The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Re: What did you get done on your 'Bolt today?

Worked on the passenger side vent window assembly. The pivot point up top was broken, had to weld a small washer to what was left. turned out decent and it works! Assembled to check fitment of the repair, then took it all apart again to clean and paint.

Took the Suburban out of hibernation today.

The 8+ year old 6v Optima battery cranked the engine (no choke) for 15 seconds. Then, I set the choke and cranked the engine - it started immediately.

After warming it up, I set the 2-barrel GMC Holley AA1 (similar to the 2100 and 2110) carburetor on the 1960 261 engine. While the truck was in hibernation last winter, I remembered that I had richened the adjustable jets last summer, but I had not re-adjusted the mixture settings. So, I quickly adjusted the mixture settings and went for a ride. The engine ran strong and smooth, and the truck purred quietly in its first 2015 short trip.

I'll most likely be driving the Suburban to the ATHS York, PA gathering in late May.

Gauges have been redecaled and getting read to weld up a couple of stress cracks on the dash before paint.
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a512/doyleosborne/Dash%20repair/IMG_2635_zps4cjlzeje.jpg

Got the lowered trans crossmember out of the sub, cleaned the road grime off of it, took the lowering plates off, repainted it black and will try to get it back into its stock location this afternoon. Finally warm enough to get some work done here in WI.Ordered rotor and hub as.sys from Speedway.


Weeds

Been driving the "Burb" some and have noticed the smell of antifreeze several times. So, last week I took off the rad cap and found the rad to be shy about 3/4 gal. Could not see any leaks in hoses or the new aluminum radiator. Had other commitments so I had to close her up and forget it for a week. Kept thinking blown head gasket for the whole week. Last night I went and dug out my pressure tester and pumped the system up to 17lbs. I heard a hissing sound and upon closer inspection found a rotten rubber heater close off fitting on the water pump. I cobbled up a replacement out of 3/4 hose and a plug. Pressured the system up again and it slowly bled down. No hissing but found a steady drip from the lower rad hose and the cobbled up plug. Tightened up the clamps and pumped it up again. 17lbs and held for 5 minutes. Problem solved for now, I hope. Have to find time to pull the A/C compressor to remove the water pump fitting and replace it with a pipe plug.

Be careful pressurizing your cooling/heating system for long periods of time. The 1948 system was designed for 0psi (maybe up to 4psi in large trucks).

Good find on the hose. Remember that the coolant level should hold steady at about 2 inches under the filler cap.

Tim, it's a modern 350 V8 with a new aluminum radiator. Would never put high pressure to a stock system.

Sorry, Martin

Worked on pounding out some dents and ripples on my passenger side front fender... lots of work to get that smooth again. Gonna be a little while

I installed duo 3/8" stainless steel fuel lines.

I stripped and painted drivers side inner fender and bell housing.

I forgot to mention it but I pulled the transmission out of the Suburban Wednesday and took it to the shop in Fort Worth Thursday. I'm expecting a call tomorrow. I hope it's good news.

Picked up my new de-arched front main leaves from St. Louis Spring Co.
Hope to get em in and the truck back on the ground tonight.

Put different tires on the fifty so I could stop chasing the dog away with the air hose. I did some dolly work and a lot of sanding on the front gravel panel. I also "placed" the steering column/box and jacked up the 235 and replaced the tranny cross member I got from another member in the fifty-two. (Thanks Gary)

Tim

Put new felts and rubber on the drivers side wing window

Got the transmission crossmember back in its stock location. Engine and trans going back in next. Have all the parts for the S10 IFS to go on the Danforth crossmember. Waiting for another couple of 70 degree days to keep going.Always at the mercy of the weather in WI.Hope its good on Saturday for the spring Jefferson car show and swap meet in Jefferson WI.



Weeds

I got both rear fenders patched, leaded, primed and hope to paint them tomorrow.

Got the 37 from the storage garage and its home to stay and going to let the garage go since I do not need it now,going to find the source of the rattle in the motor and hope to save it but I do have two other motors that can go in. Battery did not charge up on the way home so I changed the location of the charge sense wire from the battery post of the alternator to the battery post on the solenoid,got the battery on the charger and since it did not charge up quickly I hope the battery was just very low and not bad. While I have the floor out I am going to modify it so it does not have to come completely out to change the battery.

Mike, you've come a long way on this. Looks like some crafty work on those patch panels. I think I saw the Grand Ole Opry in one of your pictures.

Been having troubles with various hoses the past couple of weeks. The water pump on my 350 has a molded-in heater hose connection instead of a screw-in. PO had painted the block with red paint which caused the home made heater block-off hose to slide off. Made a new one and clamped it in place. Now the cheapo hose clamps won't stay tight enough to hold pressure. Every time I drive it I come back in and tighten clamps on the hose as well as the 2 radiator hoses. Anyone got a solution or a parts house idea for heavy duty hose clamps?

I don't think you will find anything that works better than the original wire style hose clamps. Unless it's the ford constant pressure type. Both can be bought on line as well as some supply stores.

Dropped the pan and checked a couple rod bearings and they are scored and the uppers are down to copper with only 10,000 miles,crank is not hurt so new bearings will be going in.

tested tach
still need to work out some bugs

DADS50 I like your gauge cluster. Looks almost factory.

I may copy it

Dave

Straightened out the oil pan,I really glued it on the last time I had it off and almost ruined it getting it off.

I color sanded my door today:

http://ssrjim.wordpress.com

All of the brake cylinders are honed and painted. Realized that the brake lines will have to be changed out.

We finally tested whether or not the engine would move or if it was frozen since it has sat since '69. Filled cylinders with Marvel last June.

Well, SHE TURNED! With very little effort last night the engine turned and all of the valve springs move up and down as they should.

Next steps, verify the oil pump and water pump. May have this thing on the road in a few weeks!

Justin,

That's a great looking project. With the condition of the headlights and grill you're miles ahead already.

That's great you're making progress CJ.
I don't want to rain on your parade but watch out for broken valve springs once you get the engine fired up.
I had a VW Bug that had sat for quite a few years and after getting the engine fired up some of the valve springs let go.
It was down to the fact some of them had been held in the compressed position for so long and had taken a 'set'.

'Scuse the pun but I just wanted to give you the 'heads up'.
I'm just trying to save you any heartache....

Good luck.

Thanks Jim and JB50!

Thanks for the "heads up" JB50!

Borrowing a leak down gauge today, so I will be checking the compresison this weekend.

Put the coil springs into the S-10 upper and lower control arms for the Danforth crossmember. Having clearance issues using stock exhaust msnifolds hitting the boxing plates. Will prolly have to go with some block hugger headers to solve the clearance problems.
Going slow but it IS going.


Weeds

I got the transmission back in the Suburban tonight. Nearly wore me out crawling under there and out so many times. I think I'm older than I once was.

I addressed a driveline vibration @ 60/70mph i've had for a wee while now.
As usual these things seem to manifest themselves right at the freeway cruising 'sweet spot'.

I re-balanced both rear wheels,one of which I noticed had thrown weights and re-set the pinion angle,I made a 1/2" packer for the rear trans mount to raise the trans tailshaft and re-adjusted the lower link bars.

First impressions are good but will find out for sure today when I go to Glasgow,about 25 miles at freeway speeds.

Stay out of trouble in the big city John.

Shutoff the hot water valve to the heater and swapped the 180 thermostat out with a 160. The ole 216 is ready, bring on the warm season.

I completed the padding for my bench seat and pickup some vinyl:

https://ssrjim.wordpress.com

slowly but surely..

image

The 'big smoke' holds no fears Jim,i'm a city boy originally.
Anyway,I like mixing it up on the freeway with the truck,although changing lanes can be tricky as there's usually someone sitting level with me giving me the thumbs up,at least I hope that's what they're doing!
People here don't usually see 65 year old vehicles scooting along at freeway speeds.

I did 120+ miles yesterday and the dang vibration is still there,it's fine up to 55mph but any higher and all h*ll breaks loose.
I can drive through it but driving at 80+ just takes it to a higher less noticeable frequency but the consequences of a UJ failure are scary not to mention it guzzles gas at those speeds!

By coincidence I was chatting to a fella with similar issues.
One of his UJs needle bearings had degenerated into dust in less than 10,000 miles.
Turns out is was a badly machined joint where the grease hole hadn't been machined correctly.

I'm headed into the garage to pull the shaft and have a looksee.
I'll check the pinion shaft bearing too as I noticed a little oil spray from it and double check my angles too.

Jock, out of balance drive shaft? Just an idea.