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#1096836 04/11/2015 4:02 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 319
P
Shop Shark
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 319
The 9/16 bolts that go through the upper hinge into the door go through a sheet metal "panel" with three holes cut in it, one for each bolt. But a 9/16 socket won't fit through that hole, which means the bolt can't be tightened down.

What am I missing? (And how did I get those bolts out at disassembly??)


A VW guy trying his hand at a '59 LB fs. Lots to learn, but it's about the journey.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
What truck you working on?


1937 Chevy Pickup
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1952 Chevy Panel
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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C
'Bolter
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Exactly....what year are we referring to? I just finished restoring hinges on a '50 and did not find any issues.



Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
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Shop Shark
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Sorry.
'59.
And now I'm wondering if the bolts tighten down on that panel, as opposed to going through to seat against the hinge wing. I see what looks like an indentation on the panel that suggests the built-in washer may have seated there.


A VW guy trying his hand at a '59 LB fs. Lots to learn, but it's about the journey.
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 434
R
Shop Shark
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 434
Just took my doors off this weekend. First one took 4 hours or longer, second one took 20 minutes. Live and learn.

There are three bolts for each hinge, 6 total for each door.

For each hinge, there are two bolts that you get to from opening the door, they bolt into captured nuts on the other side. The third bolt is inside the hinge pocket. On the top hinge, the third bolt also turns in from the cockpit side, but the bend of the hinge keeps you from getting a socket to it.

There is a cover panel held on with about 5 Phillips sheet metal screws in the cab on the kick panel (vertically up from the foot well). Take that off and you can get a wrench on this third bolt, use a closed end wrench, and you can tighten it. Removing this panel also allows access to the captured nuts if they happen to turn free due to rusted sheet metal (mine did).

On the bottom hinge the inside bolt comes through from the fender side! I had my fenders off so I don't know if you can get too it from under the truck.

I can take pics and provide more info if you need, but taking that kick plate cover off is critical.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by R-Bo; 04/14/2015 2:18 AM.

R-Bo

1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction)
1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 434
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Shop Shark
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Hey VW guy, there is nothing on these trucks like trying to thread a new throttle cable through the pan and fishing it out of the pedal cluster whilst upside down with your head in the floor board.

Or having a case stud strip out and the thing leak oil all the time and you have a complete rebuild to fix....or having a fat guy sitting in the back passenger seat grounding out your battery and leaving you stranded in the middle of no where....well, they both have king pins!!!

Assuming you are an old school VW guy, you know what I am talking about....

Welcome aboard.


R-Bo

1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction)
1966 GMC 305V6 in the family

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