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#110599 11/20/2004 11:45 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 39
T
Junior Member
Junior Member
T Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 39
Hello everyone,
Has anyone ever used Greatstuff ( expanding foam) to seal open cavities underneath a truck to keep dirt and moisture from building up and causing all the damage we are fixing today.
Also how about paintable lifeime caulking on the seams?
Thanks Paul


Paul

When you do a good deed, get a receipt just incase HEAVEN is
like....the IRS
#110600 11/20/2004 3:27 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 47
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 47
Yikes...

I've got two responses to your question.

1. Every year I go through Hazcom and Health & Safety training for my job. The example they almost ALWAYS use to illustrate how consumer chemicals aren't required to put REALLY BAD stuff on their product labels is greatstuff foam.

There are several ways for evil chemicals to get into us. Most of this is common sense if you stop to think about it. Big stuff can be stopped by the propper gloves. Goggles are always a good idea. Large dust can be stopped by a disposable paper mask (if you wear it properly)... etc. Smaller particles? Respirators with particulate filters. Spray painting? Respirator with an Organic vapor filter. However, you shouldn't wear a respirator unless you've had a PFT (pulmonary functions test) to see if your body is up to the extra stresses of using your lungs to open and close valves.

Blah blah blah..

Anyway. I went through all that to get to this. If you request the M.S.D.S. (material safety data sheet) from the manufacturer of "Great Stuff" foam. They suggest a "supplied air" system. THAT'S FREAKIN' SCUBA GEAR! No respirator cart. can keep that stuff out of you. It's pretty bad stuff. Makes me angry that they aren't required to put that on the label in HUGE letters.

I'll stop this little rant before I get into the legal crap about how something gets tested "toxic" or "non-toxic"...

At long last
response #2

I bought a used F#$d to use as a winter salty roads driver. It looked fine and everything worked for a couple years. I later discovered that I was driving the masterpiece of a very clever sculptor. My rocker panels were almost entirely composed of Greatstuff with a skim coat of bondo. To his credit, they held up great for about 2 years, but after that first little hole... I had footlong chunks falling off the bottom of my fjord exploder for a few months.

Hey... the ground clearance keeps improving *grin*

-Joel


'52 3800 Panel
School bus conversion... Glass all around. (check the gallery!)

outside of a dog, a book is a man's best freind.
inside of a dog it's too dark to read.
-Groucho Marx
#110601 11/20/2004 3:52 PM
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,438
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,438
Here's my take. I think we make too big a deal about trying to preserve these beasts. Before you stone me.... Look how long these things have lasted. Most haven't had that good of care. What do you think the life would be if they were cared for all their lives as you are caring for them now? I just put a good coat of paint on it and let it go. Shoot the hose at it once in a while so mud, etc doesn't collect. Should last another few decades before someone else gets the pleasure. Another note on trying to seal water out. if you ever have a failure in that protection it will server to trap the water. That will undo your prevention many times over.
Dennis


40 Chevy 1/2 ton
#110602 11/20/2004 4:25 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,586
T
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,586
Filling the cavaties will lead to rust damage from water collecting there as the moisture will penetrate just about any barrier.
Here in the rust belt, modern vehicles don't rust nearly as much as they used to.The vehicle designers allow gaps in panels for drainage and air movement,that plus better paint and galvanized metal. I think you will be better off getting the proper paint finish inside and out to protect the metal.

#110603 11/20/2004 6:09 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 96
K
Member
Member
K Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 96
taz, Whenever I do a major restrotion on a boat, I drill a hole in the lowest point in the bottom of the hull to let the moisture drain from the foam. It doesn't cause a rust problem in boats because they're made from fiberglass. It is a different story in car or truck. The moisture is held within the porus foam and actually promotes rust over a period of time. I recommend a good rust barrier from behind and a good seam sealer for the joints. Also you can place drain holes in strategic places to allow any moisture from remaining in contact with the rear of metal panels. Good Luck

#110604 11/20/2004 6:20 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 336
F
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Posts: 336
I hope you install a plug in that hole you drilled!


Gord
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
#110605 11/20/2004 9:38 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 96
K
Member
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K Offline
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Posts: 96
Oops ! grin

#110606 11/21/2004 10:30 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 39
T
Junior Member
Junior Member
T Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 39
Thanks everyone. I will stick with paint and seam sealer.
Paul


Paul

When you do a good deed, get a receipt just incase HEAVEN is
like....the IRS
#110607 11/22/2004 3:39 PM
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 390
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 390
I see alot of vehicles up her with a good can or two of the stuff in it.Abuudy of mine visited recently and was telling me to use some expandable foam?stuff that 3m makes for auto body as an anti rattle and sound deadner.Anyone familiar with it?


1942 1\2 Ton
1951 1\2 Ton 55 willys cj-5
1954 and 59 Cushman Scooter
1960 Biscayne Sedan
1965 G/10 panel van
1966 C/30 Grizzly Motorhome
You know you're a 'Bolter when your daily driver is older than you are...
My progress pics

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