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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,162 Posts1,057,056 Members48,463 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 19 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 19 | My 41 suburban did run like a top. It has a YF carter that is not working right even after a rebuild. I have many other truck of the same era with W1 carters that run flawless. I would like to use a w1 but the bolt spacing is different for the manifold. Do any w1 have a wide bolt flange or is a w2 an option? 1937 Chevy 1/2-Ton Pickup x31940 Chevy 1/2-Ton Pickup1940 Chevy 1 1/2-Ton COE1941 Chevy 1/2-Ton Pickup1941 Chevy 1 1/2-Ton COE1941 Chevy 1/2-Ton Suburban1946 Chevy 1 1/2-Ton COE1971 Chevy 1/2-Ton PickupIn the Stovebolt Gallery | | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,770 Carburetion specialist | | Carburetion specialist Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,770 | Steve - what are your symptoms? Possibly there is a different issue.
Carter DID produce a W-2, but, while technically a production model, as it was used for a few months on the 1931 Nash; it was really an experimental model. Even if you did find one (haven't seen one for sale for years other than from that grumpy old Missouri hillbilly), it has the very early W series technology which had issues. Also, since they are exceptionally scarce, they tend to be fairly pricey. If all of the above has not talked you out of looking for one, call me; but better to figure out why the YF is not performing to your satisfaction.
Jon. Good carburetion is fuelish hot airThe most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!The Carburetor Shop | | | | | Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 19 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 19 | Hello Jon,
It will idle, but not smooth. No acceleration, seems like a lack of fuel.
No points or condenser. Pertronics equipped. Plugs and wires good. Ran great before winter. Rebuilt carb still runs like crap.
I guess I should pull it apart again?
1937 Chevy 1/2-Ton Pickup x31940 Chevy 1/2-Ton Pickup1940 Chevy 1 1/2-Ton COE1941 Chevy 1/2-Ton Pickup1941 Chevy 1 1/2-Ton COE1941 Chevy 1/2-Ton Suburban1946 Chevy 1 1/2-Ton COE1971 Chevy 1/2-Ton PickupIn the Stovebolt Gallery | | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,770 Carburetion specialist | | Carburetion specialist Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,770 | Steve - before throwing rocks at the carb, try a set of points and a new condenser.
I won't try to talk you out of it permanently, but when having engine issues and a pertronix installed, ALWAYS check that first. Also, upgrade the generator to an alternator if you have not already done do. Generators cannot provide the constant voltage electronics like.
Let us know.
Jon. Good carburetion is fuelish hot airThe most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!The Carburetor Shop | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,305 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,305 | Jon makes a good point about engine problem diagnosis strategy. Always do the carb last unless it is spewing gas everywhere. They are a chunk of metal with a bunch of holes and a diaphragm and a check ball or two. As simple as they are, it is difficult to open one up and say "Ah ha, there's the trouble". In my experience I am more liable to do more harm than good when digging into the carb. That's why I save it for last. And usually the carb wasn't the problem to begin with. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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