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Fixing the old truck

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'Bolter
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Well, I'm a city guy who's HOA won't allow working on my truck in the driveway. Over a year ago my 3-speed craped out on me and I haven't driven it since but around the block in 1st gear once a month. Finally got a couple of my buddies to volunteer to give up a Saturday and their big shop to help me swap out the tranny for a rebuilt one another friend sold me. Yep, a case of cold beer and some chow is in order!! Anyway, I figure I should change out the clutch while I'm in there so that's on the agenda too. My question is in preparation for the big day, what parts should I buy so I'm ready? Are there parts kits for a job like this or do I buy individual parts? I've never done a repair like this before so I admit my ignorance. Your help would be appreciated. BTW, the truck is a 1950 Chevy half ton with three-on-the-tree, and a 216 engine. All original.

Many thanks for your help with the parts list and even advice or tips if you've got any. And yes, I've got a shop manual.


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
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Bolter
Bolter
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Clutch plate, Pressure plate and Throw out bearing. Along with the aforementioned case of beer and grub and you should be good to go. Read the shop manual 3-4 times before you start.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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'Bolter
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Justhorsearound nailed it on the head! Replace/rebuild the Clutch plate, Pressure Plate, and throw out bearing. Read the process in the manual half a dozen to a dozen times, and have plenty of cold beer handy!
BTW I suggest waiting to open your beer after the transmission is successfully removed. But opinions are like.....


Curt Warren
Salt Lake City
1948 1.5ton Loadmaster
http://photobucket.com/48loadmaster
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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"Clutch plate, Pressure plate and Throw out bearing. "

Look for a kit/assembly that includes a pilot bushing and an alignment tool. You would need a pilot bushing remover (sometimes loaned-out by the parts store).

Heed carefully Curt's suggestion regarding the beer.

Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,400
ODSS Lawman
ODSS Lawman
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Some "like to have's" would be a u-joint rebuild kit, bottle opener, box of rags, and gear oil....


SWEET
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Gas Pumper
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If I had to deal with an HOA, I think I would include a case of beer.


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
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Renaissance Man
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Make sure to get one beer into the help's system to calm their nerves. Nothing more dangerous than nervous help.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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I believe I got more advice about the beer and the grub than I did about the transmission swap! LOL You guys are a hoot! That's one of the things I like best about Stovebolt.com.

Are there any new gaskets for the transmission swap I need to buy at the FLAPS before the big day? I want to make sure I have everything needed to do the job so the fellas don't have to stop & wait for me to make a trip to the parts store. Besides, I don't want to leave them alone with the ice chest!


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
You will need the u-joint cover/ball/bell gaskets and seals. Fel-Pro also sells a set that is available at local parts stores.
Check the Shop Manual on how to use that kit.

This might be the u-joint repair kit referred-to by SWEET?

If you use your old u-joint, you get get new lock clips.

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'Bolter
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Spotbiltxo I would suggest making two alignment pins to help in the removal/installation of the tranny. Here is an article discussing the alignment pins.
Even with the pins it can be a pain in the [censored], so I also suggest a Motorcyle Jack if you have access to one. I think its much easier with the shifter and ebrake (if attached to tranny) removed as well.
I suggest getting the 5 Gal 90w mineral gear oil then you have enough to do your rear end at some point.
I called Drive Shafts Unlimited @150 South W.W. White Road in san Antonio They said if you take your driveshaft to them it would be $45 to balance it, and about $70 for three U-joints installed. BTW they are not open on the weekends. I don't know if you have two or three u-joints, my 1.5t on has three. Mine is also not enclosed so I am not familiar with the gaskets associated with your enclosed driveline.
I also find it easiest to pour the mineral oil into the tranny thru the shift rod opening.
Good luck, enjoy the truck, the beer, the friends, and the experience!


Curt Warren
Salt Lake City
1948 1.5ton Loadmaster
http://photobucket.com/48loadmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,638
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'Bolter
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Tim, thanks for the heads up regarding the u-joint gasket set.

Curt, you're the best for providing all those links! And you even took time to look up and call the drive shaft people down here in San Antonio. That's going the extra mile for a fellow Bolter! Thanks so much!! I'm quite sure I only have 2 u-joints on my half ton truck. I travel their way quite a bit so I'll stop by their business one day next week and discuss what they can do for me on this project. I don't think I have driveshaft issues but you never know.

Thanks again!


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 311
8
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 311
No problem Spotbitxo, I am just trying to help like so many others have done for me on this site. I replaced my u-joints because I was going thru everything else, and I figured balancing the driveshaft wouldn't hurt. Good luck post some photos at some point!


Curt Warren
Salt Lake City
1948 1.5ton Loadmaster
http://photobucket.com/48loadmaster

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