The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop pulling a 6 cyl engine; how hard?; any good links?

hi.

I have a 1955 3100 with a 6 cyl engine and manual 3 speed transmission.

I was thinking of pulling the engine to work on it easier, paint it, etc. BUT, I have never done that before.

questions:

#1 how hard is it to do (remove the engine) for someone who has not done it before, but has decent general mechanical skills?

#2 should the trans be left in place in the truck and just the engine pulled, or is it best to take them both out as one piece?

#3 any good links or threads on the subject? like a step by step process with pics? I searched but could not find anything 'complete'.

#4 other than general tools, what else is needed and any recommendations on where to get it (like an engine lift?).

#5 can one person do it alone?

#6 how hard is it to put back in


and lastly, is my asking these questions 'an answer in itself', in that if I have to ask it is too much for me?

I lifted the entire front clip using the rad support to lift, was very easy then the engine w/o the sheet metal, piece of cake. Also a plus, I discovered the rad support is made up of several sections spot welded from the factory, was coming apart. So we welded it all back better than factory. And may not have noticed this problem had I not pulled the whole unit off the truck. And I did this w/o help using my engine lift.

Engine lift can be rented or Harbor freight lift is cheap, that's what I used. I'd pull the 3 speed because it's easy and will make engine lift easier.

If its running good and there is no problems I think I'd leave the engine in the truck. Some purple power and a good cleaning is in order....then some masking tape/newspapers and your ready. Valve covers, side covers and some other stuff can be removed from truck to clean and do a good detailed job on them.

There is plenty of room under the hood for your vehicle to work on it but if you want to pull the engine drain the coolant, disconnect battery and all the other pipes and hoses that are attached to the engine but go somewhere else on the truck body. Disconnect the driveshaft, take the motor mounts loose. A good engine hoist is in order. Take your time and LOOK at what you doing....while your doing it and most of all be SAFE. This is not a hard job and you can do it.
I'm not sure but most repair manuals show a complete engine assembly and may even have a paragraph on what to unhook to get the engine out. Most of us learn by trial and error anyway.

Browse around, there is probably some bolters in your area that can give you some tips, help, or direction.....and we are always here! Good luck

I agree with Alvin to leave the engine in place.
Save the major detail repaint for when the engine really needs to come out.
Carl

I agree in leaving it in the truck. I used to pull engines all the time and it was an afternoon job to remove and replace an engine. But I had a well equipped shop and I pulled so many that I knew just exactly how to do it and I had someone with me who was experienced when I pulled the first one at age 14. He showed me all the tricks and it got easier every time. My first one was almost 60 years ago, and it ain't so easy any more. But I still know what needs to be done to pull a GMC or a Y-Block.

thanks for all the replies!

after digesting them all, my plan is now:

"...if it ain't broke...don't fix it...".

I will leave the engine in the truck and work on it there.



Thanks again!

If it's real nasty, use a semi-flexible putty knife to get the biggest chunks of grease off, use a cordless drill with wirecup brush, hand wire brush (the toothbrush size) and once you have gotten about all you get off that way, soak it in oven cleaner or lacquer thinner applied by paint brush a couple times and then pressure wash if you have one. That should get enough off so that you can then start to use the foaming degreasers.

OP: I was thinking of pulling the engine to work on it easier, paint it, etc. BUT, I have never done that before.

If you compile the answers so far you have the Lions share of 'How' to go about making the job easiest.
Is this a shade tree job or do you have a work space?
What sort of time parameters do you have in mind?

You don't need many tools (You Do have tools don't you?)to get to the bare engine ready for paint but a box of zip lock bags and some perm. markers will save your sanity down the roads IF your disciplined enough to use them....

I'd avoid the lacquer thinner as it leaves a residue and just evaporates to fast to help. Kerosene is cheaper anyway.

I found after the flexible putty knife, a straight line from the hot water tank to my pressure washer was the easiest and fastest way to go.
Then the foamy stuff if needed, otherwise I like a strong solution of Simple Green or Purple whatever, and (the important one) Dawn original in a weed sprayer. (again mixed with HOT water)
Spray, Rinse, Repeat.

I don't think hot water through a pressure washer is a good thing. Cold water helps cools the pump as it builds pressure.