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Fixing the old truck

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#1090025 03/07/2015 4:01 PM
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 176
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Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 176
Getting ready to put the cab back on my 41GMC COE and I'd like to get all new cab mounts and springs. I'm assuming that I can use the kit from a pickup and will just have some left over? I'd just call the company and ask, but the last time I did they told me to talk to"Spanky".

Joined: Jun 2011
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Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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One can also use rubber grader blade material(for snow plows) which comes 1" x 4" around here, might have to search around a bit, hydraulic shops carry it around here.


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Mar 2013
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Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 176
Are you talking about just bolting directly to the frame with the rubber in between? If so, I was thinking about doing this but the frame flexes so much it seems like it would eventually damage the cab?

Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 584
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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The COE cab mounts the same to the cab 'riser' as the 1/2T cab bolts to the frame. Just use the smaller truck kit. You don't actually have left-overs. Same mounting holes and bolts as the COE... just different sills.



When I yield to Him, it's amazing how peaceful and enjoyable life is meant to be.

1947 Chevy COE
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 176
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Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 176
Thanks Tomcoe. I have since figured out the bolt lengths and rubber padding for the front mounts. I did not realize the back sat on a wood strip. Just hadn't got into it that far. I have it bolted back on now and will replace with grade 8 as I clean up and paint.


Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

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