The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Brake options for real barn find. Keep simple

Guys I have already redone a 1951 1/2 ton with lots of new bells and whistles but when it was all done I realized I didn't like it so it's sold and gone.

I've got a true barn fine and it's running but in need of brakes.
I want to keep it simple and am wondering how the original mc will do IF rebuild/replace? Or is there another option without getting a booster under or on firewall that will give me dual reservoir in original location? With a little better performance than the old single? Options please.

I only want to drive it around 10 mile radius of house in the country and maybe take the boys their ball practice. No city driving or highway.

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-54-Master-Cylinder-Adapter-Kit/productinfo/71-984/#.VXYdBs9Viko

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-59-Dual-Master-Cylinder/productinfo/71-201/#.VXYdGs9Viko

http://www.classicparts.com/1951-Master-Cylinder-1_2-Ton/productinfo/71-206/#.VXYdQM9Viko

Pick your poison

Thank you

Converting to a dual master cylinder will not improve the performance. It only changes it to a F/R split system. Properly rebuilt, the stock master cylinder will give the same performance without the need to change the plumbing around.

I always get the master cylinder sleeved with stainless steel, that way it will last for...

"I only want to drive it around 10 mile radius of house in the country and maybe take the boys their ball practice. No city driving or highway."

Good original-style master cylinder (sleeved as Dave suggests, if needed)
Good wheel cylinders - rebuilt or new, if necessary
Good brake line - I always replace them (with stainless steel lines)
Good/New flex hose/lines

It will be safe and reliable.

thank you all

I wanted original reliability in my stock style '48 Loadmaster. So I had all the shoes relined, I rebuilt all four wheel cylinders, rebuilt stock master-cylinder, turned all four drums, replaced all rubber lines, replaced the emergency brake cables, and a few steel lines. Repacked the bearings, changed the rear end fluid and everything has worked great since! Well after 2 or 3 readjustments of the brakes...
I did not resleeve with SS on my M/C or W/C, I figured if I have a problem with them again then I will have it done.
So far its been a couple years and almost a thousand miles. I haul around 4-5k loads on pretty flat terrain. There are pictues in my album if your interested.

Obviously, it's your choice, but the 30 to zero stopping distance of those trucks in new condition was... wayyy too long.
You don't have to do anything wrong - that idiot just pulls out 50 feet in front of you, and you hit him.
You do have lap & shoulder belts, don't you?

"30 to zero stopping distance of those trucks in new condition was... wayyy too long"

What do you think would be the 30 to zero stopping distance for original drum brakes?

What do you think would be the 30 to zero stopping distance for power drum brakes (original brake drum/shoes)?

What do you think would be the 30 to zero stopping distance for power disc brakes (front-only or front&back)?

You asked about stopping distance - brake fade is another matter.

50ft? At 30 mph? From memory, 30 mph is something like 45-50 feet per second. Have you ever driven an automobile before?

Unless Scottie beams you up, you're hitting them no matter what brakes you have.

Brad

Panic I will admit when I have a full 2-4k load the trucks brakes feel weak compared to normal driving with no load. BTW my Loadmaster is a 1.5ton with low gear 6.17:1 so if Im doing 45mph my 235 is running 3000+RPM and the truck does not handle like a sports car.
You can upgraded the brakes, suspension, motor, etc, it all depends what you want the end result to be. I wanted a close to stock mechanically restored dependable driver, so the rebuilt factory brake system is fine for my requirements.

After having visited Long Island very recently to visit my sister and her family, I understand Panics concern. Lots of idiots in fast moving congested traffic. Not a good place to be on my motorcycle, constantly on guard for the one zeroing in on me. I would much rather have been in my 50 GMC 450 battle wagon. I was pleasantly surprised by people's manners though. Much better than the Boston drivers, LOL. My 50 GMCs brakes will put you in the dash if not braced for a fast stop. And that's on a 10000 lb truck. Just saying. Jim

People get to hyped up about brakes. My first car was a 1935 Buick. Mechanical brakes worked great. And, when needing to stop fast in an emergency you just pulled the hand brake lever with your thumb pressing down on the release button so the hand brake could be moved forward instantly if you wanted to ease of the brakes without delay and you got so much better leverage because the hand brake lever was a lot longer lever then the brake pedal so you where able to bring the car to a fast stop.