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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,780 Posts1,039,291 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 154 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 154 | Finally bit the bullet and ordered a harness for my 55.2 GMC 12 volt. Ordered the 12 circuit kit from Hot Rod Wires. Also purchased a new ignition, new headlight switch and new brake switch (figured it was smart to replace the main components).
I've read every post I can find on stovebolt and watched a few videos on youtube about installing harnesses. Thought I would ask the experts here for any thoughts/tip on the install.
Thanks in advance.
1955 GMC 100 Series 2
| | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | Tips: 1, Tie a string to the wire from the dome light. It helps to pull the new one back into place. 2, Use new grommets in the fire wall. 3, Under the dash sucks. Take your time. 4, Use new rubber "support tubes" on the tail lights. 5, Remove battery. Use an Ohm meter to check circuits. 6, Under the truck at the frame clamps, a bit of electricians tape or friction tape will help keep the wire safe in the clamp. 7, It all works if you take some time and a little care.
Steve H
| | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 Extreme Gabster | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 | Solder all terminals and cover with shrink wrap. | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 154 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 154 | Thanks guys. Already bought a new soldering gun and a bunch of shrink wrap. Going to learn how to use an ohm meter to check the circuits.
1955 GMC 100 Series 2
| | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | Another bolter mentioned this in another thread:
"After stuffing the under dash portion of the harness through the firewall (from the under hood side) it became apparent that the proper way to hook up the gauges and ignition was with them sitting on the floor board. You can easily connect everything. This is before the under hood stuff, such as voltage regulator are connected, so that you have enough slack in the harness to drop the gauges to the floor. Then you mount the gauges to the dash, with the speedometer and cluster each requiring 4 nuts. I learned I could mount them blindly by sitting in the driver's seat and reach under the dash, using a socket extension with appropriate socket. This way you don't have to torture your body."
Sounds better than doing it the hard way. Disconnect the battery and don't put any power to anything until you have ohmed each wire end to end. If you need help learning to use your meter, there are plenty of us here that can help. | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 154 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 154 | Thanks Deve. Any advice and instructions you can give on using an ohm meter / multimeter are appreciated. I have two and will gladly buy whatever I need to get the job done. I'm currently slowly pulling the old wires out and keeping track of things for the install. Great advice on the dash components and I'm planning on taking my time on those.
I've tried to YouTube the issue to no avail.
1955 GMC 100 Series 2
| | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | The multimeter is named such because you can measure AC voltage, DC voltage and Ohms with the same meter. Assuming it is a digital meter, (if I am wrong let me know), you can set the meter to the ohms scale and it will beep at you if you touch the two leads together. If you can set it to do that, that will be the most helpful. That beep means a very low ohm value which is what you are aiming for. So if you touch one lead to the end of one of the wires, and touch the other lead to the same wire on the other end, it should beep at you. This means the wire hasnt been cut or damaged, and it also means you have the right wire! In other words, in a large wiring bundle, you can put one lead (doesnt matter which) on one wire, then to FIND the other end of the wire, touch all of the wires until you get your beep. Easy Peasey right? This is of course wires only. If there is a light bulb or something else attached to it, all bets on the 'beep' are off. This is really the most elementary of the uses of a multimeter. There is MUCH more to it. If you have other questions, askem here. If I am wrong, others will be more than happy to correct me.  This does not help you get the correct wire to the correct place other than identifying the wire you are working with. You need the wiring diagram for that. | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 Extreme Gabster | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 | I made a set of leads with alligator clips that will reach from one end of a vehicle to the other with lead to spare.
To add to what Deve said, after you check continuity in a wire keep one lead clipped to the wire and touch the other to ground. There should be no continuity. | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 311 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 311 | Take your time, walk away for awhile if you get frustrated. | | |
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