The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk FUEL TANK CLEAN OUT

I was wondering if anyone could give me any advice on cleaning out a fuel tank. I have a 49 3100 with the tank behind the seat. It has been sending little black particles and plugging up the fuel filter. So I pulled the tank out last night after draining it.
The local rad shops wants 150.00 to clean and seal tank. They also said if it had bladders in it they would have to cut holes in it.
Does anyone know if they have bladders of one.
I can buy a new tank on line for 150.00 plus shipping.
I was to put a chain in the tank and to scrape the tank up then put apple cider vinegar in and let is set for awhile and it takes care of the rust. Is that all that has to been done? Or do I have to put a sealer on it, and how is that applied.
If anyone has done this job let me know if its the right way to do it.
Gary

Hey Gary ~I have done it....all three ways: cleaned and sealed myself, taken it to a radiator shop to have it cleaned and sealed (red sealer), and finally, purchased a new one.

After all is said and done, I highly recommend the purchase of a new one, when available. You can try your best to clean it out and seal it, but chances of rust particles getting into the fuel system are high. Time + sealer + those chances don't outweight the cost of a new tank....imo

Gary

I have cleaned a dozen or so tanks.
I start with pressure washing. If stubborn build up is seen (I use a inspection flex cam to check) then I will run the pressure washer with some simple green or purple power to blast out the caked on.
Home Depot, lowes, or your local pool supply sells muratic acid.
I plug all the holes and fill the tank half full of water then pour in the gallon of muratic acid and top off and seal the tank.
Let sit a day or so then dump and flush with running water till all runs clean.

If needed repeat the steps
When I can see nice clean bare metal then let dry (here in AZ that is sun bake for a couple hours, but in wet or cold climates a hair dryer or heat gun will do nicely). Then last use the good old POR red tank sealer.

Watch your pickup tube if it has a screen remove before cleaning, and especially before adding sealer. I also run a old piece of outer speedometer jacket or some flex wire through vent and pickup tubes after a few minutes of the sealer drying to make sure lines did not get blocked. You can also use low pressure compressed air to make sure they are clear.
I should mention it is wise to check these for full or partial blockage prior to cleaning if they are use some solvent like carb cleaner or worst case a the drill and a piece of speedo cable to ream them clean.

I have bought at least a dozen Spectra Premium tanks and haven't regretted it at all. They are made in Canada and fit like OEM. They are less than $200 and then you are done with the hassle. The old tanks are covered with powdered Tetraethyl Lead and rust and are difficult to clean.

I agree, the first tow bill due to a clogged filter pays for the tank and the peace of mind....

As much as I like saving money and trying to fix it myself. I remember 2weeks ago sitting on the side of the road for 2hrs waiting on the tow truck. I have decide to order the tank today.
Thanks guys for all your input.

gary

Hi,

I concur with the plan to put in a new tank. Even after replacing my tank, my pickup still stalled on a busy road, on a hill, in the middle of a curve. Turns out the fuel pump was full of rust dust, which clogged the fuel filter one last time. Replaced that and never had a problem again.

I picked up a new spectra tank from NPD last night in Canton, Mi. My fuel filter is before the fuel pump, so I hope knowing went pass the filter. I have blown out all the lines from the tank to the carb.
Cant wait to get it in and hope that solves the problem.

This post is timely. I have my tank out of the truck right now so I can replace my cab corners. I cleaned and lined it about three years ago but after reading what has been said, I plan to just get a new one. Who sells the Spectra Premium? Steve

In JC's catalog it says "Our tanks have been given the correct pipe threads in the fuel outlet hole. It also states that modification has not been done to 49-55 repro. tanks by some vendors. Spectra must do that obviously.

New tank equals smart move.



Weeds

There is a guy in Pasadena, MD that has been selling them on eBay for about 10 years and I have bought about a dozen from him. Right now he is selling them for $173.99 including shipping. I have Spectra tanks in my 1950 models up to my 1959 models and they are all like original and everything fit. I have bought tanks from for my Y-Blocks and I need one more. I will wait and see if he gets some.

Going for the Spectra tank was a smart move. I did that after trying to clean my original tank. It sat with old gas in it for 25 years. When I drained it it left a horrible sticky residue. It seems like a crazy idea now but I followed others suggestion of strapping the tank to a jacked up tractor wheel and running it with gravel inside the tank. After about 20 minutes of that all I ended up with was a tank full of sticky residue with gravel stuck to it.

I just took my spectra tank out of the box last night. Went to take the bolt out of the drainhole and I don't have a wrench or socket that fits it. I email spectra to find out what size it was ans if it was maybe metric. They sent me demensions put not what is needed. So I asked them again what size bolt is it. There answer was its around a 7/16. Its around a 7/16? REALLY! So I came home and pulled out a 7/16 wrench and alitte help with a hammer to put the wrench on the bolt. The bolt wont move! I put a pipe on my wrench for more leverage and it wont move.

Gary, I am planning to buy one of these tanks. Keeping us up to date on this problem would be appreciated. Steve

crenwelge, how would I get in touch with this person? Steve

If you do a search on eBay for 1951 Chevrolet Pick up fuel tank, his listing is the one located in Pasadene, MD. and is priced 173.33 with shipping. If this is not exactly what you are looking what you are looking for, click on his other items. I have never contacted him personally. I have bought all the tanks from him through eBay. He ships promptly and I have had zero problems. The 53 and earlier draw out of the bottom, and I have had no problems getting the plugs out. Occasionally he gets 56 Ford tanks. I have bought three from him over the years and am watching for him to get another one.

Well I did get my bolt out by using a 7/16 6 point socket. It came right out. I put the tank in the truck, fastened it done and went to put on the hoses and clamps. And found out the neck out of the tank was turned to the back of the cab and the fillet tub that goes thru the cab was in front of it. Shaking my head, I went back to the box it came from and found out it was the wrong tank! It was for a 55 to 59. So I took it back yesterday and got the 1st series tank. Will start all over tomorrow!

I have never seen a plug that didn't come out with a 7/16 6 point socket. I have tanks for both series on hand and they do look very much alike. But the fill on the first series is on the ditch side and the fill on the second series is on the driver side which of course makes them not interchangeable.

National Parts Depot sells them NPD, I went and picked mine up from them. They have about 4 Distribution depots around the country. 199.00

Rockauto.com has spectra tanks for 143.79 plus shipping
usually around 25.00

Sometimes you can find a 5% discount code online

...link...

Saying thanks to y'all for the advice to get a new tank. I have a 2-owner 1957 3100, and yes, it's been sitting a while. Replacing the tank (I'm sure the one that's in there is full - thanks, Dad), and getting the guck out of the single-barrel Rochester are some of the first projects on the way to "resurrected" status.

Special thanks to crenwelge for the eBay suggestion. It's more reasonable than I'd thought it'd be.