm in the San Jose area also. Can you post info on the local outlet?

Thanks,
LT

LT,
Looks like Craig had to toddle off to work or play so I'll answer for him. Try Finishmaster or Center Paint. They both buy from the warehouse in Santa Clara. Another good one if you get into SF is Coast Marine & industrial right down on the waterfront.
Any problem finding product just email me at [email protected]. This thread could go on for ever......
Cheers

Bruce,
Thanks for the info. You're right that it could be a long thread if all Stovebolters start asking the same question.

Perhaps a dealer's list on your site could answer many of them.

Thanks again
LT

LT,
I thought about the dealer list but the way things are growing across the US & Canada, it would be a full time job just to keep it current.

It seems like in most cases when I do get emails about local sources, there often is a "how to" question included so I can handle those at the same time.

Plus I think most everybody likes to get a response from a person....

Always looking for restoration oriented dealers though if any of you are into shows and swap meets, etc.

Thanks for the info.

What is "Zero Rust"? Better than POR 15 ? thanks, jim

Jim,
If you (or anyone) would like to call me at 800-725-4960 I'd be happy to pass on what users of both Zero Rust and POR have told me over the last 15 years. Probably too blatant for me to do it here.

Perhaps board users will chime in with their experiences. We do have dealers in Idaho so maybe buying a rattle can to play with would be the easiest way to fill in the blanks.

I can say this: A state (to be un-named but nearby) is using ZR for their bridge maintenance painting on the coast bridges and a major west coast port (also un-named) is using ZR in lieu of the epoxies they had used for years around their port facilities.

Now, before anybody gets their nose out of joint about "crass commercialism", I was just answering a question....

Zero Rust dries rockhard and lasts for a very long time on my truck. In fact, where I put it on a couple of years ago still looks new. I put it on my bumperbrackets, for instance, and it is impossible to scratch with your fingernail or even most tools.

It is easy to spray, acts and thins like paint (of all things).

I have never tried POR15 but find no reason to change.

J. C. Whitney has it in their new catalogs if you ever use them? They are in Chicago, and on-line now too. There are very few if none sales contacts in midwest or east coast area. Think they need better campaign to get product out there and in sites of people. Spend some money, for cryin' out loud, advertise!

Just don't bother trying to ask them anything about the product.

Bruce,
So far I'm very happy with ZeroRust. The final finish is a little flat for my taste so I chase each item with a rustoleum semi gloss black.

Oh yeah!!!!

Thanks guys, Bruce, I'll probably call you in the spring. If it's better than POR it's awful good.My 40' half tonne is about done. Am lookin at a 72' next. And need to paint some boat,motorcycle 'n snowmobile trailers. Can you mix sand etc with it for non-slip surface? Am interested. Thanks. jim

Thanks guys, Bruce, I'll probably call you in the spring. If it's better than POR it's awful good.My 40' half tonne is about done. Am lookin at a 72' next. And need to paint some boat,motorcycle 'n snowmobile trailers. Can you mix sand etc with it for non-slip surface? Am interested. Thanks. jim

CMayna, I thought the semi-flat was just about right for the original look. You think the black used was shinier?

Oh I get it looking at your pictures now. You were trying to match your powder coated parts.

Tony M,
I agree that the original was probably more flat just like the zerorust results, but since I did powdercoating I wanted to match it. Since, I will not be powercoating too many other parts of the truck (to watch my expenses) I will probably revert back to the flat black for items such as frame, rearend and so on.

Jim,
As far as performance is concerned, the moisture cure urethanes of which POR is one, work well for their designed purpose. ZR does also.
From there on, it's things like price, ease of use, safety, shelf life, UV stability, recoatability, aerosol availability that put smiles on the kissers of the ZR users. It really comes down to personal preference. There are loyal users on both sides and it will always be thus.
I see no reason why you could not load up say the last coat of ZR with some sand for the ol' non-skid.

Craig,
The gloss can be brought up in 2 ways, going to a slower thinner (if using bulk) and or a heavier film film. Be careful on the film build as it can really slow down cure if applied too thick. But then, the Oleum folks need their wheels of commerce turned too........

thanks Bruce, The spray can would be great. Will start lookin for it . Hope it smells better than POR.

thanks Bruce, The spray can would be great. Will start lookin for it . Hope it smells better than POR.