The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts New disk brake kit for 2 ton

Hey Jim --- what type of lines are you running? Conventional?...stainless?...

Using copper nickel.

Was in the process of modifying the vac lines to the 2 speed (master mounting bracket interfered with the modification I made for the trans cross member)when the tool arrived So I used it to do the ends of the 3/8" steel line to the vacuum switch. Put a dab of grease on the steel and formed them great, not much more effort.

Working my way through the lines. Doing as many in the truck where possible. Going good.

Well, the brake system is installed.
All the lines were reflared with the new tool. Had to replace a couple where the first bend was too close to the fitting or the new tool. It is great to work with, even under the truck.
System has been vacuum bleed. The power booster works.
The system doesn't feel right yet, but I will do another bleed. One man style with a hose in a jar of brake fluid.
Because there are high spots in the line (higher than the master and the bleeders) I want to push more volume through than my small vac pump will move. It was sufficient to get all the calipers and cylinders full, but not convinced it got all the air. Would like to pressure bleed but just don't feel like making an adapter for the big plastic master.
To do this, I'm going to put the cab back on. Much easier if you actually have a brake pedal.

I had issues with mine until I pulled the rear apart and rebuilt the rear wheel cylinders... Probably not your issue, but wanted to through that out!

Yeah, I did them a while ago, but they haven't been tested. The rear shoes are probably way out too. Just gave them the Initial adjust on assembly and have been using the hand brake while moving it around so they are likely seated now.

Hey Jim...How's it shaping up? And are you running your fluid through an adjustable proportioning valve?

I have made a number of mods to make the kit work on my 1.5 ton axle and so far all looks good. Still need to get started on the rest of the system, but have hopes it will be mostly plug & play.

BTW...Randy has said he can fab his kit for either size truck (1.5 or 2 ton)since it is just a matter of bolt size differences, so now there is hope for many more of these old vehicles in need of real stopping power.

Got a little sidetracked when I put the cab on.
Put the steering back in, but had to paint it first.
Then finish the steering wheel, running boards so I can climb in, gap seals. ...............
You know how that goes.
Anyway the pedal is in and I plan on bleeding them tomorrow.

Cool! But we all want to see some pix! Sounds like you are getting close bud.

Ok. added some pictures to the album.

http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/jsdesign2/library/

This is insane!
More fitting leaks.
There are 4 brass T's in the system, 3 original to the truck, 1 new. Every one has 1 leaking fitting. 1 of the 2 brass unions has 1 leaking side and both of the rear wheel cylinder brass banjo blocks leak at the line fitting.
That is 26% of the fittings.

Very little movement when trying to retighten.
All the tubing nuts are new (probably off shore).
The hydraulic flaring makes beautiful flares every time.

Every fitting was installed the same way - tighten the new flare down, back off the nut a turn or so and retighten.

The copper/nickle tubing was made by 2 different companies.

I'm open for any suggestions
I will also post under driveline for more specific brake input.

Jim, Sorry your having troubles. I have had a few lines sent to me recently from the parts store that were copper/nickel and I have to say that they seem light weight to me and I thought that over tightening them may make them leak. I haven't had this happen, but I had the thought that it could....

I haven't re-flaired any of the copper flare lines so I can't say that I have any real world info on this subject. Just a hunch!

Good luck and I can appreciate how frustrating this is.

Try when you flare the line not to completely crush the flare on the last step. In the double flare if you leave a small space between the layers then that space can be used to conform to irregularities in the seat and tube nut at final assembly.

Also, I might not tighten, loosen, and retighten the line. You want the tube flare to form to irregularities in the seat, do that once without a chance to shift and then trying to form yet again in a slightly new position.

Old brass brake fittings can be troublesome, inspect the seats for damage and replace or figure a way to recut the seat.

Grigg

Grigg, that is a good point about the compression of the flare. Using the new hydraulic flaring tool it takes it takes so little effort to form that by the time you feel the resistance they are pretty flat. Learning curve.

I wondered as much when you mentioned it was hydraulic.

Hope that helps,

Grigg

This is a great thread on the disc conversion kit. I enjoyed reading all the discussion.

For any who may have missed it...Randy is now fabbing these kits to fit 1-1/2 ton trucks as well as the 2 tonners.

The only differences are...
A.) the 2 ton uses 9/16" bolts everywhere while the 1.5's are all 1/2"

B.) the calipers need to mount in front of the axle instead of behind it to clear steering linkage.
(NOTE...this also means swapping left and right calipers so that the bleeders are on top)

Hey Jim --- How goes the flaring? Have you taken care of all those leaks yet?

Also...any new pix of the installation?

Had to push the pause button.
Got another project in and have to put a little preliminary work into that before I can go back to the truck.
Have to restore a*Scrips* 1940 marine engine, straight 6, 512 cid, dual ignition, 220hp 1200+lbs.
Have to get it torn down and evaluated so the parts search can begin while I'm working on the 2 ton. Took it out of the boat this week.

1940's...Sounds interesting That's a lot of CI's for a six. What kind'a boat did it come out of? Garwood or some such?

The boat is a 1911 Miller 30' launch (Canoe Boat).
This is the 3rd engine in it's history.
This engine has been mistreated by some very bad "mechanics".
Long stroke 2400RPM.

Sounds gorgeous! Like old trucks, I'm a sucker for the lines on many early wooden boats.

I am very interested in disc brake conversion on 1-1/2 ton. Let us know when its ready. Also, life is much easier where bleeding brakes is concerned with Speed Bleeders. I have them on my 1/2 ton and I will never go back.

This past weekend, I watched an episode of Power Nation where Ian took a disc brake hub from whatever was a good fit with his desired bolt pattern, then just took a cardboard template and cut himself a bracket to hold the calipers, and woohoo!

I know it takes longer than a TV show, but the idea was sound. Start with a large truck rotor readily available and with our bolt pattern (not sure if that exists) and just go to town. I WILL do this upgrade when it comes available.

Tango
A few pics for those who like their inliners to float

http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/jsdesign2/media/20141211_131802_zps1ujzidzj.jpg.html
http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/jsdesign2/media/20141211_131704_zpsomqqwljq.jpg.html
http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/jsdesign2/media/100_1325_zpsgb2reijt.jpg.html

Wowser! That's one mighty hefty six! But are you sure you don't want to stuff it into one of your truck projects? That puppy must put out some serious torque.

Sweet. Thanks for the pix.

Bump?

Haven't had much other interest. Maybe two other people. Not quite enough to make another run at it!

i am interested in doing the conversion to disc brakes i have a 1949 chevy 4400 1.5 ton that i just acquired i have looked at tons of posts where can i acquire more information about purchasing the kit that rdomeck is building and or whom ever else is making one for the 1949 1.5 ton trucks. my number is 2517098264

Howdy All --- My kit is now installed on my ton-and-a-half and ready for hoses. For anyone running stock rims, it is a piece-o-cake. Just flip the brackets to the front and swap the calipers left to right to keep the bleeders up on top.

If you have converted to 19.5" 10 lug Chevy rims (like mine)...it will work but require some adjustments. I had to grind off the outer edge of both calipers in order to clear the rims. Good news is those big Ford units have a lot of extra metal.

Here is a pic of them installed...

brake kit https://flic.kr/p/s21xgE

Thanks for a highly valued upgrade Randy!

Great work Tango.

As I said, the brake project was put on hold by the Scripps engine. The plan was to strip and evaluate the engine and then go back to the 2 ton while I located and ordered parts.
That schedule was interrupted by a medical procedure. Had to have an artery in my lower leg cleared out with a lazer. Procedure was simple but was restricted to not lifting, carrying, dragging etc more than 10 lbs for a while. That includes getting up and down on a creeper and crawling under the dash.
Did some painting of misc. parts and bench work and it was time to go back on the engine.
Will get back to the brakes soon.

You probably have this covered,but when tightening a flare fitting,it'll sometimes set off to one side a little,and that makes it leak. I run it down very gently,and wiggle the tube as I tighten it;I can feel the tube "find center" as I go-the nut will "free up",that is it'll "loosen" a little each time I wiggle the line. When it stops freeing up,go ahead and tighten it. I haven't had one leak,even old/worn lines,in many years.
If you don't mind my asking,how much is it costing to put together a 1-1/2 or 2 Ton disc Brake set up? That's something I'll be seriously considering once I get the Cummins/NV4500 installed in my truck.
Speed

Didn't look at the records, but add 1K to the price of the kit for the over the counter parts.

The fabricated parts will be around $1600 if they are made one order at a time. I haven't had much interest in making the kits so I do not plan to make a bunch of parts and have them setting around for years!

Maybe I'll do a eBay add and see if that gets any other interest...

Is your caliper bracket 3/8 plate? And is it hot rolled steel?
Thanks, Eric

hey jim
do you think that conversion would work on a 1957 3600 ????

Can you please supply me with the part numbers of the rotors, caliper,and master cylinder/booster that people are installing with these kits. Thanks !

Noonan, Do you have any questions about the kit?

Thanks,

Hi Randy, I may be interested in purchasing one of your kits in the future. Although for starters I am planning to upgrade the master/booster and run drums all around. I was wondering which master cylinder and booster a guy should buy to replace the old HydroVac system with ? I am handy enough in the shop to create a mount and linkages that will work !

Hi Randy, I have some questions about the kit, what caliper and rotor do they use?