The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Brake lines near exhaust issue

I replaced the master cylinder and all the brake lines on my 55.2. However, the junction behind the master cylinder would only go one one way, thus leaving one of the lines pointed at the passenger side (originally it was pointed at the driver side so no problem) and so I had to bend it back towards the driver side (routes to front driver wheel). Now, the brake line is close to the exhaust, like an inch away. Is this a problem or can the brake line withstand the heat? Any thoughts on how to fix it? Thought about putting a washer on but wasn't sure.

http://flic.kr/p/rve5yi

http://flic.kr/p/rv6zMy

Isn't that a banjo fitting which can be oriented in any of 360 degrees?
Carl

Wow, you are right. I just went out and loosened the outer nut and swiveled it. Remarkable how that little thing has been holding me up. Thanks a ton Carl. Got the lines all installed and started to bleed them. Will finish tomorrow. I've got a few drips so I will also need to tighten everything up.

Don't use Teflon or pipe dope right?

You are correct, no tape and no pipe dope.

When I install new brake lines, I very gradually tighten them up in order to feel the flare end of the brake line squish to match the contour of the fitting. I then loosen it and re-tighten it. You should notice that it takes less turning the second time.
Doing it this way will prevent over-tightening and stripping anything, or galling the flats where the wrench contacts the nut.
Carl

Carl,

What you describe is what was described to me by the vendor when I used all new stainless-steel lines and all new brass fitting.

"I very gradually tighten them up in order to feel the flare end of the brake line squish to match the contour of the fitting. I then loosen it and re-tighten it. You should notice that it takes less turning the second time."

The only thing I did differently, is that I loosened and re-tightened, 3 times - gently.

No leaks in 11 years.

You are absolutely correct about the SS flares. They are tough to squish.

Thanks guys for the help.

This brake system replacement has been a nightmare. I thought it was going to be pretty straightforward, but I've had so many problems that I've all but given up. Got all the lines run pretty easily (two small areas to fix later), the MC bench bled and installed in no time, but then the problems hit. First was the banjo bolt (which I had never heard of in my life until this post); then I put on new crush washers, but they leaked; the main line leaked "up" the fitting. Replaced the entire line with a steel line from another manufacturer, tightened per the advice above, and it is NOT leaking. I annealed? the old copper washers and put them back on; now only the front washer is leaking just ever so slightly, so tomorrow I'm going to give it another crank with the wrench and see if that will solve the problem. I still need to put the brakes under load to see if there are any more leaks, and I'm praying there isn't.

Thanks again to all of you who continue to help a rookie like me out. This truck was my father in laws and he left it to my wife, and since his passing she can't sit in the truck without tearing up. There's nothing I want more than to get it running and take her for a cruise.