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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 128 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 128 | Hi all. What would most likely cause the speedo needle to wiggle. It will go up to about 30mph then back to 25 mph. Back and forth all the time. 30 is the about the max the speedo will go. Put a new speedo in and still have the same issue. Its a '41 1 1/2 ton 4 speed
Thanks
Andy
Sometimes you're the window Sometimes you're the bug
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 236 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2015 Posts: 236 | Have you replaced or at least lubricated the speedo cable. It sounds like to it is starting to bind or separate.
Baking in the nice desert sun, breathing life back into a 48 3800 5 window. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 106 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 106 | How do you lube the whole cable? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 339 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 339 | You have to pull out the inner cable, properly from the top or speedo head. Then clean and use a light grease, but not to thick. Wipe off all excess and reinstall cable, hook up and hope that helps. root | | | | | Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 128 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 128 | I'm assuming graphite would work for this
Sometimes you're the window Sometimes you're the bug
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 914 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 914 | AC Delco General Purpose Lubricant
AC TYPE ST-800
AC NO.25033356
What I used in dealerships to lube speedometer cables. Jeffrey
Last edited by 32vld; 07/13/2015 7:41 PM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 236 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2015 Posts: 236 | I like to pull the inner cable out and check for breaks then dust inner cable with graphite or teflon lube. And funnel the same lube down the outer housing.
Baking in the nice desert sun, breathing life back into a 48 3800 5 window. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,479 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,479 | I agree with Yuma. Binding...maybe like part of the cable has separated and is catching the sleeve as it rotates. Jon
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: May 2013 Posts: 173 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2013 Posts: 173 | Mine did/ does the exact same thing, except but it has an obnoxiously loud screeching noise. The cable was NOS & I lubed it when I put it on but it didn't really work, I have no idea whats wrong with it either | | | | | Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 914 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 914 | Mine did/ does the exact same thing, except but it has an obnoxiously loud screeching noise. The cable was NOS & I lubed it when I put it on but it didn't really work, I have no idea whats wrong with it either What did you lube it with? Did you also replace the cable housing or just the cable? | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 236 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2015 Posts: 236 | If cable is new and lubricated then tip seating is next possible noise issue. I have seen new cable not go in far enough to get the "notch in to the slot". Remove the speedometer end and drive seeing is squeal exists and watch the tip spin to see if it is smooth. This is where a test speedometer or hand mechanical tach is handy for looking at the cable operation.
Another test method is to disconnect the driven end from the transmission and use a drive adapter or old gear section chucked up in a variable speed drill. You can spin it up till noise starts and stethoscope it out.
Between a drill and hand tach you can test each of the three parts to figure out where the issue is.
Baking in the nice desert sun, breathing life back into a 48 3800 5 window. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 128 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 128 | I pulled out the cable and there is no damage to it. The cable comes into the cab rather high up on the firewall, is this where it is supposed to come in? I'm thinking it may be binding, its a rather sharp bend
Sometimes you're the window Sometimes you're the bug
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,479 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,479 | The bend should not be a sharp one. It should be a gentle bend entering a grommet on the firewall about 9 inches or so from the hood line. You could be on the right track with this idea. It is binding and releasing somewhere. This is what will cause the needle bouncing. Jon
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,748 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,748 | The cable housing has a habit of developing sticky spots due to wear of the coiled steel used to make the housing. Replacement of the entire cable/housing assembly is the only option if lubing the inner cable doesn't solve the noise or jittery needle. Jerry
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