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Joined: Mar 2010
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Renaissance Man
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I just received a new aluminum radiator. I want to paint it black in the areas that will be visible once installed just for cosmetic purposes.
My problem is, there is a silvery substance which comes off when you rub it with with your fingers.
Any idea what it is and what is the best way to either prepare it for paint or remove it prior to paint?
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Carl,

I just received a new aluminum radiator for my 1949 3100 1/2 ton truck. The silver coating you are referring to is a light coat of aluminum spray paint to prevent corrosion during shipping. I spoke to the a technical representative with Eastwood Company and was told in order to paint the radiator it would need to be cleaned with aluminum wheel cleaner. I used Mequires Hot Rims aluminum wheel cleaner. Lightly dry the sides and tanks and set it in the sun to dry the core. Use a 3M red scuff pad to scuff the tanks, sides and necks. Then use a clean dry cotton cloth (old t-shirt) with acetone to remove the dust, any oil or grease and residual aluminum paint. Let the radiator dry completely. I purchased the radiator black paint from Eastwood in the satin finish. They also have a gloss finish. I sprayed the complete radiator with 3 light coats (2 spray bombs). The tech advisor with Eastwood Company told me NOT to use any metal etching primer or the paint would peel. Just spray the radiator black directly onto the scuffed aluminum. Cleanliness and preparation are your friends here. Let the radiator dry for 3-5 days before install and this paint will harden and stay put. Painted mine and it turned out GREAT!! Hope this helps. If you have any more questions, let me know.

Tim


"Pay attention to the details! It ALWAYS pays off."

1949 Chevrolet 3100 Series 1/2 ton Pickup
1964 Chevrolet C10 (Ol' Yella) (SOLD)
1958 Chevrolet Biscayne 2 door (SOLD)
1970 VW Beetle
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Sir Searchalot
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Sounds goofy to me. Aluminum would not corrode during shipping. Why would spray paint come off? Carl, my woodsy friend, does it look like aluminum dust or paint? Were you huffing any silver paint lately and got some on your hands? I have purchased aluminum radiators and seen many more. They were always just raw aluminum. I don't paint them, I leave them aluminum. My motto on some items that don't need painted like slump block house, new cedar fence, aluminum is: Once you paint it, you will have to paint it again someday soon... and again. Wash it with soap and water and see. If it is localized, could it be flux, welding residue or filings? I think a raw aluminum radiator looks nice.
Highly irregular for a company to advertise, build, photograph, and then paint it some crappy silver, before shipping to a customer, that comes off on their hands and have to clean.
Also, Remind me not to buy one through Eastwood or your vendor.

Your Humble Genius (based on estimated I.Q.),
Bartamos


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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Renaissance Man
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Thanks Tim.
Whatever Bart. The stuff is definitely a coating. When you wipe your finger across it, it leaves an aluminum colored smudge which reminds me of anti-seize, on your finger. (I stopped huffing paint weeks ago. Thanks for asking.)
Carl

Last edited by 52Carl; 05/21/2015 8:34 PM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Originally Posted by bartamos
Sounds goofy to me. Aluminum would not corrode during shipping.

depends on where it is shipping from. I worked at a company that had some parts built in China and the salty sea air was pretty murderous on any exposed metal. sometimes the containers would show up dripping wet inside from humidity changes.

I do agree that it is probably rub-off from the aluminum rather than silver paint. I also worked a stretch machine for aluminum vent pipe when I was 18 and my hands/sleeves/coat/whatever I touched was that silver color after a few weeks.

aluminum doesnt hold onto paint very well even with proper prep, you can expect to touch it up pretty often.

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Sorry for asking again but is it localized or "all over"? It could actually be anti-seize if dissimilar threads are involved and it was a super quality company. As RJD indicates, the majority are from China, so who knows what that is. Something off whatever it was packed near. I'm going to guess manufacturing residue. Hope it comes off easily. Glad you are safe and well.
Aluminum radiators are available with an anodized finish (never have to paint it and adds corrosion resisitance). Many colors available, including black.
On the "pro" side of what you are doing: Aluminum heat sinks are anodized black for better heat dissipation so you are on the right track for better "performance".


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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I just got done removing the coating with acetone and a lot of rubbing. It is definitely a sprayed on product.
Carl


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I would email the vendor and ask why there was a faux finish on it that was not disclosed. Faux real!


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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Bart,

It is a sprayed on finish to prevent corrosion. I specifically called the tech line at Eastwood to find out what I needed to do to clean off this coating and paint the radiator and they were familiar with it. The rest is history. My radiator came out GREAT after following their instructions. Can't battle with experience. Eastwood tech advisers obviously know what they are talking about. Good luck with your radiator Carl!

Tim


"Pay attention to the details! It ALWAYS pays off."

1949 Chevrolet 3100 Series 1/2 ton Pickup
1964 Chevrolet C10 (Ol' Yella) (SOLD)
1958 Chevrolet Biscayne 2 door (SOLD)
1970 VW Beetle
Joined: Dec 2000
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Yeah, Tim has it right Carl. Lacquer thinner will work too. The scuffing is really important for mechanical adhesion. Use the scuff pad so as not to introduce scratches.

I think why they do that is alum after welding can have discolorations and splotchy areas and they want to put their best foot forward and make it look uniform. I wonder if it would also be good to use a pressure washer (take it to the carwash) and really get the fins and hard to get areas with soap and water. Rinse clean, dry WELL, then Naptha based (PPG DX-330) or a good metal prep cleaner. What a pain! ANY small place you dont get scuffed and thoroughly cleaned will not hold paint for very long. Good luck!


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
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Tim, As I said, I have purchased several and have never seen that yet. I receive them in good, simi-shinny, raw aluminum condition (they were all made off shore). I understand what Eastwood said. If I ever get one like that I will send it back and either get my money back or have THEM clean it. When you start doing their work it leads them to believe it's OK to spray it with some crap that you have to remove, and have to call them because they never mentioned it and if you mess something up they will say no to warranty because you used the wrong stuff, did it wrong, were not careful, etched it, made it separate at some seam, etc. (some are epoxied, some all weld). My radiators "come out great" right out of the box. We have different outlooks as a customer. It's OK.
Deve, if you take it to the car wash, you will close up all the fins with the pressure. They bend if you just look at them. You would ruin it in 2 seconds.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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yeah, well, don't gorilla the job. But yeah, thats EXACTLY what they are doing Ken. That decision has already been made. Welcome to 2015 where we Americans get to do even MORE work for free. Its the free trade agreements and the politicians that are currently in charge. Dont get me started, but that's not the issue. The issue is Carl has to get this radiator ready to install. Focus. LOL!


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
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The thread was already in danger of being shut down for the bickering. Let's not add political content to it.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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As the OP of this thread, I appreciate all of the input thus far and I thank everyone for it. I hope that my "Thanks Tim." "Whatever bartamos" comment wasn't perceived as testy. I consider bart a friend and I try to sneak brief, forbidden off topic jabs at him to keep his ticker ticking.
As to the finish applied to my new aluminum radiator, if I did not want to paint it black, the finish would never have been an issue. I just wanted a sound base for the black paint to adhere to. I have that now.
Thanks again.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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WHATEVER CARL! wink


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
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The Think Tank
More info and tips at Deve's Technet
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cletis,

Sorry if I caused any uproar. I was just passing on advice I received from what I believe to be a vendor knowledgeable about there products. It worked for me, so I passed on the information. I've used Eastwood radiator paint in the past on brass /copper radiators with good results, so I gave them a chance on the aluminum radiators. We'll see how well it holds up. This "bickering" is why some of us hesitate to post any comments or advice on this sight, and why some of us say "we're out of here." Experience with different products and reporting what we find should not be ridiculed, but embraced with questions and acceptance. If the product the vendor sells is not "up to par", then I'm sure with enough feedback, none of us will purchase it!

Tim

Last edited by fixit1958; 05/22/2015 3:13 AM.

"Pay attention to the details! It ALWAYS pays off."

1949 Chevrolet 3100 Series 1/2 ton Pickup
1964 Chevrolet C10 (Ol' Yella) (SOLD)
1958 Chevrolet Biscayne 2 door (SOLD)
1970 VW Beetle
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,308
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Tim, your info was spot on.
bart and I are the "Bad Boys" here.
I put that in quotes because I don't believe either of us were actually bickering, just poking fun at each other and/or sharing what each of us have seen and have a problem with (the manufacturers).
I will attempt to droll myself down a couple of turns so as to not offend those sensitive to irreverence.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Carl,

Not a problem. If we can't have some fun with this, then I guess we need to "take our ball and go home." Glad it all worked out for you!

Tim


"Pay attention to the details! It ALWAYS pays off."

1949 Chevrolet 3100 Series 1/2 ton Pickup
1964 Chevrolet C10 (Ol' Yella) (SOLD)
1958 Chevrolet Biscayne 2 door (SOLD)
1970 VW Beetle
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,399
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Tim, I wouldnt be too concerned about offending people. Its the internet. Even people in Kansas get it. If you have valuable information to impart on someone having a problem, just be a man and spit it out. You have done that, definitely one of the good guys. Keep it up! smile


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
In the Stovebolt Gallery
The Think Tank
More info and tips at Deve's Technet
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 863
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Deve,

I appreciate the words of confidence! If something works and I have experience with a product I won't hesitate to give my advice and knowledge. I have never been known to hold back!

Thanks again,

Tim


"Pay attention to the details! It ALWAYS pays off."

1949 Chevrolet 3100 Series 1/2 ton Pickup
1964 Chevrolet C10 (Ol' Yella) (SOLD)
1958 Chevrolet Biscayne 2 door (SOLD)
1970 VW Beetle

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