The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Driveshaft for open yoke 3100

I have searched for an answer but cannot find what I'm looking for. I have a '53 3100 that I am converting to an open yoke. It has a SM420 trans in it. It is a short box truck. Can I run a telescopic driveshaft from trans to rearend, or will I need to incorporate a carrier bearing due to the somewhat long distance between trans yoke and rearend gear yoke? If anyone has experience with this situation I would appreciate any input. Thanks in advance.

The factory did it from 1955-59 so you should be fine.

you will need to find a rear end from a second series truck like 55 to 59 it will bolt right on the rear end in the truck. you will need the front of the rear end and internals and yoke to replace the torque tube style. the ring gear will be ok or use the ring gear and pinion out of the later rear end the gear ratio is on a tag on the rear end check the spider gears and axles for wear the axles will swap also match all the parts they have been running together check the axle brgs they are most likely shot use the spacer on the axles u are going to run the end play is critical. get a manual for your truck check the lash on the ring and pinion just follow the directions in the manual. you will have to take off the rear end cover on the back. you can get a slip joint drive shaft and u joints from the drive line shop to match up on the new set up no carrier brg needed that's the expensive part find a rear end at the junk tard they are getting scarce but you can find em.on the transmission get a second series tailpeice and yoke from a later sm 420 it will bolt right on. napa will have the gaskets, brgs and seals needed i just did this on my 54 it will cost ya about a grand but well worth it you will then need to weld the rear end in line when you get everything lined up use some heavy 3/8" or 1/2" by 2 1/2" big flat stock cut some pieces and weld the rear end and the spring shackles into 1 peice. the torque tube held the rear end in line before it will just flop down. use 7018 rod do not mig weld it use some stick rod it will be much stronger with the 7018 not no 6011 or 6013 or tig weld it if you can use some er 7075s or similar filler. bevel the flat stock to get a good fit to the parts.smake sure it is darn clean before welding wire wheel it clean and use come contact cleaner or acetone. good luck it's not thas hard as it seems if you are inclined